QuietCoat Sound Dampening
03-26-08, 01:57 PM
#153
I may try it. Plan on doing wheel wells (removing underliners) and underboody (removing carpet)
Also, trunk. I have fatmat in doors already.
Have a question. What is that black stuff on a picture?
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...8&d=1186428172
I have only door covers and then metal under it. Maybe I'm missing something?
Also, trunk. I have fatmat in doors already.
Have a question. What is that black stuff on a picture?
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...8&d=1186428172
I have only door covers and then metal under it. Maybe I'm missing something?
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FD Brian (02-02-20)
03-26-08, 07:56 PM
#154
I may try it. Plan on doing wheel wells (removing underliners) and underboody (removing carpet)
Also, trunk. I have fatmat in doors already.
Have a question. What is that black stuff on a picture?
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...8&d=1186428172
I have only door covers and then metal under it. Maybe I'm missing something?
Also, trunk. I have fatmat in doors already.
Have a question. What is that black stuff on a picture?
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...8&d=1186428172
I have only door covers and then metal under it. Maybe I'm missing something?
I wouldn't worry too much about painting the plastics as I did. The theory behind Quiet Coat?Car is it bonds to the metal to stop vibrations. As long as you paint the inside of the metal door skin, you'll be just fine I would think.
Make sense?
09-29-09, 11:05 AM
#158
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For anyone who's made it this far into the thread, I have a few experience points to share.
A few years ago I had a 2000 Civic Hatch - motor swap, blah blah. The thing rattled like crazy on the inside and generally sounded "tinny." I wanted that quiet - Lexus type silence in the car.
First thing I did was strip the interior and cover the entire car with RAAMAT (similar to Dynamat but cheaper/better). That was a HORRIFIC PAIN IN THE ***. Cutting squares to fit was not fun, and laying them was less fun.
Then I bought some fabric tape and wrapped all loose metal objects (mostly door lock rods, loose hanging plastic wires, etc). Then I covered the raamat with Ensolite (basically closed cell foam).
Lastly, I laid down 1/2" thick carpet padding under the carpet, then cut 3" x 3" squares of the carpet padding and stuffed all the interior panels FULL of it.
Results:
1) The butyl/aluminum mat products (dynamat, raamat, etc) don't do much for quieting interior NOISE. They do the most for killing vibrations. Worked great for making my subwoofer sound clean and crisp. I had one 10" powered by a 35W interior speaker channel and it was the cleanest, crispest sound I've ever had in a car after the mat.
2) The carpet padding can stink. Careful where you put this because some places drain water and if/when it gets in the padding, it will give off a mildew smell.
3) The most noticeabl difference in interior noise reduction was stuffing the panels full of carpet padding. No joke... I had bad trailing arm bushings in the rear that would clunk LOUD over bumps and after stuffing the rear panels full of carpet padding, the clunk was GONE. It was still there, I just couldn't hear it inside the car.
If I were to do it all over again this is what I would do:
1) Paint the entire interior with Quiet coat. Much easier to get into corners and small places than sticking dynamat into is.
2) Buy a SMALL amount of dynamat and place squares of it in the center of each individual body panel. My mistake was covering the car with it before. You only need to deaden the panel and it's not necessary to use more than a reasonable sized square in the center of the panel. I'd wait until the Quiet Coat is dry and stick the dynamat right to it.
3) Line all edges of plastic interior pieces that touch each other with fabric tape.
4) Stuff all body panels you can with Closed cell foam (Ensolite is good, but $$$).
5) Lay down carpet padding under places you know won't get wet.
I plan to do this with my FD over the winter. Right now it's the squeakiest rattliest POS I've ever owned. More so than my civic hatch was. I attribute most of it to bad bushings in the rear and large wheels with rubber band tires.
A few years ago I had a 2000 Civic Hatch - motor swap, blah blah. The thing rattled like crazy on the inside and generally sounded "tinny." I wanted that quiet - Lexus type silence in the car.
First thing I did was strip the interior and cover the entire car with RAAMAT (similar to Dynamat but cheaper/better). That was a HORRIFIC PAIN IN THE ***. Cutting squares to fit was not fun, and laying them was less fun.
