Megasquirt Fuel Pump not getting signal from MS3X.
#1
Fuel Pump not getting signal from MS3X.
My fuel pump is not coming on with the fuel pump Test, nor dose it come on for the 2 second prime when the key is turned on. I can run a jumper from the Squirt side of the fuel pump relay to ground and the pump comes on. Is there something I'm missing? Also Not getting any RPM, not sure if the two are related or not. Also posted on the MSExtra forum.
Last edited by spokanerxdude; 10-08-15 at 07:14 AM.
#3
When i use the jimstim to power things up I don't get the 2sec prime signal. When i use the test fetcher in tunerstudio with the jimstim i also get nothing all i do get is the test mode lite and the Ready lite but nothing else.
Not sure if it means anything but the tacho lite on the stimX is on all the time and the "Not RPM Synced" lite is on in tunerstudio.
Not sure if it means anything but the tacho lite on the stimX is on all the time and the "Not RPM Synced" lite is on in tunerstudio.
#4
This is a v3 ms3/ms3x board setup to run an 13b rotary with a GM TBI, TPS, IAC, a VW 4 coil pack and stock Mazda CAS, the board mods setup for the stock GM IAC, and stock Mazda CAS VR's. Only other mod is the Clock on the ms3 board, and I think i have the JP3 jumper on the ms3x board can't remember ill check when i get home around 1PM PCT today
#5
MegaSquirt Mod
My fuel pump is not coming on with the fuel pump Test, nor dose it come on for the 2 second prime when the key is turned on. I can run a jumper from the Squirt side of the fuel pump relay to ground and the pump comes on. Is there something I'm missing? Also Not getting any RPM, not sure if the two are related or not. Also posted on the MSExtra forum.
#7
Engine, Not Motor
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You're at the point where you need to trace the whole fuel pump trigger circuit from the microcontroller out to the final drive transistor. It's common for that transistor to blow. Can be replaced by a more robust unit. Just step through the whole thing with a jumper installed from 5V to the pin on the controller socket that leads to the drive circuit (off hand I don't remember which...look up in schematic ).
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#8
You're at the point where you need to trace the whole fuel pump trigger circuit from the microcontroller out to the final drive transistor. It's common for that transistor to blow. Can be replaced by a more robust unit. Just step through the whole thing with a jumper installed from 5V to the pin on the controller socket that leads to the drive circuit (off hand I don't remember which...look up in schematic ).
So I finished all of the pre-start stuff and tried to start the truck, it pops and snorts but no start so here is a .csv file for you to look at, it's anything but good looking. Thanks for your direction on this.
#9
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That's an ignition log. Need to see a regular log.
Generally popping and no start needs more fuel is needed. Assuming timing is correct. You can disable the injectors then crank with a timing light to make sure the pointer is at least lose to the pulley mark.
Generally popping and no start needs more fuel is needed. Assuming timing is correct. You can disable the injectors then crank with a timing light to make sure the pointer is at least lose to the pulley mark.
#11
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In that log the maximum RPM seen is 43 RPM.
Either there's something wrong with your trigger settings/VR circuit, or someone is manually cranking the engine over with a ratchet.
So looking back at the ignition capture, the 2 tooth wheel looks basically OK. The 12 tooth wheel is all over the place. Missing pulses.
Are the pots adjusted correctly?
Either there's something wrong with your trigger settings/VR circuit, or someone is manually cranking the engine over with a ratchet.
So looking back at the ignition capture, the 2 tooth wheel looks basically OK. The 12 tooth wheel is all over the place. Missing pulses.
Are the pots adjusted correctly?
#12
In that log the maximum RPM seen is 43 RPM.
Either there's something wrong with your trigger settings/VR circuit, or someone is manually cranking the engine over with a ratchet.
So looking back at the ignition capture, the 2 tooth wheel looks basically OK. The 12 tooth wheel is all over the place. Missing pulses.
Are the pots adjusted correctly?
Either there's something wrong with your trigger settings/VR circuit, or someone is manually cranking the engine over with a ratchet.
So looking back at the ignition capture, the 2 tooth wheel looks basically OK. The 12 tooth wheel is all over the place. Missing pulses.
Are the pots adjusted correctly?
