djSL

iTrader: (5)

Yes, I know there are countless threads regarding similar situations. However, I have some specifics. I plan on tuning the living **** out of the suspension and chassis of this vehicle to see potential drift/ time attack days as well as street use.

This being said, I am not adverse to gutting a majority of the chassis. I am also stitch welding the entire chassis(free service :])

Currently I am an NA 6 port with a full rb system, no cat, koyo rad, e fan, stupid Blitz cone filter, all emissions deleted minus OMP, stock suspension for now, and a 17" setup on wheels with 245's/8.5 in the rear. I understand that is probably waaaay too much rubber for what the 160-170ish I may be running but it came with the car.

Basically I am looking for suggestions for a near 200whp (less is fine), yet extremely track friendly FC. I appreciate all answers minus just turbo the B****

flaco

iTrader: (7)

you planning in rebuilding and porting the engine ?

djSL

iTrader: (5)

That is a definite possibility. The motor currently only has 6k on it. However, I am open to porting.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

ditch the 17's and get something shorter, or get some 4.44 or 4.7 rear end gears

a2dadamm

iTrader: (1)

will deff need a port. and look into an engine management system
and I would for sure lose the 17's find really light 16's or even stick with a 15. I think like rpf1's in 16's are around 15 pounds each. something like that will really help.

23Racer

Absolutely loose the 17" wheels. I run 15x7's with 225x45x15 tires. Really low rolling radius effectively acts as a higher ratio rear gear and there is more than enough traction. I run wheels that weigh 15.7 lbs and when I use a heavier set of wheels (17 lbs+), they look cooler, but I am almost a second a lap slower on average. Also, the lighter wheel and tire package reduces unsprung weight and really improves the mechanical grip and responsiveness of the car.

Regarding the 6 port, we bolted on all kinds of stuff on our S5 6 port and made some decent power with it. It had good torque and was only limited by the stock rev limiter. My suggestion would be to go to an aftermarket ecu that allows for setting your own air/fuels, aggressive timing and rev limits, a ported RB Road Race header or if you can find a good ICS header, better. A very good exhaust system, I prefer long tube primaries merging into a 3" single. An S4 UIM amd LIM (works way better at higher rpm) and then make sure all of the other vehicle systems are in as good of shape as possible. I have heard of guys with stockish S5 kegs pulling the magical 200 whp in ITS and EProd, but I have never seen it in reality. I expect they are pullin a gazzilion rpm and the lifespan of the keg is in minutes.

Just some suggestions.

Eric

SCCAITS

iTrader: (3)

I think you meant to say S5.

djSL

iTrader: (5)

I plan on losing the wheels I currently have for a decent set of 16's. Also, I intend to eventually swap to a Turbo II drivetrain (mine seems to be acting up anyway), get a different clutch/lightened flywheel, and perhaps an aluminum driveshaft. I figure every little bit can help. I am planning on an ECU upgrade as well, though due to the cost it may be sometime. I would like to buy an ECU that I could use for either an NA or Turbo in case way down the road I decide to go turbo.

On that note, anyone want any 17x8.5 MB Weapons with some Yoko S-drives? I will trade for a nice set of 16's hahaha.

rx7freak13v

SCCAITS, 23Racer did mean s4. s4 na manifold has long smooth runner that flow better on the top end. the s5 manifold has a collector for the air and then splits off again. the s5 manifold is only worth using once it's ported and only if your keeping the vdi active, otherwise the s4 manifold is better.

DjSl, remember lighter is better. get you a good 6puk sprung clutch and lightweight flywheel. meantime, weght reduce the **** out of it lol. keep defrosters.....the extra 40ish pounds if that isn't worth not being able to see at night, or in the morning. i made that mistake before. otherwise, porting will be required to make that kind of power na and quieted for street use. your going to be over revving it like crazy which is something the PO didn't plan for, so while your in there doing your porting, have the rotating assembly balanced after you invest in the new clutch/flywheel. oh and gasket port match your intake manifold or even better, grab a ms3 and get some itb's

djSL

iTrader: (5)

Yes, so far the plan is to lighten it up. I am trying to find a decent TII trans as mine is getting weak. So I might wait for the clutch/flywheel combo until a trans is acquired.