Microtech Tuning matrix mode
#1
Tuning matrix mode
So I've finally fixed all the issues with everything as far as my ignition and now im having issues with my matrix mode.
How do you all tune matrix ? There are so many parameters to switch under each rpm.
I'm finding it difficult to tune due to being only able to see one specific rpm at a time. Also between 3500 and 4500 all it says is load is this an error and should be showing 4000 rpm ? There is also a window for min Ms. Idle map doesn't affect anything and only 1000 rpm map affects idle.
I'm running 1000cc x4 and 8.5:1 stock port.
Lt10s, recently found out my issue was my trailing wiring to the ecu was wrong and swapped wires now everything is correct.
I'm running a modified oil pressure regulator and it seems to be causing issues of smoking even with a restrictor in my oil feed, I hope the side seals didn't take any damage when the ignition was improperly setup, or during my neutral free Rev pulls running on just leading coils.
Engine has only 5000 miles. Als apex seals.
Just seems like with the higher oil pressure it's causing potential issues with blowby, idle oil pressure is around 60 psi at 1000 rpm and can go as high as 100'ish during coldn start acording to my stock gauge.
Working on everything, car starts right up, small revs are fine but when held at rpm it runs very rich.
Idle is around 12.5-13.0 afr with timing st 0 TDC at 500 rpm and 5 at 1000
How do you all tune matrix ? There are so many parameters to switch under each rpm.
I'm finding it difficult to tune due to being only able to see one specific rpm at a time. Also between 3500 and 4500 all it says is load is this an error and should be showing 4000 rpm ? There is also a window for min Ms. Idle map doesn't affect anything and only 1000 rpm map affects idle.
I'm running 1000cc x4 and 8.5:1 stock port.
Lt10s, recently found out my issue was my trailing wiring to the ecu was wrong and swapped wires now everything is correct.
I'm running a modified oil pressure regulator and it seems to be causing issues of smoking even with a restrictor in my oil feed, I hope the side seals didn't take any damage when the ignition was improperly setup, or during my neutral free Rev pulls running on just leading coils.
Engine has only 5000 miles. Als apex seals.
Just seems like with the higher oil pressure it's causing potential issues with blowby, idle oil pressure is around 60 psi at 1000 rpm and can go as high as 100'ish during coldn start acording to my stock gauge.
Working on everything, car starts right up, small revs are fine but when held at rpm it runs very rich.
Idle is around 12.5-13.0 afr with timing st 0 TDC at 500 rpm and 5 at 1000
#2
Sharp Claws
iTrader: (30)
the load screen is basically what used to be normal mode 4000+
to tune matrix you should be using a laptop and not a hand controller, this way you can see how one RPM map flows into another. it is time consuming but worthwhile to tune each RPM map, there is no easy way to make broad sweeping adjustments with the microtech.
to tune matrix you should be using a laptop and not a hand controller, this way you can see how one RPM map flows into another. it is time consuming but worthwhile to tune each RPM map, there is no easy way to make broad sweeping adjustments with the microtech.
#3
Engine, Not Motor
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The matrix table is just a 3D load table like any ECU.
Seeing one specific RPM? The matrix table should be filled with numbers. Can you post a screenshot of what you are seeing?
"LOAD" is the 4000 RPM band.
Once you enable the matrix table, all the other "normal" load maps are basically disabled. You will tune your idle in the matrix.
Have you read the manual?
http://microtechefi.com/download/ltmanual.pdf
I know it's not great, but it covers much of this.
Seeing one specific RPM? The matrix table should be filled with numbers. Can you post a screenshot of what you are seeing?
"LOAD" is the 4000 RPM band.
Once you enable the matrix table, all the other "normal" load maps are basically disabled. You will tune your idle in the matrix.
Have you read the manual?
http://microtechefi.com/download/ltmanual.pdf
I know it's not great, but it covers much of this.
#4
Tuning matrix mode
I've read the manual. Just trying to figure out how much injector open time I need is hard.
I'm going to be getting the car on the road soon for road tuning.
Remember how I thought my ecu was for an fd? Well its not, turned out my wiring for my trailing side of the ignition was backwards, t1 and t2 were wired backwards, I switched the wires and now everything works correctly.
Tach works and is accurate and solid, firing order is correct as well on trailing. Previously it was firing t2 when t1 should fire and t1 would fire when t2 should fire, and the tach was all kinds of jumpy and said double the rpm it should.
I did try a modified fc coil with two igniters and it did the same thing but the Rpms on the tach were half instead of double, then after swapping wires it all worked correctly but the coil was getting hot (which I figured having two igniters was messing up dwell time), I put a stock trailing coil on and now everything works great.
