TitaniumTT

Got a little more work done today. ALMOST finished up the solenoids & the AUX harness. Everything is terminated, I just need a little more Raychem for the wastegate and Pre-Spool Valve solenoids whick I'll pick up on Saturday along with the dash and a few other bits and pieces. Anywho, a few more pics. Here is a good shot of the AIT and the BAC valve.



Here is the unterminated lead for the low 2-stroke sender.




I used this sender inside the tank. Seems like a very well built little piece. Lets hope it does it's job




Here is were I had to alter the harness a little bit. There are 6 solenoids for the twins but only 5 outputs. There was a little miss communication (prob no made clear by me) and the dual-out for the Turbo control actuator was on a seperate lead. The way the soledoids are arranges the Turbo control, the Charge Control and the Charge relief are all on one relay block (8 wires, 4 solenoids, 3 outputs from the M800) and the wastegate and the Pre-Spool Valve are on a seperate block. Not a big deal at all and here is the result of an hour or so of tracing wires and pins and playing with Raychem and heatshrink.



Yes in case you are wondering that sheet is the pin-out if you will for the two harnesses. The main engine harness on the left column, and the aux harness on the right. The main engine harness has something like 79 pins running through that one connector and through 3/4" raychem that at the end of the day is about 5/8" thick. VERY thin gauge but strong as all hell wires.

TitaniumTT

In the pic above you can see a small lead of unterminated wires. Those are spares incase we need them for tuning. We can run things like EGT, 2nd'ary boost pressure between the compressor and the charge control valve, or exhaust backpressure in the manifold itself to tune the pre-spool valve. Basically I thought of everyway to possibly control the twins and planned accordingly. Fingers crossed but between a few people that are already in this thread, I don't see a problem. To answer Carlos Iglesias, we may use that option but it would be to tune the turbo's, not the fuel and ignition maps.
The pic below shows the Turbo Control solenoids x2, Charge Relief, and Charge Control solenoid. The 8 pi metripack is for that bank of four and the four pin connector is for the wastegate and pre-spool valve. The pins in the connector are just loose becuase I ran out of Raychem.



Here you can see all 6 solenoids and the unwrapped piece of the harness.



The res of the aux harness. The Lambda sensor, MAP sensor and the the oil pres & fuel pressure. I think the Adel clamp dead center I may rotate and then add another @ about the 1:30 position on the trans tunnel by drilling a hole and welding in a stud from the cockpit. I'd like to point out that this harness in it's entirety was built through a few phone calls, and few pictures and an actual tailors tape measure. My guru has yet to see the car, only the engine I dropped off to him for the harness work. We're that good I guess.



Last shot of the night shows the fuel filter and the pressure sender and the connectors for that and the oil pressure. This is an autometer replacement sender that sells for $99 and is basically an OEM style sender at a little bit less of a price tag.

2a+RoN

I do! works very well...

TitaniumTT, its so nice to see somebody on here taking the time and money to do an install the right way. I'm excited to see you get the car up and running and be able to really start having fun with v.3!

TitaniumTT

Are you referring to the autotune function? I will admit now, this is my first venture into installing and tuning a fully programable EMS.

Thank you. I think most of the fun with the v3 will come through some of the more experienced members here. As I said, I'm basically a virgin with this.

slo

iTrader: (1)

I know I mentioned this before but I am real happy with the stock twins on just 3 outputs (6 solenoids), 2 of them being boost control and pre-control respectively.

TitaniumTT

I know, & you dialed everything in with some electrionic trickery & we spoke after I purchased all of this. I was, and am still very impressed with what you did to get them as smooth as you did. My main convern and the reason for going the M800 route was the flexibilty to have independant control of all of the solenoids and the ability to expand in the future.

Ignition boots should be in today or tomorrow and the tip on the wires is much appreciated. I checked and they are all far away from that motor mount so arcing shouldn't be a problem. Dash, trim switch and adapter cables are getting picked up on saturday and I should be able to power everything up in a week or 2.

2a+RoN

I am referring to running map/emap as efficiency. However, that coupled with our autotune software makes for some easy tuning.

And, you are doing exceptionally well for being your first install..

slo

iTrader: (1)

A little bit of electrical trickery and a little bit of trickery with how the vac/boost solenoids are connected.

