Spray Foam Widebody Kit. "That's Right" !!
10-13-04, 03:38 PM
#26
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Gargamel,
I have a friend who has been playing around with fiberglass on some interior door panels for another car. Can you find out what kind of foam this guy used? In the pic it looks like he's holding a can of that "Great Stuff" you can buy at Home Depot.
Thanks.
I have a friend who has been playing around with fiberglass on some interior door panels for another car. Can you find out what kind of foam this guy used? In the pic it looks like he's holding a can of that "Great Stuff" you can buy at Home Depot.
Thanks.
10-13-04, 09:37 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by skotx
Gargamel,
I have a friend who has been playing around with fiberglass on some interior door panels for another car. Can you find out what kind of foam this guy used? In the pic it looks like he's holding a can of that "Great Stuff" you can buy at Home Depot.
Thanks.
I have a friend who has been playing around with fiberglass on some interior door panels for another car. Can you find out what kind of foam this guy used? In the pic it looks like he's holding a can of that "Great Stuff" you can buy at Home Depot.
Thanks.
All that foam reminds me of the NSX to F50 conversion.
10-14-04, 04:50 AM
#30
Rotary Freak
problem with the home market foam is that there are just to many big airbubbles in it. in specialized stores you can find high density foams which dry faster, you can put color pigment in it and is far more easier to sand into forms.
Damned, I'm giving away my tricks.. gotta stop here, you have to find out the rest yourselves
Damned, I'm giving away my tricks.. gotta stop here, you have to find out the rest yourselves
10-16-04, 04:24 PM
#33
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Originally Posted by Speedworks
problem with the home market foam is that there are just to many big airbubbles in it. in specialized stores you can find high density foams which dry faster, you can put color pigment in it and is far more easier to sand into forms.
Damned, I'm giving away my tricks.. gotta stop here, you have to find out the rest yourselves
Damned, I'm giving away my tricks.. gotta stop here, you have to find out the rest yourselves
im starting my custom wide body project soon and id love to knwo more of your tricks
please pm me or email me Jnisco21@optonline.net
and i really love that FC, it looks real nice
10-16-04, 04:45 PM
#34
yeah
very nice way to do a cheap kit. I mean you can put all your personal tastes in it!
and speedworks is right you can get much better foam from the right places, it's be denser with less bubbles and actually weigh less. also the real foam is much easier to use.
and yeah if he made a mold of the kit then he could also sell them to everybody.
It sure is easy to say make a mold, but there's alot of technique involved, and most guys keep thier tricks to themselves(trick of the trade for a reason)I'm a moldmaker (mostly for bronze castings,deco concrete,etc- I'm making my first venture into auto molds by making a one piece tilt forward front end for my 1971 GMC C-10, I'll keep ya posted and post pics)
but basically if he glassed the foam right and really sealed all the openings, it won't rot on him, or at least take a long long time to do so. and yeah, got some damn good skills for a garage mech. it's really really REALLY hard to make 2 symmetrical pieces on different sides of the body, got to be just right or else it looks all kinds of fubar.
keep up the good work,
Marc
just for kicks, heres a few pics of some molds I've made.....
very nice way to do a cheap kit. I mean you can put all your personal tastes in it!
and speedworks is right you can get much better foam from the right places, it's be denser with less bubbles and actually weigh less. also the real foam is much easier to use.
and yeah if he made a mold of the kit then he could also sell them to everybody.
It sure is easy to say make a mold, but there's alot of technique involved, and most guys keep thier tricks to themselves(trick of the trade for a reason)I'm a moldmaker (mostly for bronze castings,deco concrete,etc- I'm making my first venture into auto molds by making a one piece tilt forward front end for my 1971 GMC C-10, I'll keep ya posted and post pics)
but basically if he glassed the foam right and really sealed all the openings, it won't rot on him, or at least take a long long time to do so. and yeah, got some damn good skills for a garage mech. it's really really REALLY hard to make 2 symmetrical pieces on different sides of the body, got to be just right or else it looks all kinds of fubar.
keep up the good work,
Marc
just for kicks, heres a few pics of some molds I've made.....
10-17-04, 09:50 AM
#36
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nice.... if i tried something like that.... i'd end up having one of those gladiator ***** that you roll around in.... but it'd be more like a lopsided triangle...