Now just have to get everything ready for a road tune.
I'm going to be getting the car on the road soon for road tuning.
Remember how I thought my ecu was for an fd? Well its not, turned out my wiring for my trailing side of the ignition was backwards, t1 and t2 were wired backwards, I switched the wires and now everything works correctly.
Tach works and is accurate and solid, firing order is correct as well on trailing. Previously it was firing t2 when t1 should fire and t1 would fire when t2 should fire, and the tach was all kinds of jumpy and said double the rpm it should.
I did try a modified fc coil with two igniters and it did the same thing but the Rpms on the tach were half instead of double, then after swapping wires it all worked correctly but the coil was getting hot (which I figured having two igniters was messing up dwell time), I put a stock trailing coil on and now everything works great.
Now just have to get everything ready for a road tune.
Last edited by wthdidusay82; 12-16-15 at 03:01 PM.
#5
the load screen is basically what used to be normal mode 4000+
to tune matrix you should be using a laptop and not a hand controller, this way you can see how one RPM map flows into another. it is time consuming but worthwhile to tune each RPM map, there is no easy way to make broad sweeping adjustments with the microtech.
to tune matrix you should be using a laptop and not a hand controller, this way you can see how one RPM map flows into another. it is time consuming but worthwhile to tune each RPM map, there is no easy way to make broad sweeping adjustments with the microtech.
#7
I'm having a friend help me with the load maps in matrix. I didn't do the *all maps the same* thing so I'm having to start out from scratch but it does idle and Rev fine but there are a lot of things that need worked on..
For example if u just tap the throttle it wants to bog but if u can get past that point it will Rev fine in short revs to like 4k
For example if u just tap the throttle it wants to bog but if u can get past that point it will Rev fine in short revs to like 4k
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#9
Everyone is ragging on my for going to matrix mode, I felt like matrix was the best place to spend my time tuning since that's where the final map will be.
Sadly like I said I forgot to hit the *all maps the same* so I'm kind of starting out from scratch in a way but I've got it running and idling.
Sadly like I said I forgot to hit the *all maps the same* so I'm kind of starting out from scratch in a way but I've got it running and idling.
#12
Engine, Not Motor
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The people ragging on you for using Matrix mode are probably the same people who think the Microtech is a competitive ECU in todays market. They are probably made all warm and fuzzy inside by the familiar "carburetor" paradigm of normal mode.
I agree with the above that matrix mode is the only way to get a tune approaching anything considered good. Normal mode is functional, and does work. And it's simple. Tuning in matrix mode gives you much more control and allows non-linear curves.
It just sucks that there isn't a way to generate a matrix table other than inputting the numbers manually using intuition.
Whatever you do, don't look at the software that comes with other ECUs, especially Megasquirt.
I don't suggest messing too much with the pump settings until you have the matrix table close.
I agree with the above that matrix mode is the only way to get a tune approaching anything considered good. Normal mode is functional, and does work. And it's simple. Tuning in matrix mode gives you much more control and allows non-linear curves.
It just sucks that there isn't a way to generate a matrix table other than inputting the numbers manually using intuition.
Whatever you do, don't look at the software that comes with other ECUs, especially Megasquirt.
I don't suggest messing too much with the pump settings until you have the matrix table close.
#16
Tuning matrix mode
It's a base made using a map my friend had in his s5 na turbo.
I'm having issues with it bogging and going lean on throttle/map changes (just slighty tapping the gas pedal or snapping throttle open), I'm not sure if I have a vacuum leak or need to change my pump settings and add more fuel and perhaps have it trigger sooner...I want to say it's a vacuum leak if just tapping the throttle makes it do it but I'm not certain.
I also have a flat spot in the mid rpms, I haven't tested it by taking it for a drive yet as I'm still getting everything else ready.
I'd like to do a vacuum leak/boost leak test somehow. What's the best way to do it?
I'm having issues with it bogging and going lean on throttle/map changes (just slighty tapping the gas pedal or snapping throttle open), I'm not sure if I have a vacuum leak or need to change my pump settings and add more fuel and perhaps have it trigger sooner...I want to say it's a vacuum leak if just tapping the throttle makes it do it but I'm not certain.
I also have a flat spot in the mid rpms, I haven't tested it by taking it for a drive yet as I'm still getting everything else ready.
I'd like to do a vacuum leak/boost leak test somehow. What's the best way to do it?
Last edited by wthdidusay82; 12-19-15 at 01:47 AM.