Then I bought some fabric tape and wrapped all loose metal objects (mostly door lock rods, loose hanging plastic wires, etc). Then I covered the raamat with Ensolite (basically closed cell foam).
Lastly, I laid down 1/2" thick carpet padding under the carpet, then cut 3" x 3" squares of the carpet padding and stuffed all the interior panels FULL of it.
Results:
1) The butyl/aluminum mat products (dynamat, raamat, etc) don't do much for quieting interior NOISE. They do the most for killing vibrations. Worked great for making my subwoofer sound clean and crisp. I had one 10" powered by a 35W interior speaker channel and it was the cleanest, crispest sound I've ever had in a car after the mat.
2) The carpet padding can stink. Careful where you put this because some places drain water and if/when it gets in the padding, it will give off a mildew smell.
3) The most noticeabl difference in interior noise reduction was stuffing the panels full of carpet padding. No joke... I had bad trailing arm bushings in the rear that would clunk LOUD over bumps and after stuffing the rear panels full of carpet padding, the clunk was GONE. It was still there, I just couldn't hear it inside the car.
If I were to do it all over again this is what I would do:
1) Paint the entire interior with Quiet coat. Much easier to get into corners and small places than sticking dynamat into is.
2) Buy a SMALL amount of dynamat and place squares of it in the center of each individual body panel. My mistake was covering the car with it before. You only need to deaden the panel and it's not necessary to use more than a reasonable sized square in the center of the panel. I'd wait until the Quiet Coat is dry and stick the dynamat right to it.
3) Line all edges of plastic interior pieces that touch each other with fabric tape.
4) Stuff all body panels you can with Closed cell foam (Ensolite is good, but $$$).
5) Lay down carpet padding under places you know won't get wet.
I plan to do this with my FD over the winter. Right now it's the squeakiest rattliest POS I've ever owned. More so than my civic hatch was. I attribute most of it to bad bushings in the rear and large wheels with rubber band tires.
10-10-09, 10:47 PM
#159
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Great thread, thanks for taking the time.. all of it.. and making this option known. Will undertake this process over the winter. The noise in my cabin has always detracted from the driving experience for me over long periods of time, and I think the drop in DB will balance out the driving sound nicely. Thanks
05-31-10, 09:43 AM
#160
thanks for all the info on this david. i've been wanting to do this for awhile now. i'm wondering how you would apply this to the doors - they're hollow right? would you have to spray the inner surface (the outer skin of the car) though holes in the outer surface (interior side)? not sure if my question makes sense.
i think i might be easier to use something like dynamat for the doors, but this stuff looks like a good option for places like the trunk and underbelly.
i think i might be easier to use something like dynamat for the doors, but this stuff looks like a good option for places like the trunk and underbelly.
06-01-10, 07:28 AM
#161
thanks for all the info on this david. i've been wanting to do this for awhile now. i'm wondering how you would apply this to the doors - they're hollow right? would you have to spray the inner surface (the outer skin of the car) though holes in the outer surface (interior side)? not sure if my question makes sense.
i think i might be easier to use something like dynamat for the doors, but this stuff looks like a good option for places like the trunk and underbelly.
i think i might be easier to use something like dynamat for the doors, but this stuff looks like a good option for places like the trunk and underbelly.
06-01-10, 10:54 PM
#162
thanks for all the info on this david. i've been wanting to do this for awhile now. i'm wondering how you would apply this to the doors - they're hollow right? would you have to spray the inner surface (the outer skin of the car) though holes in the outer surface (interior side)? not sure if my question makes sense.
i think i might be easier to use something like dynamat for the doors, but this stuff looks like a good option for places like the trunk and underbelly.
i think i might be easier to use something like dynamat for the doors, but this stuff looks like a good option for places like the trunk and underbelly.
-Dan
06-02-10, 10:58 AM
#164
Rotary Freak
There is spray on that is much better than Quiet Kote but it doesnt come in a spray paint style can.
