1987 Turbo RX-7 Flood/Stall
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Just picked up this FC 1987 Turbo RX-7, really excited to start building this car up. Here's a list of things that are done with it/have been done by previous owners. It actually won't start unless a switch is being played with on/off. After that, she won't stay on without keeping foot on throttle or else she will die down (have not tried to see if she will stall out) After a good 2-4 Min of Throttle she will stay on and idle at about 2k RPM. After turning her off, she will now not start. Tried multiple times to turn her on since you have to play with the switch, she only cranks but won't turn over. Probably flooded. This is my second car & first rotary & turbo'd car so I am very lost but have some knowledge and catch up quickly. I need help with what to check and where to start. Something to add is that, after doing then unflooding procedure, we actually took out the EGI COMP & The INJ relays out, took out the spark plugs & saw that they were indeed wet and dryed out the spark plug holes with a rag. Put the car on a jump & it started up no problem. After that she wouldn't start again. Gauge also am not sure if reading properly
Thank you & heres a list.
Needs a tune
Boost Leak/Exhuast Leak
Has turbo lag
Meagan Coilover's.
Aluminum radiator.
350z rims.
Jdm engine bay wire harness
3' down pipe.
t28 turbo.
Meagen mufler.
Huge electric fan.
Gready blow off valve.
Rc racing injectors.
Fresh jdm block.
Thank you & heres a list.
Needs a tune
Boost Leak/Exhuast Leak
Has turbo lag
Meagan Coilover's.
Aluminum radiator.
350z rims.
Jdm engine bay wire harness
3' down pipe.
t28 turbo.
Meagen mufler.
Huge electric fan.
Gready blow off valve.
Rc racing injectors.
Fresh jdm block.
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After asking the actual guy who put the switch in this is what he responded with. He also told me that having to hold the car at idle until warm was normal for him as well. He said just hold it at idle for a good minute then when warm she'll idle on her own. When warm and car is off she should start right back up no problem. Also there was a coolant leak which was fixed with a gasket. Might be a small boost leak that is visible with smoke every now & then.
& for the high idle, I plugged up the Digital multimeter & after some research the TPS Plug should be reading at 1k ohm but my reading was at 3k or 4k ohm with no throttle. Don't remember how how it went with throttle pressed. I then looked for the adjustment screw to adjust the ohm down to 1k but it was missing. I could be wrong but if i'm looking at the correct area it's missing lol. That screw was out of the picture so I went to adjust the throttle stop screw while keeping the Multimeter on & the ohm went only down as far as 2,500-2,700. Started the car, did the same procedure & idled the car until warm and boom, car felt like it wanted to die so i picked up the throttle and left it at about 2,200
While the car was on we tweaked the throttle stop screw & tightened it (basicly bring back up the ohm readings) and as the ohm readings got closer to what i was holding the idle at, eventually picked up and matched the idle and brought the idle up. we left it at 2k where it started.
before we did that we loosened the screw(bringingtheohmbackdown) and realized that the car indeed will idle as low as 1,400-1,500 but it would be really rough and unhealthy.
just left it at 2k.
could anyone explain this? Have i came up with something or just talking and believing i did lol.
Thanks
& for the high idle, I plugged up the Digital multimeter & after some research the TPS Plug should be reading at 1k ohm but my reading was at 3k or 4k ohm with no throttle. Don't remember how how it went with throttle pressed. I then looked for the adjustment screw to adjust the ohm down to 1k but it was missing. I could be wrong but if i'm looking at the correct area it's missing lol. That screw was out of the picture so I went to adjust the throttle stop screw while keeping the Multimeter on & the ohm went only down as far as 2,500-2,700. Started the car, did the same procedure & idled the car until warm and boom, car felt like it wanted to die so i picked up the throttle and left it at about 2,200
While the car was on we tweaked the throttle stop screw & tightened it (basicly bring back up the ohm readings) and as the ohm readings got closer to what i was holding the idle at, eventually picked up and matched the idle and brought the idle up. we left it at 2k where it started.
before we did that we loosened the screw(bringingtheohmbackdown) and realized that the car indeed will idle as low as 1,400-1,500 but it would be really rough and unhealthy.
just left it at 2k.
could anyone explain this? Have i came up with something or just talking and believing i did lol.
Thanks
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Yeah, it looks fine from what I can remember. I'll double check. Would it be that simple just swapping a new screw in there ? anyone know the specs of the oem one ?
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I put in a nut & no change. is there sopposed to be a spring on the nut? & could it be a vacuum leak? The car does not pulse at any time. It stays steady at 2k once warm.
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could it be this? if im correct this is a blow off valve. i have a greddy blow off valve now but the stock one is still in tact and the hose is still connected on the blow off valve but not connected to anything on the other end?
here's a video of some things & examples. & also this is a picture of where the gauge is connected. (blue wire)
just throwing things out there
Last edited by TheBlackRX7_; 05-13-16 at 07:28 PM.
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could it be this? if im correct this is a blow off valve. i have a greddy blow off valve now but the stock one is still in tact and the hose is still connected on the blow off valve but not connected to anything on the other end?
here's a video of some things & examples. & also this is a picture of where the gauge is connected. (blue wire)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fbPg...&feature=share
just throwing things out there
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