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Start getting misfires once the car fully warms up - why?
I have an FC with an E6X. I finally got it to where it runs smoothly at first, but once the car warms up it starts misfiring quite badly, especially once it is fully heat-soaked. What could cause this, and how can I fix it? I've re-routed the wires, and they are nowhere near anything that should cause interference. I have two CAS's , and both have this problem. One seems to be a little worse, but it could just be that it was much hotter outside. I have read of other people have this problem, and also read that magnet clearancing might be a problem. How do you clearance the magnets, and what should the clearances be?
I just bought a RA10 since I'm so fed up with it, but I'm worried that this problem might transfer over. Any suggestions?
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1987 RX-7 - s4 J-spec turbo swap, Bridgeported, currently down for rebuild
RB 2.5" DP/presilncer to Apex N1; BNR Stage 4 Hybrid turbo; Hawk HPS pads; KYB AGX shocks with Ground Control coil-overs; Ground Control camber plates; ACT Prolite Flywheel, Exedy Stage 1 clutch; Haltech E6X
13.7 @104
I have an FC with an E6X. I finally got it to where it runs smoothly at first, but once the car warms up it starts misfiring quite badly, especially once it is fully heat-soaked. What could cause this, and how can I fix it? I've re-routed the wires, and they are nowhere near anything that should cause interference. I have two CAS's , and both have this problem. One seems to be a little worse, but it could just be that it was much hotter outside. I have read of other people have this problem, and also read that magnet clearancing might be a problem. How do you clearance the magnets, and what should the clearances be?
I just bought a RA10 since I'm so fed up with it, but I'm worried that this problem might transfer over. Any suggestions?
Quote:
Originally Posted by bumpstart
0.4 mm, +/- 0.2 mm for the CAS pickups ( 0.2 - 0.6mm )
0.7 mm, +/-0.2mm for the dizzy pickups ( 0.5 - 0.9 mm )
you adjust the gap by bending the arm the magnets sit on
you can also try gathering all the CAS wiring ends into a drill chuck and gently twisting them up into a bundle
or replacing that wiring back to the ECU with some shielded co-ax ( shield tied to earth at the ecu end )
as just two methods of combating RFI
myself think though that if the problems get worse as the car warms its air gap,,or earth potential related
PS ,, have you tried fiddling the gain and filter settings yet?,, they may be just off
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when the going is hard, don't retard, remember your lubrication
22 years of DIY rotary experience
daily driver : closed loop LPG/propane turbo 13b FC: 17 L/100km highway - 24 L/100km city - 20L /100km combined cycle
built not bought
I checked one of my CAS's and the tolerances were actually 0.15mm, so I reset them to 0.4mm. This basically made no difference at all. I'm gonna check my grounds, and if that doesn't work I'm gonna just install the RA10 and hope for the best.
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1987 RX-7 - s4 J-spec turbo swap, Bridgeported, currently down for rebuild
RB 2.5" DP/presilncer to Apex N1; BNR Stage 4 Hybrid turbo; Hawk HPS pads; KYB AGX shocks with Ground Control coil-overs; Ground Control camber plates; ACT Prolite Flywheel, Exedy Stage 1 clutch; Haltech E6X
13.7 @104
Ive got the same problems on an E8 i have here on a friends car
Op Do your needles Jump when it misses?
I checked my cas Rerouted my harness and still can't get it
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91 6 port turbo gxl (so much fun) gone
86 GXL winter beater best car ever
89 GXL Full poly kit, all new suspension hardware, sparco sprint, JIC coilovers, Tein strut bar New oem mazda reman from 10 years ago !!! 17x9 +20 wedsports
TMP Cayuga road course 1:29ish On street tires?
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