Coming from a background in car audio back in the late 90's early 00's I have plenty of experience with this stuff. To be honest with you it's good but most people don't use it as recommended. I really only prefer to use it in hard to get to places like inside of the door and inside of the rear quarters. From there you should use some FATMAT behind the door panels (outside of the door frame, most people get this wrong as well), Then do another other surfaces you can find that need it. I would even suggest ripping up the carpet and doing the floor as this usually makes a noticeable difference.
Some situations theres just nothing you can do, take my 96 Sebring coupe for example (Dodge Avenger) You can sound proof it all you want but will still gets lots of road noise from the poor design, tight suspension and frame-less windows.
Coming from a background in car audio back in the late 90's early 00's I have plenty of experience with this stuff. To be honest with you it's good but most people don't use it as recommended. I really only prefer to use it in hard to get to places like inside of the door and inside of the rear quarters. From there you should use some FATMAT behind the door panels (outside of the door frame, most people get this wrong as well), Then do another other surfaces you can find that need it. I would even suggest ripping up the carpet and doing the floor as this usually makes a noticeable difference.
Some situations theres just nothing you can do, take my 96 Sebring coupe for example (Dodge Avenger) You can sound proof it all you want but will still gets lots of road noise from the poor design, tight suspension and frame-less windows.
06-03-10, 07:34 AM
#165
There is spray on that is much better than Quiet Kote but it doesnt come in a spray paint style can.
Coming from a background in car audio back in the late 90's early 00's I have plenty of experience with this stuff. To be honest with you it's good but most people don't use it as recommended. I really only prefer to use it in hard to get to places like inside of the door and inside of the rear quarters. From there you should use some FATMAT behind the door panels (outside of the door frame, most people get this wrong as well), Then do another other surfaces you can find that need it. I would even suggest ripping up the carpet and doing the floor as this usually makes a noticeable difference.
Some situations theres just nothing you can do, take my 96 Sebring coupe for example (Dodge Avenger) You can sound proof it all you want but will still gets lots of road noise from the poor design, tight suspension and frame-less windows.
Coming from a background in car audio back in the late 90's early 00's I have plenty of experience with this stuff. To be honest with you it's good but most people don't use it as recommended. I really only prefer to use it in hard to get to places like inside of the door and inside of the rear quarters. From there you should use some FATMAT behind the door panels (outside of the door frame, most people get this wrong as well), Then do another other surfaces you can find that need it. I would even suggest ripping up the carpet and doing the floor as this usually makes a noticeable difference.
Some situations theres just nothing you can do, take my 96 Sebring coupe for example (Dodge Avenger) You can sound proof it all you want but will still gets lots of road noise from the poor design, tight suspension and frame-less windows.
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06-03-10, 02:43 PM
#169
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stuff is amazing espicaly if you have the sprayer for it check my build thread to see the results for it. not only does the sound improve the rust prevention is great also.
06-04-10, 02:09 AM
#171
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already have been done i did it all at once from the rear suspension towers foward roof inside the rear pillers, a pillers, roof and pretty much anywhere i could get the sprayer to spray it places you cant get by hand....
06-04-10, 07:36 AM
#173
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I'm ordering some today to QC my interior. David, did you do much of the firewall? I have my dash out, and may pull the factory mat off it, and QC the wall, then put the mat back up. I plan to do all the metal I can get to on the interior. (Big interior remodel for me)
Didn't you do some of the under body as well? Seems like I read that somewhere.
Didn't you do some of the under body as well? Seems like I read that somewhere.
04-15-14, 09:46 PM
#174
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result
hi david, i am researching about sound deadener now because i need to put those on in order to reduce the exhaust sound inside my car. i notice that you use the quiet coat. how is the result?
thanks.
thanks.
04-16-14, 07:13 AM
#175
^ Results were great and I highly recommend the product. Look at the charts I posted and you will see I reduced sound by about 12 Dba at 70 mph. That is a huge reduction so the product really works.
Looks like you can still buy it:
QuietCoat 1-Gallon
Takes about 3 gallons to spray the entire car.
Looks like you can still buy it:
QuietCoat 1-Gallon
Takes about 3 gallons to spray the entire car.