youngfc

iTrader: (1)

there not done and i probly shouldnt post tell they are but what do u guys think?

youngfc

iTrader: (1)

also how aggressive should i go on the exaust ports? what should the close and open time be on the port? and I got a bad set of housings to practice on ( curse those damn apex seals that stratched my housings lol)

RX200013B

aux bridge looks to be in the side seal track. if it is, it's a paper weight now. primary port looks OK, just clean and smooth. my .02$ is if you bridge the aux, bridge the secondary port too.

youngfc

iTrader: (1)

shes close i thought i went to far at first (my dog scared the hell out of me and i flintched)
thanks for the input though

youngfc

iTrader: (1)

if I bridge my sec ports how bad will my bottom end be? I just now saw the smooth it out part I plan on it but all i had at the time was carbide bits.

aerosev

Here's a recent 6 port bridgeport I did for a friend, just to give some ideas

youngfc

iTrader: (1)

thanks thats a really nice pic it really helps, and do you think that I should bring the bridge down a bit? I was thinking a little latter close time = little more top end.

EpitrochoidalPower!

With regards to bridging the secondary, your bottom end power shouldn't decrease, if anything it should increase. Your low rpm drive-ability may suffer somewhat though.

RX200013B

you're closing timing does not need to be any later. earlier opening is what you need now.
.02 cents

youngfc

iTrader: (1)

thanks but I gotta put up with my auto tranny for alittle. so what im gettin to is if I bridged my sec ports would it be dd-able with the auto?
I grew up racing bikes so i can put up with some low tq as long as I got top end and a clutch (only drove two auto cars in my life a c5 vette with some mods and a 93 escort lx wich was bearable.),well I also drove my 7 for 3 days (damn road debis) but I dont know if that counts.

youngfc

iTrader: (1)

thanks how much earlier would you reconmend? I dont know the timing off hand but I made a templet with them, or should I just bring it down to the bottom of the aux ports?

RX200013B

street port the secondary or bridge it. no more is needed to the aux port

aerosev

I think you won't be able to find a template for a 6 port so the best way to get a good job would be to fill the area you are going to bridge with a permenant marker and the get a vernia caliper and set it to about 1mm and use the water seal to rest one edge of the vernia on and scribe a line along the edge it will give you a nice curved line to port to.
Next set it to somewhere between 5-6mm and use the edge of the existing port as the next reference and again you will get a nice curved edge to port to leaving you with a nice 5-6mm bridge, then you can if you want to get technical use your degree wheel to figure out where you want them to open and close etc or you can take a punt and scribe the upper and lower edges of the port, I usually do this by hand and just make it a tidy half circle, just make sure you take a measurement off the fist housing and get the second one to open close at the same point.
Next fit your rotor housing to the plate with the dowel pins and mark the housing to match the plate and then port it match.
Dont be afraid to port the secondary as well, it will give you alot more power and with a secondary bridge in my experience they are still ery drivable and feel like they make more power all they way through the rev range,

The other thing worth noting with these engines is the auxport can be opened up to bring it closer to the edge of the rotor housing, measure the distance compared to the secondary and you will see what I mean, only approx 1mm but a small differents.

Good luck Have FUN!

youngfc

iTrader: (1)

thanx alot aerosev that was the most techincal and clear response I've gotten so far.
after reading that im going to go ahead and brigde my sec. ports, and im going to do what you said and bring out that aux. port.
(ps im a broke HS student so kinda figured i could take some of my piston knowledge and make my own templets, so your measurements really really help)

aerosev

No Problem just glad I can help, I think half the people on these sites are simply keyboard warriors and the closest they have got to modifying an engine is checking the oil on mums hatchback!

The other thing I forgot to mention, I try and keep my bridge ports on a bit of an angle towards the intake manifold to try to encourage airflow to go into the bridgeport, I remove alot of material using an air pencil grinder and attack it from the manifold end of the port, the end result is when you look in the port you can just see though the bridge, if you do this you will need to make sure that you don't put too much of an angle or you will bust through to the water seal groove and render the housing useless. So far the best carbide bit I have found for bridge porting is a 3mm taper bit, the cutting edge starts at 3mm and tapers to about .5mm and it has swirled cutting edges, it removes material quickly and doesn't chatter so gives you good control for porting.

Feel free to ask any questions happy to help!

youngfc

iTrader: (1)

yep most are.
and i found that same bit to be my favorite for it too.
i was tryin to angle them but progress is SLOW but surely...kinda scared that im gonna break into the water jacket.

youngfc

iTrader: (1)

update
we painted everything i did a 1/2 bridge and just took out the difusers by breaking them then grinding them smooth.its 5:30 ish in the morning and we havent stopded since noon so i gonna go crash then put her together tomoro morning.
ill post pics when i get her running.

aerosev

Cool man keep up the good work, post up a video when you get it running!

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Real glad we have such professional porting prodigies here on the board, next time I have a question about changing spark plugs I'll be sure to PM both you guys

aerosev

And I rest my case!

aerosev

I just realized that GoodfellaFD3S has 25550 posts! if he spent 10 minutes for every post that would mean he spent 255500 minutes or 4258 hours of his life on this site! if he were to break that up into an average 40hr working week that would equate to 106 working weeks or 2 years of his working life spent on this site!

This could be why he takes offense to my keyboard warrior comment!
If he spent this much time working on his car it would have been the fastest rotary on the planet!

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

pwnd

youngfc

iTrader: (1)

And Im back doing this one more time. she never got to start just because of bad luck . ended up cracking a rear iron, but my luck has changed I went to a junk yard to pick up an engine for the rear iron and got lucky. picked up a mazda reman for a $100 that i just broke down, and she doesn't look like theres much mileage on her. hell she looks new.
so now Im gonna redo this port job. thanks guys, and on a side note to Goodfellafd3s I didnt mean to offend anyone.

rotarygod

iTrader: (1)

Have you seen how much power his car makes?

youngfc

iTrader: (1)

487hp damn thats not to shaby man, hell its more then i got by alot.