Rx7-AIII

Hi
I need some help. My FD runs hot. I have a trigger angle of 75 degrees. I see that everyone else seems to get around 65 degrees and therefore could explain the heat with the extra 10 degrees of retard.
The problem is that I have checked the timing with 3 different methods and still get a TA of 75. I have checked against T1 with a lock of -5, against L1 and subtracted 20 degrees and against a 22mm clockwise mark on the crank. All allign. I am sure the thing is retarded but need to find out why this is the case. I don't just want to put in a TA of 65 and blow the motor.
Anyone have any ideas???
Thanks
Martin

tims

as long as the timing has been "zeroed" then the number's not important. as long as you have between 60-90*(I believe from memory) then the ECU has time to do the map lookup and corrections. I have had mine set at 65,70 and 75 depending on how I have installed the CAS. zeroing the timing is the critical part. once this is done then you are running the timing the ecu shows, which you can verify with the timing light. if you have not used a timing light to zero the timing then this maybe your problem. it cannot be done accurately without the timing light.

setzep

60-90?! I have mine set to 49 for the timing to be zeored in. Will my ECU not be able to do the map look up and corrections with the lower trigger angle?

Rx7-AIII

Thats interesting. I took it that for the FD the angle would be fairly consistent at 65-67 degrees.
What sort of EGT's are you getting. I am seeing 800-820 at light throttle 4-5000 rpm 8 inches behind the turbo. Its interesting that I lost 50 degrees C by advancing the timing 2 degrees.

crispeed

Normaly 65 to 67 deg. is what I use. Trigger angle also is dependent on trigger gain value. One way to zero the timing would be to set the leading to 0 deg. with a 20 deg split for the trail, all this done at idle. The notch on the FD pulley is at 20 deg. ATDC. so the mark would line up with the pointer with the above settings.

tims

as you can see with these types of engine management systems there are many ways to skin the proverbial cat. all setups seem to work as long as you understand what is going on and why.

setzep,

I can't remember who gave me the 60-90* numbers(or if this is even the right numbers, my short term memory is not what is was or could/should be), but if 49 is working keep using it on your application.

JScott

I've been told your safe down to 45 deg's. I see no reason not to just keep it up above 60 though. The 3rd gen doesn't have the adjustment range that the 2nd does.

Can anyone verify for me if all 2nd gen pulley's and hubs are the same? I've heard some scary information lately that they're are several different ones and the only true way to know your pulley's timing mark is aligned, is to keep the matched pulley and hub together.

I've got 3 pulley's and hubs here. All 2nd gen turbo, and all have the same mark alignment, other than the S4's are a little smaller diameter. Any of my pulley's would work on any of my hubs.

thanks, Scott

tims

not sure about stock hubs/pulleys. I use the solid underdrive pulley. it is easy to just mark TDC and use that as your reference.

rxrotary2_7

thats where you problem would be... you need to lock timing to 10 and subtract 30 from the number.... start by setting the angle to like 95ish and figure the advance/retard from there and subtract 30 (should get you in the 65-67 range)

rxrotary2_7

oh btw, thats w/ using L1

Rx7-AIII

Its a good idea, but if you put 10 as the default and subtract 30 its the same as zero default and subtracting 20. If I use 10 I need a triger of 105 before subtraction. The haltech will not let you have a number bigger than 100.
Thanks

Rx7-AIII

Thanks to anyone who replied with help. Hitman had the correct answer on the Haltech forum. Ne and G sensors are wired back to front.
The trigger angle on the FD is always around 65-67 degrees.