I have had about 3 different versions, and the best version has very little electrical trickery, just a relay controlling the 4 turbo control solenoids to activate them all at once because the output I am using can't handle 4, 1AMP solenoids.

I would love to see a system of controlling the turbo's that used a sensor measuring there actual rotational speed.

TitaniumTT

Ah, I'm going to have to do a little more reseach into that.

Thank you very much

What I may end up doing is putting 2 more pressure sensors as inputs, one measureing the 2nd turbos boost while the CRV is open and the CCV is closed to minimuze the drop during transition and the other being an exhaust pressure sensor to know when the effiency of the primary turbo is peaked. All stuff to learn with I guess

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

Titanium, come clean up my install. That is SO nice!!!!

enzo250

I love that this is becoming more frequent..

It's good to know there's people out there that appreciate good harnesses and wiring..

I've spent the past 10 years or so doing milspec harnesses and i wouldn't do them any other way...

TitaniumTT

Thanks, I'd be more than happy to give you some help next time I'm in the area. I can't take all the credit. 90% of the harness was built for me, I just finished it up and installed everything

I thought I knew alot about harnesses and wiring before I saw this guy in action. I got a few things re-pinned and picked up a few really neat little hints watching him work. I've spent most of my life in the marine world and marine wiring is VASTLY different than automotive wiring. I tried to scale everything down a bit and still found myself using wire that was too big, or over insulating things. I think what all that experience has giving me though is forethought and planning. Something about sending 20 wires down a conduit one at a time as opposed to planning everything out and doing a bundle at once.

There is definately a BIG difference between the harnesses like I got and you build and most of the junk that the kids with standalones put together. I remember reading a thread a while back called Haltech install tips and hints or something like that. Regardless, the kid was so proud of himself for using a 4 pin and a 2 pin weather-pack connector as a branch off his main harness for his injectors. Horribly soldered pins, torn cavity seals, I've personnally never seen something as horribly done as that, and he was giving ADVICE!

TitaniumTT

It's been a while and I finally finished ALL of the Motec related wiring so I thought I would give a quick update so certain people who subscribed wouldn't think I abondoned the PJ.

I mentioned earlier that I went with an AIM Strada dash. I HATE redundant sensors and I wanted to log things like oil temp and pressure, fuel pressure and have a few failsafes programed in for the sump and two stroke senders. This way I can limit revs, have a warning light, and view what is going on. The AIM dash was just a logical choice. So, here it is.



For mounting I built a piece that sits in exactely the same place as the factory dash, properly angles the AIM piece and sets it where I can see it best with the smaller diameter steering wheel.




It looks low, but I'm >5'10" and the rev lights on top are visible with the wheel in a comfortable position. The buttons are a little hard to get to, but it is definately managable.



The 10 lights on top are shift lights. The illuminate green to yellow to red as the redline is approached. It's a progressive warning if you will. The 6 lights on the side are programmable warning lights. I will have them arranged corresponding to the display. Warnings will be for Overheat Coolant, low oil pressure, overheat oil, low sump, low 2 stroke and either too high Labda or too low fuel pressure. Haven't decided yet.

EDIT - there are 6 LED's mounted on the aluminum dash that are not part of the AIM, these will be for turn signals, highbeams, low fuel, low washer, and brake light out/lowbrake fluid/e-brake that I pulled right from the idiot cluster. I should mention that I'm building a pod like but better than the 5one5 pod to house an analog boost gauge, voltometer and fuel gauge. Yes I know the AIM reads volts but I would rather the AIM display something more pertanient to the engine being right infront of me.

For communcations with the AIM I had to buy the USB adapter. I didn't get a good pic of it but I will. Basically I mounted it under the stereo against the surface. The comm cable plugs right it to the center. I also have my Start Engine button (more marine influence) My Boost Trim switch (with the yellow cap) that allows me to adjust boost, fuel pump switch - this is a SPDT On - Off (M)on switch, the Motec controls the fuel pump but this is wired inline so I can shut the fuel pump off while running to depressurize the system, of push it to the (M) position to prime the system and check for leaks.

TitaniumTT

I finally got my pins from MSD and was able to finish up the spark plug wires. Slo had mentioned above to keep the wires away from any groudned points They are well away even if it doesn't look like it in the pics. Thanks for the tip Slo



Yes, Yes I am THIS ****. It actually bothers me a touch that they aren't perfect but, what can ya do.