#17
Sharp Claws
iTrader: (30)
then id suggest adding more fuel in the upper rpm ranges for now to keep the curve linear.
a vacuum leak wont cause a lean tip in with a map sensor based ecu. its either your pump settings or the higher load settings. keep in mind even if you get to only 0"hg it will still read off 2psi setting.
a vacuum leak wont cause a lean tip in with a map sensor based ecu. its either your pump settings or the higher load settings. keep in mind even if you get to only 0"hg it will still read off 2psi setting.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 12-19-15 at 06:33 AM.
#18
Hmm.. really ? I guess it could just be my pump settings, I have it set to Map configuration in pump settings, i want to use tps based but My tps needs to be adjusted to work in an accurate full range so I haven't switched to tps mode yet , it will show 99% when throttle is at only 3/4
I need to fix that , I'm using an fd tps so I just have to rotate it and get it to read the whole throttle range correctly instead of going to 99% earlier then it should , currently it's calibrated to +11% to put it at 0% when the throttle is closed.
Currently using all map based settings for fuel curve etc as well , I don't plan on switching those.
I need to fix that , I'm using an fd tps so I just have to rotate it and get it to read the whole throttle range correctly instead of going to 99% earlier then it should , currently it's calibrated to +11% to put it at 0% when the throttle is closed.
Currently using all map based settings for fuel curve etc as well , I don't plan on switching those.
#19
Sharp Claws
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shouldn't need to switch to a tps based map, id suggest tuning it with the map based setting and enrichening your mid ranges 10"-2psi vacuum-boost and upping the pump settings until it reacts well. pump 1 is generally the only pump setting you need to adjust below your injector stage points. if it's still acting lazily, double check your fuel pressure.
#20
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Hmm.. really ? I guess it could just be my pump settings, I have it set to Map configuration in pump settings, i want to use tps based but My tps needs to be adjusted to work in an accurate full range so I haven't switched to tps mode yet , it will show 99% when throttle is at only 3/4
I need to fix that , I'm using an fd tps so I just have to rotate it and get it to read the whole throttle range correctly instead of going to 99% earlier then it should , currently it's calibrated to +11% to put it at 0% when the throttle is closed.
Currently using all map based settings for fuel curve etc as well , I don't plan on switching those.
I need to fix that , I'm using an fd tps so I just have to rotate it and get it to read the whole throttle range correctly instead of going to 99% earlier then it should , currently it's calibrated to +11% to put it at 0% when the throttle is closed.
Currently using all map based settings for fuel curve etc as well , I don't plan on switching those.
All the Microtech uses the TPS for is to determine whether the car is on idle or off idle. That's it. You don't need a full range TPS unless you plan on switching the pump to TPS based instead of MAP based. In fact the TPS on a Microtech can be nothing more than an on/off idle switch.
I generally recommend using the TPS as a basis for the pump settings but the default of MAP works very well for stock/street ports.
This may help you. It's geared towards the Megasquirt but the tuning advice applies to any standalone:
How To Megasquirt Your 2nd Gen RX-7: Basic Tuning
#22
I don't even think the idle settings do anything in matrix mode though , so how does tps being at zero affect anything ? I've tried making changes to the "idle" map and it does nothing. Only the 1000 rpm make makes noticeable changes in idle quality/afr.
#25
Tuning matrix mode
Well I went and tried making some adjustments to get rid of the lean spike, and my friend helping me says it makes no sense how much fuel we're dumping with these 1000cc injectors at such low rpm load, so tommorow I'm going to check and see if my fpr is causing pressure loss by removing the vacuum line to it and capping it off, and revving and seeing if fuel pressure drops, if it's not that I'm wondering if my walbro is having an issue.
I added a bunch of fuel to pump settings lowered the trigger point and added more pulses and it still went lean , but then went super rich. It's like the immediate fuel needed isn't coming in as fast as it should... something isn't right.
If not I'm not sur what it could be , all the injectors are brand new, the fuel filter was just replaced, and all the fuel lines are brand new. I'm running a parallell fuel rail setup with 6an lines in the bay.
Do i need a restrictor pill in my map line ? Does the length of the line to my map sensor on the ecu play a huge role ?
I added a bunch of fuel to pump settings lowered the trigger point and added more pulses and it still went lean , but then went super rich. It's like the immediate fuel needed isn't coming in as fast as it should... something isn't right.
If not I'm not sur what it could be , all the injectors are brand new, the fuel filter was just replaced, and all the fuel lines are brand new. I'm running a parallell fuel rail setup with 6an lines in the bay.
Do i need a restrictor pill in my map line ? Does the length of the line to my map sensor on the ecu play a huge role ?
Last edited by wthdidusay82; 12-19-15 at 10:24 PM.