nbjeff

After a year drift build I need help tuning my ecu. Off of Arron Cakes base tune it floods a lot so I feel like it's going to need some work. Here's my general list:
S5 13b Bridgeport w/fresh rebuild, never started
Ms3-Pro
850cc primary ID injectors
1000cc secondary ID injectors
Custom intake manifold with 80mm throttle body
Walbro pump , fpr running 50psi
Borgwarner s366

Any help you guys can give me to get this beast running would be much appreciated

spokanerxdude

iTrader: (4)

Hi nbjeff. Glad you're almost up and running. Need to upload your .msq file so people can look at it, then they can give you better advice.

Rotate86

make sure you have the required fuel setup correctly for your Injectors. make sure tps is calibrated and that you have zeroed your timing marks. I am assuming you have done this all ready.

nbjeff

i have my tune attached. one thing i noticed tonight was that injector a and b the primaries sound like an electrical shock whenever they get power, which i think is the ecu doing its priming pulse? not entirely sure if thats something

and yes my tps, afr, and sensors are calibrated

my timing i set to -5 or the yellow mark from the CAS with a timing light off of L1

whenever i try to start it after i blow the fuel out from the lower spark plug holes it really sounds like it wants to, maybe gets 4 or 5 good puffs, then it just stops trying and just spins, even with the fuel cut engaged the same thing happens, odd right?

nbjeff

i am going to completely start fresh with a base tune and then go from there tomorrow

nbjeff

this is my latest tune. i got it to almost start with lowering the cranking pulse a ton and deleting the priming pulse. after about 400 rpm it sounds like it floods again, if i could get some help with this that would be great. any advice also is very appreciated.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Even with a Bridgeport, my base tune on 850CC primaries is going to be way too much fuel. It's rich with 550CC injectors.

Scale about 30% out of the VE table and give it another try.

Only problem is that now it's probably thoroughly flooded. Having lots of experience starting fresh bridgeports on less than ideal maps (getting it to start reliably is going to take work) I'd suggest to cut losses and push start with another vehicle. That way you can skip all the startup stuff and just get to adjusting the VE table and some runtime on the engine (which will help immensely).

nbjeff

these are two data logs after lowering the VE table by 30% or more

getting more popping and banging after cranking it for a few seconds now, makes me feel like I'm making progress.

should i keep lowering the fuel more and more?

nbjeff

Heres my latest tune that i messed with and data log. You can see that once it starts to take off the rpm's jump but it just doesn't catch enough i guess. I also found out that at least while cranking both the leading coil and trailing coil are both on the yellow timing mark or the -5 degree mark. I'm not sure if thats normal at 300 rpm but again any help on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Arron for helping me get a little bit further and with your whole install in general, as i wouldn't be this far without you. Thx Guys

nbjeff

here is a log of me deflooding with the lower spark plugs out. as you can see once it jumps above 300 rpm the spark advance is shown to be around 17-18 i don't believe that is normal, anyone got any thoughts on this one?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

If you look at my timing map, that's exactly what it says to do on the map. Which is why after cranking it is running that much timing.

The popping is caused by the mixture being too lean, and the timing advancing into it during start.

Ignore the trailing during cranking. Make sure the leading lines up with the leading timing mark on the pulley.

Follow my advice for starting in this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/megasquirt-f...-help-1094828/

nbjeff

this is a data log of me being pulled by a friend.. after about a half hour of this i was still unable to get the car to idle. one idea is that my engine is getting no air because when i press on the throttle the map sensor does not change dramatically.. still need help on this thing

nbjeff

here is my current tune and a log right before the previous one that is much longer in length

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

A bridgeport is going to produce almost no vacuum signal at cranking.

You can verify the MAP sensor is working by sucking on the hose. You should be able to suck quite a vacuum by using your tongue as a check valve.

If those AFRs on the datalog are correct, the engine is drowning in fuel.

peejay

When I converted a street port Turbo II to half bridge (video somewhere deep down on my YouTube channel), it ran CRAZY RICH at idle and very low throttle openings, with no other changes to the setup or the engine other than the eyebrows. I pulled the engine apart, added the eyebrows to the secondaries, and put it back together.

Then I had to add fuel everywhere over 70kpa and 2000rpm But under that? Drowning in fuel.

Even with that I am surprised that it isn't running. When I switched my car from MS1 to MS2/Extra, I set it up as a 1308cc rotary. Apparently you cannot do that with MS2/Extra set up with a distributor, because it was reading double RPM. And so therefore injecting twice as much fuel as it should have been. Big clouds of whitish blue smoke and wideband pegged rich at 9:1 and the engine was still running. MSD can fire anything

nbjeff

okay so I've got it running, i had a gasket that was blocking the intake from getting hardly any air, really stupid but I'm glad it was something stupid, Now after like two days of running great this is what happened.I was driving it all was good, then i tuned the car off for probably 5 mins and started it back up drove it a few feet and stopped it for some photos, then nothing literally it will not start after that at alllll. Figured it might just be hot start issues but nope tried again the next morning and nothing. i can get it to start but it revs to like 2500rpm backfiring like I've never heard before and then shuts off and dies. Now I've gotten it to sound like its going to start every crank but it won't go above 350rpm and won't catch no matter how much i deflood or don't it just won't run. and if it does it sounds literally awful like a broken chainsaw sound. i have an appt to get exhaust done next Thursday so id like to get this back up and running by then. ill send some data logs and my tune currently of when it revs like crazy and when it won't start.

nbjeff

Datalogs and tune

Rotate86

Iv had a very similar thing. wasted so much time diagnosing it. and it had corrupted firmware. re installed firmware and was fine.

nbjeff

Okay I've redone literally everything. I checked out my entire intake and exhaust system cleaned everything and put it all back together and its all perfect. I reinstalled firmware on the ecu, completely wiped it started a new tune literally everything to make sure no bugs got in there... and guess what, well it runs but umm it still sounds like a broken chainsaw. Sounds like its running on one rotor, i checked spark from all the plugs tonight and everything is running just as it should, checked out all my electrical and literally everything. I have exhausted all of my options here and i still have no clue what made it just randomly stop running great. I mean it was running fantastic! like could not be happier and then just, nope nothin. so anyway here is a data log from last night running, after a few of running it started to backfire a ton so i shut her down... let me know what ya guys think!

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Test your fuel injectors. I don't know the history of your setup, but whenever I find a sudden issue like this, combined with one rotor running or a chainsaw noise, it is a bad injector.

Especially easy to tell if now the engine is a few points leaner.

nbjeff

Sorry double posted

nbjeff

Turns out my spark plugs are fouling. Put a new leading in and it ran great. Next day had the same problem... So after a lot of revving and cleaning it's working fine again. Using Denzo 29's for leading and 31's for trailing. Probably need to switch to ngk's

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

If your plugs are fouling then there's too much fuel.

nbjeff

Long story short i cracked my rear iron and had to rebuild my engine. After learning that process for the first time I've started tuning my car and i have a data log of about 7psi of boost up to 4500rpm's was just wondering if someone wouldn't mind looking it over for me and letting me know how it looks.