So after learning a little from this thread I set out and did some more research and decided on two things
1) I DEFINATELY want to monitor EMAP
2) I DEFINATELY want to monitor EGTS
3) I want to use both of these inputs for tuning purposes.

Unfortunately the spare dig/AT ins were hidden under the dash. I took a trip to my EMS guy and we did a little work to the AUX harness. He was able to break the heatshrink and open up the Deutsch connectors and add a few wires. Basically everything that was under the dash is now in the engine bay with the excpetion of one spare IGN output. I MAY in the future use that for an AI system. Time will tell.

As looking strait down from the passengers fender you can see everything is where it wants to be regarding the AUX harness. From the pics above you can see that a few other branches have been added. One for the EMAP, one for the EGT's, and a spare that will eventually be used for a front wheel speed sensor for the Traction Control. I'm not afraid to drill though and weld to the car, so I've been welding flange nuts onto the backsides so I can thread in a stainless M6x1 button head for all the adel clamps that I need.



Here we have a 3bar MAP sensor. Motec sells a really nice billet piece that the sensor bolts too from the top, the mounting piece then bolts to the firewall ( I had the dash out so again I welded on some flanged M6x1 nuts for mounting) or a bracket, there is an o-ring seal around the nipple and the port is threaded for 1/8" NPT. All of my MAP sensors are like this for one reason, so I can use -3AN braided line to prevent not only fluctuations but more importanly to prevent the silicon vac lines from popping off. My FPR is like this as well.



Under that little aluminum bracket sits Motecs Thermocoupler Amplifier (TCA) It takes the voltage from a standard K-type coupler and amplifies it to useable data for the Motec. The yellow connector goes strat to the probe, and the other end of the TCA connects to a 6pin Metri-pak connector. I used a 6 pin just in case in the future I wanted to log dual EGT's. Right now I'm running factory twin turbo's so the manifold is joined right after the exhaust ports. I wasn't confident in being able to get accurate/descernable readings from both rotors. My guru also kinda scoffed at dual readings. He said, and I quote, "the only time I will use an EGT probe for each cylinder is when I'm tuning or running on the absolute ragged edge so I know which cylinder to repair. The cold soldier is the dead soldier." Seeing as how we are not going to that much extreme here, one will suffice. However, if i ever do go single, I have the option without any more re-wiring.

TitaniumTT

This is the connection for the Lambda sensor. In one of my prvious posts you can see the damn think hanging on by an adel clamp. Not the nicest way to do it. The connector itself has releaseable tabs on the back of it so it can snap into place. A good buddy of mine whipped this up out of some 14 ga sheet stainless that I had lying around. A MUCH better way to keep that connector in one place.

[img]https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=321117&stc=1&d=1226996 052[img]

Keeping up with the whole, the dash is out lets wels on a few nuts/studs, I added two studs to the firewall to keep the entire AUX harness tucked up underneath the lip where it's nicely protected.



One was also added one the shock tower to keep the harness for the Prespool and Wastegate, the wheel speed/Spare AV/AT's.



That 8 pin connector will be for the wheel speed and the Spares. The other side of the connector will just have cavity plugs to keep the elements away from the wires.



I should mention that there are metri-pak connectors underneath the dash as well so if I need to access the spares for use for something other than underhood, I can.


Lastly, since I used the factory location for the Deutsch connectors and didn't put provisions in there for the wiper motor, I had to do something about that. I used to same hole-saw techique to fill the 3 voids left when I stripped out the air conditioning. I re-routed the wires behind the dash and from the motor itself, covered them in raychem and busted out the ole' step bit and put a large hole in the large hole that I just filled and sanded flush. These bulkhead connectors are great. Waterproof and oil/chemical resistant. I THOUGHT about using a deutche connector but c'mon, they're only wiper motor wires. When am I going to need to take them out? The only time I can think would be for painting the engine bay and I'll have the dash out anyway to plug all the hole from within, so this will do just fine. If I feel that I just don't like the look of it, than I'll do the deutsch or a similar connector but for now, the $1.29, or whatever it was, bulkhead fitting will do fine.



