Ongoing New Mexico thread
05-21-12, 05:46 PM
#1104
Ok, what may be a rather simple question, and yes I tried the search function already with variations of key words I thought would work. I'm over-thinking the problem, but does anybody know of a simple way to drop in a lug stud for an FD? I had one bind up on me and removing it was somewhat simple with a cutoff tool. Unfortunately, it doesn't look like the new one will slide in past the rotor shield. I hate to bend the crud out of the shield and try to fit it back. I don't have a shop manual so I can't look it up. Anyone done this procedure before and have that magical aha piece of advice...Sean...???
05-22-12, 01:40 AM
#1105
David, ive got answer for you, but you not going to like it. The studs are press fit into the rotor. Here's the best way to install. First take the rotor off the car. Go to autozone and get an open ended lug nut or a regular flat nut that will fit your stud. Put your stud in the freezer overnight. When you have everything apart and ready to put your stud in, put your rotor in the oven at around 450 degrees (you'll need heavy gloves obviously) and let it get to temp, probably an hour or so. The next steps need to be done fairly quickly so temps don't change. Take your stud out of the freezer and your rotor out of the oven. Push your stud though the rotor as far as it will go then thread your open nut on as far as it will go. An impact will work best but any wrench or socket will too. Start cranking on that nut, it will pull the stud into the rotor. Like I said, putting it back together quickly will allow it to pull through easier. Hope that's easy to understand. Call me if you need to.
05-22-12, 10:52 PM
#1106
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Oh no gentlemen, it gets better. I finally found the right way to search for it on the forum and I figured out what I needed to do. The key detail I left out was that this was the REAR wheel!!! Yeah, that one. So, for the first time in my life I had to try the heat it with a torch and hit it with a hammer trick to remove the hub/knuckle assembly from the axle. It worked like a charm. I've got new bearings on the way from Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda and am planning on ordering a bushing set since I've got everything disassembled.
My new question is what opinions do you guys have on the trailing arm/toe link sets versus just replacing the bushings on the stock pieces? I would like to do some for fun track stuff and still enjoy the car on the street. Are the sets even worth it? I'll try to put some picks up of the hub/knuckle now that I have them off.
My new question is what opinions do you guys have on the trailing arm/toe link sets versus just replacing the bushings on the stock pieces? I would like to do some for fun track stuff and still enjoy the car on the street. Are the sets even worth it? I'll try to put some picks up of the hub/knuckle now that I have them off.
05-22-12, 11:53 PM
#1107
Rolln Z's, FD's & MKIII's
My new question is what opinions do you guys have on the trailing arm/toe link sets versus just replacing the bushings on the stock pieces? I would like to do some for fun track stuff and still enjoy the car on the street. Are the sets even worth it? I'll try to put some picks up of the hub/knuckle now that I have them off.
05-23-12, 10:38 PM
#1111
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well here is my feeling on your inquiry going with an adjustable set will work perfect for the street vs. track set up i prefer this option cause i really want the response on the track to be competitive and still hold my street settings. If your not willing to change the setting each time your at the track vs. going to your street setting then going with the oem settings and replace bushings will do well but be sure you are prepared to not get the suspension response on the track that you will feel you need to corner correctly. you'll get some spurts of response but you'll get wheel to wheel with the corvettes and wrx and start screaming for more but she'll leave you crying.
05-23-12, 11:09 PM
#1112
Rolln Z's, FD's & MKIII's
Thanks Aaron. I definitely plan on getting adjustable coil-overs eventually. But once I have those will the upgraded bushings make a difference or is the rubber just fine. In theory the more solid ones sound great, but I was hoping for an opinion of whether or not the added performance is truly noticeable.
05-23-12, 11:14 PM
#1113
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to be honest you wont notice a major difference only that the wear on stock bushings will come faster if your going into track conditions on a regular basis. plus going with stiffer bushings will tweak your chassis in little steps cause there is no room for the frame to move while under G force pressure. So if it were me i'd go with the stock bushings for now and run it under some track conditions and see what kind of wear your getting and decided if they are breaking faster than they should then i would upgrade to energy suspension.
05-23-12, 11:24 PM
#1114
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https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=46180
https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=46179
https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=46178
https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=46177
So here's the tool and the parts that were separated.
https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=46179
https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=46178
https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=46177
So here's the tool and the parts that were separated.
05-24-12, 03:19 PM
#1115
You are right sir
Ok, I'll look into those websites for sure. I work at Perfection Honda(lol, for the money guys) so I think I can get a good discount on labor if I just get all the parts and be like "Here, replace".
It was indeed a compliment. As in, how the hell did you figure to do all that? lol
It was indeed a compliment. As in, how the hell did you figure to do all that? lol
05-24-12, 07:03 PM
#1116
You are right sir
Ok, I'll look into those websites for sure. I work at Perfection Honda(lol, for the money guys) so I think I can get a good discount on labor if I just get all the parts and be like "Here, replace".
It was indeed a compliment. As in, how the hell did you figure to do all that? lol
Ok, I'll look into those websites for sure. I work at Perfection Honda(lol, for the money guys) so I think I can get a good discount on labor if I just get all the parts and be like "Here, replace".
It was indeed a compliment. As in, how the hell did you figure to do all that? lol
05-24-12, 10:50 PM
#1118
"Smells like coolant.."
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Better pictures will come tomorrow, once the sun is out. I got her on the ground now, all buttoned up and ready to go, literally i think the only thing i need is an alignment and it's ready to drive again. These with the SWEET offset and stance, combined with the lip gives for a really aggressive stance. Can't wait to drive her again
05-25-12, 01:08 AM
#1120
Congrats Mike! Hope it works!
05-25-12, 07:14 PM
#1122
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Time for rear end restoration. I've got new bearings (OEM) and new wheel studs/lugs. I'm looking into buying a set of bushings for control arms etc. I just need to unload some stuff around the house. Aaron...I'm thinking of you buddy (bonez hi flo cat and dp). If not, I think we've got a lead on selling some windows we picked up a while back but never used. We'll see.
05-26-12, 04:57 PM
#1123
"Smells like coolant.."
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Can anyone hook me up with a set of rear wheel bearings and some axle nuts that aren't going to set me back upwards of 3-400 dollars w/ tax? This is turning into a real nightmare real quick.
05-27-12, 03:05 PM
#1124
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Hey Justin. I just received up a pair for my FD from Ray at Malloy Mazda and it only cost me $150. That was bearings only w/out axle nuts, but surely the axle nuts will only run an extra $50 on top of that right?
05-27-12, 05:58 PM
#1125
"Smells like coolant.."
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The axle nuts are actually only about 9 bucks a pop. The bearings, however, are $118 each. Not for a set; each. At least, they are where I'm looking. I bought the axle nuts and we'll see if that fixes it, the bearings look and feel fine soo.