The VR's I adjusted all the way counter clockwise then back clockwise 1/4 turn. Now on the VR's I'm using the ms3x board for ignition so I would use those VR's for adjustment right? Thinking it is but just checking.
Last edited by spokanerxdude; 10-18-15 at 03:10 PM.
#14
Well that didn't work, Dryer broke so priority's were changed, (you married men know what that means). Also new motor mounts and trans mounts came in the mail, got the starter & trans mount in yesterday. will get my new motor mounts in today and will try and get the pickup started, wish me luck!
#19
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RPM jumping from 0 to 80 RPM in the datalog.
Looking at the composite log, tooth capture is fine. However the 2 two tooth VR is inverted. Swap the 2nd trigger to falling edge and see if you get an RPM signal.
If that works, then make sure your VR polarity is set correctly on the board.
In TunerStudio while cranking, I am betting you are not seeing a steady RPM of about 150RPM.
Looking at the composite log, tooth capture is fine. However the 2 two tooth VR is inverted. Swap the 2nd trigger to falling edge and see if you get an RPM signal.
If that works, then make sure your VR polarity is set correctly on the board.
In TunerStudio while cranking, I am betting you are not seeing a steady RPM of about 150RPM.
#20
RPM jumping from 0 to 80 RPM in the datalog.
Looking at the composite log, tooth capture is fine. However the 2 two tooth VR is inverted. Swap the 2nd trigger to falling edge and see if you get an RPM signal.
If that works, then make sure your VR polarity is set correctly on the board.
In TunerStudio while cranking, I am betting you are not seeing a steady RPM of about 150RPM.
Looking at the composite log, tooth capture is fine. However the 2 two tooth VR is inverted. Swap the 2nd trigger to falling edge and see if you get an RPM signal.
If that works, then make sure your VR polarity is set correctly on the board.
In TunerStudio while cranking, I am betting you are not seeing a steady RPM of about 150RPM.
#21
RPM jumping from 0 to 80 RPM in the datalog.
Looking at the composite log, tooth capture is fine. However the 2 two tooth VR is inverted. Swap the 2nd trigger to falling edge and see if you get an RPM signal.
If that works, then make sure your VR polarity is set correctly on the board.
In TunerStudio while cranking, I am betting you are not seeing a steady RPM of about 150RPM.
Looking at the composite log, tooth capture is fine. However the 2 two tooth VR is inverted. Swap the 2nd trigger to falling edge and see if you get an RPM signal.
If that works, then make sure your VR polarity is set correctly on the board.
In TunerStudio while cranking, I am betting you are not seeing a steady RPM of about 150RPM.
I'm assuming by 2nd trigger you mean crank trigger but i wasn't sure so i did both crank and cam. Looks like things are still all over the map but I'm not exactly sure what I'm looking at.
MSQ IS: 15.03.00
CRANK MSL: 15.30.58
CAM MSL: 15.36.13
#22
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Meant the CAM signal. Set it to falling edge then try to start. Datalog both the regular log and a composite trigger log.
If I remember you are using the 2nd gen CAS. Pull it out of the block and spin it by hand. Post datalogs of that.
You still aren't seeing an RPM signal.
If I remember you are using the 2nd gen CAS. Pull it out of the block and spin it by hand. Post datalogs of that.
You still aren't seeing an RPM signal.
#23
Here are the msl and composite logs, CAS out, turning by hand, Falling edge. Sense there were no other noises i could here my fuel pump cycling on and off. if i went faster is stayed on most of the time. pulled my injector and coil fuses during all this.
Last edited by spokanerxdude; 02-20-16 at 04:25 PM.
#24
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I think your CAM sensor (2 tooth wheel) is wired backwards. Check your wiring as well as configuration of jumpers on board, then switch back to rising edge when corrected.
But, I'm seeing RPM on that datalog and it's fairly stable as far as what one would expect from hand turning.
But, I'm seeing RPM on that datalog and it's fairly stable as far as what one would expect from hand turning.
#25
I did take things apart and check the jumpers and all was OK but when i put it all back together i now have no rpm. I'm so frustrated that I decide screw it and I'm ordering an v3.57 board and starting all over again, I'll work on the v3.0 board later, I have other cars I can put it in.