That's about it for now. Still hoping to have the first fire on or around Turkey day

ErnieT

iTrader: (2)

You sir do some amazing work! Not often I find myself saying that on this forum, but you have blown me away. This is by far the most professional wiring job I've seen.

rowtareh?

iTrader: (1)

Uh oh, getting props from The Big Perm. Oh ****!



Brian- What time frame are you looking at to having everything wrapped up? I am.....heading back east in a few months and I would to catch up with you since I could not see you at 7Stock.

ErnieT

iTrader: (2)

Ha ha. Seriously though, thats some top notch wiring! Im actually looking at the Motec M600.

TitaniumTT

Thanks alot Ernie, I appreciate it.
Would you be doing the tuning yourself or having a shop do it?

Justin, Hoping to get her running in about 3 weeks. What I want to do is get a few hundred miles under the clock then blow the whole thing apart and paint the engine bay, engine, tranny, and send out everything related to exhaut or intake for ceramic coating. I hoping she'll be on the road before X-mas till about New Years, and then down for the month of January, maybe Febuary while I wait for the ceramic coating to be down, dropvent the hood, things like that. That's the current plan anyway. It could change tomorrow.

ErnieT

iTrader: (2)

[quote=TitaniumTT;8745109]Thanks alot Ernie, I appreciate it.
Would you be doing the tuning yourself or having a shop do it?
quote]

Ray Wilson of PFSupercars would be doing everything. He's the wiz kid. I just drive it, lol..

TitaniumTT

Ah, He's somehwat local. Depending on how comfortable I feel tuning I may or may not be looking for someone to help out. Seeing what he's done with your car is incredible

Update - stabbing the motor in tonight and with any luck will be listening to the glorious note of unmuffled rotary exhaust later tonight. Should bump my stock up a little bit with the neighbors

rowtareh?

iTrader: (1)

I demand videos of the first start up! Don't make me ban your ***!

TitaniumTT

She runs!!!!!!




Vid to come if I can figure the camera thing out. I have no video recording except for the camera and uploading that might prove difficult. I can call you and you can touch yourself to the sounds of un-muffled rotary exhaust.




So now the fun begins. I'm going to start playing around with a few of the settings tomorrow and try to get the idle perfect before I tear it apart again to fix a few issues. Than back together for a few hundred miles on the road to make sure there are no more issues. Then back apart again for the coating and painting.... then it'll be done... in time for 7Stock XX

infinit1

Very nice! I wish I had the time to finish my project. Maybe next year(I think i said that for 3 years now). But it is nice to see another motec out there.

TitaniumTT

Ok guys, especially Aaron Time for some questions and hopefully help in the setup. Here's the relevant information, I'm looking for suggestions as to how to set all this up before the first venture on the road which will hopefully be in a week to 10 days.

There are 5 solenoids that control the turbos

Turbo Control Actuator - (TCA) Dual solenoids that trigger the turbo control on the manifold that bring's the Secondary online

Charge Relief Valve - (CRV) Relieves the boost pressure building between the secondary turbo and the Charge Control Valve

Charge Control Valve - (CCV) Keeps the boost seperated so the Primary doesn't try to pressurize the atmosphere through the secondary turbo before it comes online

Pre-Spool Valve - (PSV) Works like a wastegate to start spooling the Secondary Turbo before the TCA kicks in and brings it online

Wastegate - yeah, simple

So, We have
TCA - Aux 2
Wastegate - Inj 5
PSV - Inj 6
CRV - Inj 7
CCA - Inj 8

What I am thinking about doing here, how I would like it to run is simple. Set the boost to 10PSI. Run the PSV as a wastegate until the duty cycle reaches 100%. Once that happens, the TCA, CRV, CCV all fire. The wastegate can limit the boost boost during the transition and thereafter as well. The key here is though that under light light throttle I don't want to have an RPM set transition. I want it to be dependant on the manifold pressure. So, any thoughts or suggestions on how to set this up? I am open to any and all of them.

One specific question though - AV7 is setup as boost trim, have the micro 11 position switch that needs to be assigned to regulate boost. I would like to set it so that the min setting is ~7 PSI - wastegate and the max setting is 14PSI. How would one go about doing that? Thanks guys.... and Aaron - hint hint

By the way - It was great meeting you at 7Stock. I fully expect this car to be there next year.