schoop

Ok, mine is a 91 na. Very nice car! Bought car while stuck in limp mode and quite certain it is due to OMP as lines were spotty or empty. Sent ecu to rtek for the upgrade. ECU is back home with me but havent installed yet as son and i are cleaning up interior and putting back together with all the missing pieces. Not to mention the damn snow wont stop here in michigan and this car is rust free! Been spending my breaks here at work reading and reading on this sight and cant believe the knowledge you all have on these rotarys!!! Believe ours is bone stock with 124,000 miles on it and i want it to just run the way she once did as soon as weather breaks and ECU is installed. I read a section of the pros and cons of these cars and motors. My new concern is reading that this eshaft bypass valve should b replaced after 75k as it can cause motor damage. I searched and have read a little on this but noticed one guy say something about pushing in clutch or something? Can someone maybe send me a link on how to maintain this valve or clean it or what should i do????

fidelity101

iTrader: (11)

Where in MI do you live?

schoop

1/2 hour north of muskegon.

fidelity101

iTrader: (11)

I'd come by and help but I'm near Detroit. I would re-install the ECU and see.

23Racer

The wax pellet bypass valve usually works until it doesn't and you will notice an immediate drop in oil pressure. It is usually replaced by most people at around the 75,000 mile mark and to get to it you have to undo the great big bolt in the center of the eccentric shaft front pulley. It sounds pretty easy, but it requires you to keep pressure on the eccentric shaft to keep it pressed to the front of the motor. This takes up a few of the clearances and helps prevent a needle bearing washer inside the front cover from falling down and out of place on the eccentric shaft. The easiest way to do this is to keep the clutch depressed the whole time you are undoing that bolt, changing the bypass valve and replacing the bolt.

The second issue is locking the motor in place to allow you to undo the bolt as it is torqued to about 300 ft lbs and held in place with Loctite. Most people use a ring gear locking tool that bolts on to the block and has teeth that engage the ring gear and hold it in place. I had a guys make up a big flat faced washer that was welded in to a long pole and this washer cleared the pulley hub and had the 4 bolt holes for the washer to bolt on to the pulley and hub. I bolted on the washer and 7 foot arm, heated up the hub with a propane torch and undid the bolt with an rattling air impact gun, all the while having an adjustable rod holding the clutch pedal down. Changed the hub and pulley (to a smaller one from Racing Beat), changed the bypass valve, bolted the arm/washer tool onto the new pulley, added new Loctite to the bolt, re-torqued it. I then removed the clutch tool and I was ready to go.

Not hard to do, but you need to take steps to ensure that the flat washer behind the cover doesn't fall out of position or you need to take the front cover off to relocate it.

Good luck.

Or you can replace the ecu and keep an eagle eye on the oil pressure. If it suddenly goes out of whack, replace it then.

Eric

schoop

Thats what im talkin about, you guys know your stuff !!! That was a great explanation and now makes total sense, thank you so much. I am quite tempted to do as you say, just watch gauge closely. Even premixing, i have seen no smoke from this motor. I assume poor care of changing oil or using cheaper grades are probably the main cause of failure to this valve!? Does it help or hurt to run full synthetic in these rotaries?

schoop

I do appreciate the offer of help, fidelity101. Wish i could find good rotary mechanic on this side of state. I would buy all the beers and pick his brain!! Would love to eventually try a turbo from all i read.