lacoclaina

Hi, is there anybody currently using a 62mm Terminator IDA, just want to know basic info as far as ideal plugs, timing and jetting used, so far for timing I have 24L and 18T, msd6a firing two coils and factory coil for Trailing thru cap, carb is running very rich at idle and mid and up is getting lean, last setup I have was 120 air 255 main, f7 tubes and 85 idle, regulator set at 4.5 psi, plugs are BR10EIX.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i methodically work through the carb, starting with the idle jet, then the mains, and then the air bleeds. you have to just try different jets until you know what part does what, and then what the engine likes.

a PP is kind of nice, because if its not happy, it lets you know!

rotorholic

iTrader: (53)

What size chokes are in the carb? "Start" with a 70 idle jet, a 130 air and 230 main, the fuel pressure at 7-9 lbs and re-adjust the float boat if needed, the timing should be timed/adjusted at 3k-4k rpms when the distributor is fully advance.

Theres a few members that have had great success and ran into the 10s in the quarter mile with these carbs, see if they'll throw you a jetting bone to get you going.

lacoclaina

Was able to spend some time with the car today, did a couple of changes and it's running 14.5 afr fully open, one of the problems is still hesitating when coming of idle, also when cruising its fouling the plugs, I tried the 11.5 plugs but didn't help, the last setup in the carb is, 55 chokes, F2 tubes, 95 idle, 100 air, 265 main.

rotorholic

iTrader: (53)

switch out the F2 tubes for F11 and you wont have that fouling during cruise issue but it will lean out in the higher rpms, A P-port is not really a cruising kinda engine, its more of a ***** out full throttle engine, Who told you to put F2s anyway?

Theres a lot of misleading information in here from internet tuners and you tube fans so its always better to try to see what works for you in the real world, i've giving you some good starting points to play with. BTW, I had a JayCee 62mm semi-p-port nearly 20 years ago in my RX-3, it was really 1998.

lacoclaina

The F2's came with the carb, I have a set of F8 and ordered a set of F11, will update when I get the changes done.

Rub20B

As a try to keep changing these expensive 11.5 plug is to try the bosch W2CS, we have been using them now for one season in our 13B PP RX3 and they produce same power as the NGK Race plugs one the dyno, and did not fool once whereas with the NGK plugs would fool easily when idling for some time. if you find the Bosch W2CS to hot you can also get W08CS, they should be colder.

To change the transition point of the carb the float level also makes a big difference.

lacoclaina

I will give them a try, ordered new 50 mm chokes to replace the 55's, before I give up with the carb I will try that, I can get it to run good at the transition point but it's to rich at idle, try to lean it and starts to hesitate, so hopefully the chokes fixit.

r100 repu

iTrader: (1)

Im running 50 chokes f2 260 main 110 air in my sandrail not rich no hesitation but its a b bridge on my b ppprt i run f8 not running rich no hesitation watch your float level thats a mother ffer will overflow if not set right set it to weber specs thats how i had to set sandrail to be able to ride sand dunes

lacoclaina

What do you run for idle in your PP, what carb are you using? I did set the float to factory specs, I am also running into another problem with my gas psi, I am running a return style regulator using 3/8 for supply and 5/16 for return, psi drops after a while at idle, like if the pump heats up, going to try running 3/8 for return and see if it helps.

Rub20B

Is the regulator designed for this low pressure? We lost a race because of running this type of regulator, it worked fine for qualifying and half of first race for unknow reason base pressure climbed from 0.3-0.35 bar to 0.45 bar causing the carb to overflow and flood on anything apart from WOT...

Switched back to a ported malpassi/filter king unit. Much more stable than return style regulator, running 2 facet red top pumps and 0.3 bar base pressure, when running a but more than 0.3 bar the float level will rise at idle or in corners with the grose jet. a needle jet is slightly more forgiving in term of fuel pressure but ball jet is unforgiving. 1 psi makes difference like day and night

lacoclaina

Regulator is designed to set from 4.5 to 9 psi, I also tried a 1 - 4 psi no return and made the problem even worst, not sure if the return style or non return regulator is even the problem or the pump itself.

Rub20B

Are you running a grose jet (glass ball) or normal one (needle). the grose jet I have found are really sensitive to fuel pressure and vibrations whereas the needle jets are more tolerant.

You could swap in a the biggest needle jet you can find and see if that solves the idle/part load issues. chance are that it will empty the bowl at high rpm WOT but then at least you know where the problem is.

For the idle jet personally I am running 70. do you know when its hesitating if it overly rich or lean?

lacoclaina

3.3mm glass ball needle valve, When it stumbles is very lean, too much air to carry to carry to main circuit, I can get rid of the hesitation but it's to rich, I have to run 100 at idle with 100 air holder and it makes the crossover no issue, but it runs too rich, anything below 95 and starts to stumble again, waiting on the 50mm venturis to see if I can use lower idle. But having the fuel pump issue at the same time is not helping the situation.

Shredduuhh

iTrader: (11)

put smaller idle jets in.. 75 f10 and go with a small air bleed jet, a .075 this will bring in the fuel quicker eliminating the bad transition from idle circuit to main.

lacoclaina

Current setup is at 75 idle 80 air jet, same results just lower #s, also F8 tubes, anything below 75 stumbles but still to rich in the 10 to 11 AFR at idle

speedturn

iTrader: (1)

What is your application? Are you strictly racing, or are you doing some street driving, or are you mostly street driving?

lacoclaina

[QUOTE=speedturn;11941166]What is your application? Are you strictly racing, or are you doing some street driving, or are you mostly street driving?
Mostly street, right now I am waiting on the 50mm chokes, I think that will cure my problem, but had them order over a month ago from Geers Engineering and haven't received them yet, if the don't come in, I will have to sell the carb and start all over again.

Rub20B

What power lever are you aiming for?

lacoclaina

230 and up.

Rub20B

Hmm ok, wouldnt it be easier then to use a standard 51mm IDA. 300hp (flywheel) is no problem with these and if you have normal aux venturis (no annular) they respond good to tuning changes.

lacoclaina

Yes, you are correct and that will be my next move, but I have spend so much energy and time trying to get this one to work, but just gave up and put my carb for sale, sucks that will have to start from scratch and fabricate new intake.

drag 7

have you tried running a 50 venturi and f2 e tube and a custom main jet like a 265

lacoclaina

Just did, except for the f2 tubes I am using f8's, it got better but still too rich at idle, Just got 48mm made and going to try it hopefully this weekend. Waiting on a new coil to come in since the last one exploded in my face after wiring a 6al to my trailing, started the car and had no tach, started looking around notice to spark at trailing and boom, luckily they are filled with non corrosive oil, I found the B/Y cable was touching the + side of the coil and over charged it, will update soon.

lacoclaina

48MM chokes worked better along with f2 tubes and very low air holder for iddle, no hessitation or lean spot at all, but way too rich, I think this is the end of me and this monster carb, not really suitable for the street, next step I am considering the 51mm from RB or a 51 from JayCee, anybody has suggestions. Also JayCee has used ones but Italian or I can get a new one made in Spain for same price.