DC Area thread - The District, NoVa, Maryland
#1727
Rotisserie Engine
iTrader: (8)
If it has new bearings, the break-in is 1-2k miles with an oil change after the first 500 or so and then probably again at the end of 2000.
If its used bearings the break-in is about 500 miles and then you're good.
Keep the RPMs below 4-5000 and try to varry your rpm a lot (not cruising on the highway at a constant rpm)
If its used bearings the break-in is about 500 miles and then you're good.
Keep the RPMs below 4-5000 and try to varry your rpm a lot (not cruising on the highway at a constant rpm)
#1728
Full Member
iTrader: (4)
Got it. I'll find out what exactly he replaces since he'll give me a list of work done and what not. Driving it back when I get it is all highway so I'll find a way to vary my rpm's like you're suggesting. And goodness now I won't get on it and screw something up. It's costing a pretty penny to get this done, don't want any added costs! I appreciate the info.
#1729
1308ccs of awesome
iTrader: (9)
Got it. I'll find out what exactly he replaces since he'll give me a list of work done and what not. Driving it back when I get it is all highway so I'll find a way to vary my rpm's like you're suggesting. And goodness now I won't get on it and screw something up. It's costing a pretty penny to get this done, don't want any added costs! I appreciate the info.
http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/weba.../97CatComp.pdf
page 153 and 154
#1731
B O R I C U A
iTrader: (14)
Got it. I'll find out what exactly he replaces since he'll give me a list of work done and what not. Driving it back when I get it is all highway so I'll find a way to vary my rpm's like you're suggesting. And goodness now I won't get on it and screw something up. It's costing a pretty penny to get this done, don't want any added costs! I appreciate the info.
#1733
F'n Newbie...
iTrader: (6)
And I was all like "OMG, no, no, no, No, NO, NOOOOO! Dude, DON'T do it!!!"
Then as I started to post this (I was gunna link in the recent thread on PFS) I noticed the differences..
#1734
Full Member
iTrader: (4)
Lol Hopefully I won't have a nightmare story to share with you guys. He's already done some work on the car since I dropped it off. I had Evo-r.net flush mount lights on it that I decided to replace with stock popups and he get one installed no time flat, had to order a part for the other one but still did really quick work. Sent me a video and everything of it working so he seems like a legit stand up guy. I am paying a pretty penny to get all the work done so I hope it comes out perfect.
#1735
F'n Newbie...
iTrader: (6)
If it has new bearings, the break-in is 1-2k miles with an oil change after the first 500 or so and then probably again at the end of 2000.
If its used bearings the break-in is about 500 miles and then you're good.
Keep the RPMs below 4-5000 and try to varry your rpm a lot (not cruising on the highway at a constant rpm)
If its used bearings the break-in is about 500 miles and then you're good.
Keep the RPMs below 4-5000 and try to varry your rpm a lot (not cruising on the highway at a constant rpm)
Heat cycles are your friend just as much as a set number of miles.
Long story short, as your builder what to do, then do what he says
#1737
Rotisserie Engine
iTrader: (8)
The clearances used throughout the engine will also be reflected in break in time. I would suggest you ask the engine builder what they recommend you do to properly break in the engine that they just built. If the builder is competent (which you believe he is) then he'll be in the best position to give you accurate instructions on how he wants the engine he put together treated.
Heat cycles are your friend just as much as a set number of miles.
Long story short, as your builder what to do, then do what he says
Heat cycles are your friend just as much as a set number of miles.
Long story short, as your builder what to do, then do what he says
but what fendamonky said is very true
#1738
F'n Newbie...
iTrader: (6)
My personal thought is that it's always better to be overly careful and reserved, than potentially throw all the hard work (and money) away by being lax and lowering the overall lifespan and performance of the motor by neglecting it at the start.
#1739
Enthusiast
iTrader: (5)
Mazda has a break in procedure and schedule in their competition catalog:
http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/weba.../97CatComp.pdf
page 153 and 154
http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/weba.../97CatComp.pdf
page 153 and 154
#1741
F'n Newbie...
iTrader: (6)
I was actually just thinking about this the other day... Do you know if they will count autocross as "racing" if it isn't specifically with an SCCA/NASA group? (aka, would going out with the local CDC guys twice a month count?)
#1742
1308ccs of awesome
iTrader: (9)
Originally Posted by mazdaspeed
Q1 requirement: Provide 2 current race results (within the last 12 months) for the Mazda race car you are registering. Official race results must show the following information to be accepted:
- Racer's Name
- Event name and date held
- Sanctioning body/racing organization or club holding the event
- Class in which your Mazda race car competed
- Model of Mazda racecar unless specified by class (example: Spec Miata)
- Finishing Position in Class
- Racer's Name
- Event name and date held
- Sanctioning body/racing organization or club holding the event
- Class in which your Mazda race car competed
- Model of Mazda racecar unless specified by class (example: Spec Miata)
- Finishing Position in Class
#1749
F'n Newbie...
iTrader: (6)
There is a diesel performance shop in Curtis Bay, just SE of Baltimore, that apparently has pretty solid injector cleaning. I am planning on talking to them tomorrow about if the do regular gas injectors as well as diesel ones.
It's a bit closer to home..
It's a bit closer to home..
#1750
Ya thats definitely closer if they would do gas injectors. Im gonna wait on getting mine serviced. I replaced all the rubber o rings on them as they were hard as rocks. Hopefully it is good enough for now. I gotta get this baby back on the track. Ordered up my engine mount and a new flyuidline radiator. Once they get here i just need to get springs to go with my new kyb agx shocks. Im getting excited, a bit longer than i anticipated but worth the wait.