Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

Looking for tips on pulling the dash in a fd.
Thanks,
Fritz

Touring FD3S

Wow, first, let me say, have fun. Now, for a how-to :

-I removed the seats both times I took my dash out, but I don't believe it is absolutely necessary

-Remove the center console (between seats), then get rid of the shifter and ebrake with a few bolts each

-Remove the piece of the dash below the steering wheel (there is a vent in the piece)

-Remove the steering column covers

-Remove the air bag (you will find three "plugs" on the back of the steering wheel housing bolts)

-Remove the steering wheel (21mm bolt if I remember correctly). If you don't have a puller, just grab each side of it and pull HARD, just be careful cause when it comes off, if will go into your chest

-Drop the steering column (two nuts where it goes into the firewall and two bolts closer to the top, almost under the gauge cluster)

-It will also be easier if you remove the gauge cluster and the a/c panel. There are a few bolts on the gauge cluster, and when you pull it out, be careful. You will have to pull somewhat hard, but MAKE SURE you pull STRAIGHT out, or you WILL break the "hood" (speaking from experience). After the cluster is away from the dash, just undo the plugs in the back of it. Then you will see two bolts holding in the a/c panel.

-Remove (if you didn't somehwere along the line so far) the side panels. These are the pieces on the side of the dash with vents that go into the doors. The just pull off.

-Behind each of those vents you will find two 10mm bolts holding on brackets for the dash, remove these

-In the center of the defroster vents on the top of the dash, there is a little square piece of it. Lift this piece from the front and inside you will find one 10mm bolt.

-On the center console side of each passenger "foot area" there are little cliped on covers. Remove these. Behind these you will find two 14mm (or 12mm) bolts. Remove these.

-The dash is now ready to pull out. There are a few plugs to undo while doing this though. The best way I found was to pull a little and figure out where I couldn't pull, then found the plug and undid it. I would suggest studying the plugs before you unplug them. It will appear that all the plugs need to be undone at first glance, but in reality there are only a few. This will make it less confusing to put it back together.

-Your dash should now be on your lap. Hope it was enjoyable and hope the reason was worth it.

PS. I may have skipped a few plugs along the way, but you will know when you need to undo one. I wouldn't worry about labeling them or anything like that, most were easy to figure out where they go.

am3210

I was thinking about removing mine and replace some old dash parts but on the other hand it can wait. Damn.
I'll print out the information for a later date when I feeling ambitious.

ShotCaller

never realized how much i like my dash now that i read that blue print to building a house

Touring FD3S

Nothing to fear, just detailed steps

Lunar7

Touring FD3S,

Thanks for the instructions.
You actually made it sound easier than I thought it would be.
That was some very helpfull info.

Cryptic

iTrader: (1)

So I was dealing with some really odd electrical gremlins. Last night, I learned what can happen if you pull the dash out and PO515 the interior and dynomat over the transmission tunnel. You effectively block grounds that are connected to the metal bar underneath the dash.

Symptoms:
-No Vent control
-No Hot/Cold air control
-Intermittent blower fan
-Eventually lost dash lights, RPM guage and cigarette lighter
-No blown fuses
-No A/C Request (or light)



Nice thick coating of POR-15 over everything. Looks pretty, but man this screwed me. The metal dash support bar couldn't make good ground with the body of the car at the pillars and transmission tunnel. I also suspect the threading in the bolt holes were nicely coated with PO5-15, making the bolt itself not much help getting ground.


Adding to the problem, DynoMat covering the trans tunnel to make a nice thick barrier of "tar" at those 4 bolt connection.


The dash wiring harness has two ground points that goto the metal dash support bar. These are not even touched when you remove the dash, but the dash support bar still needs to ground to the car.



To troubleshoot what was going on I had to remove the dash wiring harness from the dash and put back in the car. Without it, you cannot test much. Maybe only the HVAC motors themselves, but you cant test for resistance through the circuit when you change temp controls from hot to cold for example.


This is the madness testing everything with all the harnesses, gauge cluster, and HVAC controls in place, but no dash.



My car is LS swapped so the problem could have been anywhere in my mind.

Got really crazy electrical behaviors until I took those two ground pigtails and grounded them myself to a door bolt. Then EVERYTHING WORKED! I wire wheeled all the connection points to bare metal and I'm running another groundwire to that support bar. That-ought-do-it!


Careful with those grounds!

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

Do I need to remove the radio and CD player?
I'm replacing my carpet and have everything except the dash section out.

tys93r1fd

iTrader: (8)

Subbed

OG BBF

Old thread but just wanted to add you don't need to remove the ac Panel and gauges to remove the dash, just unplug the blue plugs either end of the dash......unplug the green connector from the fuse box and unplug the connectors under the center console, undo all the dash bolts and steering column bolts and it comes right out, very easy job