Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

Hello all, lets see if there is anybody here that can contribute with a little help here. Im working on this FD with REW halfbridge ported motor, with E6X, and no matter what i try to zero the timing the notch on the pully will not line up with the pin on the front cover, its way off, and to make it line up i have to put in wierd values, not the expected 65 degree trigger angle with offset 5 that is recommended. Anybody seen this before?

If i leave the timing lock to -5 (-20 on trailing) the notch is about 80 degrees towards the passenger side.

Other than that the engine actually revs pretty smoothly with the lock on, but i cant boost beyond 5psi, of course, not that i want to be doing this with the timing the way it is.

Also, please correct me if im wrong, on the FD REW engines, the timing notch is on the trigger disk right? not on the actually pully it self? cause this engine has an Extreme Motorsports kit, and there are no notches on the belt pully on the crank. I looked at a stock FD and there werent any marks on there either, just on the teeth ring/wheel.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

davedge

Compare the pulley you are using to a STOCK pully(using the keyway as a guide) and make sure the timing marks are even lined up properly.

That will be a good starting point.

Then properly mark the correct timing marks. And see if that gives you a change in what the timing light is reading vs. your timing marks.

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

The are no timing marks on a stock pully where the belts go, just the trigger and home teeth ring behind that with the TDC/Home tooth and the notch on it, i looked at a stock car, although it was late at night and not very much light.

What i was able to do was play with tooth offset and trigger angle and i was able to zero it at 90 degrees offset 6. It still puzzles me on what could be wrong, i know the crank sensors are wired correctly since i redid it my self a few hours ago.

davedge

That notch IS the timing mark, and it is at -20*. So when you set a lock timing of: -5... then you time your BASE IGN off of TRAILING 1.

Most after market pulleys, do not have the correct timing mark, and so you have to reference against a stock pulley, as MAZDA does not have any trouble getting it right. Just line up the keyway, and remark the aftermarket pulley.

It doesn't matter where the timing mark is... as long as you sychronize the ECU with the engine position, the numbers and settings could be all over the place. Being that there have been a lot of FD's with Haltechs installed, we do have general settings for them... so it would be odd that yours is not timed the same. Being the main variable in the equation is the aftermarket pulley, this is where I would begin my examination.

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

Again, the notch on the so called pulley is on the part of it that is behind where the belts run on. The notch is on the part that run in front of the crank sensor behing the belt pully. I know the notch is at 20 degrees.

This is what's confusing, the fact that this engine didnt match up the way its supposed to with tooth offset 5 and trigger angle 65.

RETed

Does it run right with the zero'd with the timing gun?
Those number sound like E6K set-up?
The E6X runs a different reluctor, so it's not going to be the same.


-Ted

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

Well, here is the thing, this is an E6X, but its serial number in the 0700's, so its a red box with old lable, haltech says the hardware is exactly the same, ill pop it open today to see if its different, but at the risk of sounding like an Jr. tuner, i had a more recent E6X (serial in the 2600's) with the internal map sensor, and the settings are identical, and it works the same way. Im stompted, that was my only solution, to change tooth offset and trigger angle 'til i was able to get it right.

So far, aside from a rich mixture that i need to fine tune, it boosted pretty good to 10psi, but we havent pushed it farther than that yet. Thats today.

Will post results here.

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

The timming mark is on the trigger ring.

I was way off on mine b/c the FOOOOOK'n colors of the wires are stupid close on wiring up the igniter.

It's like brown, brown/white, brown something... blah blah... and if it's dark it's easy to mix them up.

So i had them switched so my rear/front were switched.

I swear i checked them 100 times and not until my friend was checking as i was reading it off did i find it.

Car would run fine with the trails switched (what u zero'n timing on).

Fast check is put light on rear trailing. If it lines up at 65/5 or close you prolly wired them up backwards.

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

Ive reached the conclusion that its more than likely since i didnt do the wireing, that the trailings got mixed up.

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

Easy fix once u conclude it's the wiring.

I just switched pins on the ECU.

crispeed

Claudio
I've never used an E-6X on a rotary application but on everything else I've done the settings are completly different to what is the norm for the E-6K for the same application. That is due to the type of reluctor as Ted mentioned above.
Even the E-8/11 reluctor settings are different to the E6k's.
Also it's very common to see the trailings wired wrong on the FD's.
Just verify the timing with a light.

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

I guess this is what happened, since it wasnt me that wired it, ill try to talk to the owner, since he did it, i dont think it will be a problem swapping them around.

Im back in DR now, so it will have to be over the net, hope to be in California for SevenStock in October, maybe SEMA too

Thanks for the Input guys. The car does run and drive pretty decent, although no power numbers where recorded since there were several things that came up that didnt let me do a decent dyno pass.

But i hope to be back there soon. Much to do, much to do.