anyway, how many cans of that stuff did it take the guy to make 1 fender (roughly)
anyway, how many cans of that stuff did it take the guy to make 1 fender (roughly)
10-18-04, 10:08 AM
#39
yeah that takes forever tho...I have done stuff like this and when you want something symmetrical what you need to do is build some kind of skeleton out of balsa or something and then fill it in once you have both sides symmetrically lined up. After you do this the best thing do do would be to cover it with fiberglass cloth to keep it flat and then bondo over it and sand it smooth. me personally I prefer to use balsa over a balsa skeleton and then the same process from there. My original dash kit i used the urethane foam which is the best to use than that home depot stuff. It is a two part Urethane foam if you guys are interested in looking it up. Here is a site with really good prices on any of this stuff http://www.shopmaninc/polyesters.inc Any how the stuff has a tendancy to end and break and warp when it fully cures and you have to get the mix pretty even to do it just right and to get a good consistancy or it gets brittle or soft but for the most part fun to work with if you dont go too think with it over a certain area. Hope some of this helps. I thought of doing this to some fenders but it would be difficult to keep symmetrical. Probably why the guy didnt make a mold and sell them because it was a one off he did without having to spend all the time making sure it was perfect, which is probably the most painful part of it all -- Derek
11-13-04, 03:06 PM
#41
Rotary Freak
Well I"ll let you inon some tricks, since I'm in europe it won't hurt that much, will it?
First of all to the Deco maker dude. You got some nice latex mouldings there ;-)
Back to the moulding part and this guys widebody.
he did it alright but if he just "glued" the foam against the original steel fender,sanding it into form, fiberglassing it on the steel and sanding it back with filler it will give a nice result but will not be permanent.
For that matter, feberglassing polyester on any other material(steel/plastic) will not stick together due to a difference in expanding/shrinking coefficient. It WILL crack, the time it will take will depend on the method used to mould it in.
IF you have patience AND the skill to make pre-mould pieces you WILL be able to make parts that fit so perfect that you'll have to be within 10cm's to see that it wasn't moulded in.
Foam. In specialized Glasfiber stores (not home market or whatever) you can foam variants to whatever you need. Variant in expanding coefficient , colour, foam ensity, aplications for different polyester/epoxy variants,... the works
If you want to build a wide body like this you have 2 ways to go:
1. you have spare steel bodyparts to blend in your foam construction. Main advantage is that if you do this correctly and make decent mould afterwards you will have yourself a GF parts that is as good ad OEM fitment.
Disadvantage, your sample part wil break someday and ruin your chance of reproducing a mould form if it gets worn out or breaks.
2. you make a mould of your cars steel body part (original shape) and put it back on.
make a mould, foam/sand on th GF part you made fill it, sand it paint it, then mould again and there you have yourpart.
Advantage, you can build youtr parts apart from your car and keep driving.
you can always go back to stock in case of selling the car. etc
Disadvantage: carefull mould making for good fitment, time robbing.
If it's upto me, I pick option 2.
Making GF parts is no big deal because it's thesame as making the mould or whatever. Cost are relatively low.
What makes GF parts (out of a mould) expensive is al the preparation.
your pre-mould part has to be flawlessly sanded, sprayed and varnished to get a good result, have no release problems or any difficulties of that kind. (and those ARE difficulties, trust me.)
Need more info?
You can find me on MSN messenger (hotmail) by: streetwizer@hotmail.com
Greetz
Neal
First of all to the Deco maker dude. You got some nice latex mouldings there ;-)
Back to the moulding part and this guys widebody.
he did it alright but if he just "glued" the foam against the original steel fender,sanding it into form, fiberglassing it on the steel and sanding it back with filler it will give a nice result but will not be permanent.
For that matter, feberglassing polyester on any other material(steel/plastic) will not stick together due to a difference in expanding/shrinking coefficient. It WILL crack, the time it will take will depend on the method used to mould it in.
IF you have patience AND the skill to make pre-mould pieces you WILL be able to make parts that fit so perfect that you'll have to be within 10cm's to see that it wasn't moulded in.
Foam. In specialized Glasfiber stores (not home market or whatever) you can foam variants to whatever you need. Variant in expanding coefficient , colour, foam ensity, aplications for different polyester/epoxy variants,... the works
If you want to build a wide body like this you have 2 ways to go:
1. you have spare steel bodyparts to blend in your foam construction. Main advantage is that if you do this correctly and make decent mould afterwards you will have yourself a GF parts that is as good ad OEM fitment.
Disadvantage, your sample part wil break someday and ruin your chance of reproducing a mould form if it gets worn out or breaks.
2. you make a mould of your cars steel body part (original shape) and put it back on.
make a mould, foam/sand on th GF part you made fill it, sand it paint it, then mould again and there you have yourpart.
Advantage, you can build youtr parts apart from your car and keep driving.
you can always go back to stock in case of selling the car. etc
Disadvantage: carefull mould making for good fitment, time robbing.
If it's upto me, I pick option 2.
Making GF parts is no big deal because it's thesame as making the mould or whatever. Cost are relatively low.
What makes GF parts (out of a mould) expensive is al the preparation.
your pre-mould part has to be flawlessly sanded, sprayed and varnished to get a good result, have no release problems or any difficulties of that kind. (and those ARE difficulties, trust me.)
Need more info?
You can find me on MSN messenger (hotmail) by: streetwizer@hotmail.com
Greetz
Neal
11-13-04, 06:02 PM
#43
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