djSL

iTrader: (5)

Looking for recommended settings for closed loop o2 on a stock port FC. I searched the 4 pages within this forum and found a couple relevant posts, but nothing concrete.

Relevant mods are as follows:
-48mm itb set
-haltech 02 sensor
-Haltech e6x
-ID1000 injectors in primaries only
-adjustable FPR
-AEM UEGO wideband

I've finally got my fuel map dialed in right where I want it. However, light load tends to fluctuate the AFR and I occasionally get a random spike in fuel that brings the AFR to 10.00. Tap the gas or increase RPM and it disappears. I've tried isolating this cell but it's near my idle load range and modifying it too much affects idle quality. So I'm hoping enabling closed loop in low ranges will help. It seems to only happen between 2200 rpm and 3k rpm.

Any help greatly appreciated!

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

here are some points to think about. as i recall the E6X only runs closed loop at 14.7? the newer ones have an AFR target map, so you can actually have different mixtures at different loads.

anyways, IMO its perfectly acceptable to start in a small area, and then make it bigger as you get it happy. i know of some people that were running closed loop all the time, in drag cars running 9's, so its possible to do some crazy stuff.

step 1, is to get your map pretty close to 14.7:1. the Haltech closed loop is fast, so if it turns on, and makes big AFR changes it can drive weird/badly. Mazda usually tunes a little rich and then uses the o2 to pull it lean, dunno if that is better or not.

step 2 is to think about the boundaries of the closed loop. the FC ecu only runs closed loop in a small area, its ~1250-3500rpm between ~10 and 20% throttle. the lower rpm limit on the haltech can be tricky, as the zero throttle fuel cut and closed loop can fight each other. i'd set it a little high, and then bring it down. the higher rpm/throttle part is easier.

step 3. i know you get to set the o2 voltage it does closed loop in, so you do actually have mixture control. you also have control over how much authority the sensor has to change mixture, and you can set a big number, but big swings in AFR can do weird things when you're driving, ideally you'd want it pretty small, like 10%, but in real life it ends up being more like 25%. you can also set how fast it works, and too fast can drive weird too, i like to set it more like the stock ECU, which is more like 80bpm, up to you though.

djSL

iTrader: (5)

Thank you for the informative reply! From what I've read, you're correct that the e6x will only operate closed loop at 14.7. Are there rotary specific setting that could make a difference? The car was tuned without closed loop and my map is getting close, but there are a few questionable variables within the closed loop menu.

Current settings
Minimum rpm: 1100 rpm
Maximum throttle %: 30%

Haltech 4 wire 02 sensor
Sensor voltage: 0-1V

Engine cycles per correction: 8
02 sensor stoich voltage (mV): 638
Max fuel increase : 10%
Max fuel decrease: -10%
Engine cycles at idle: 15
02 sensor voltage @idle (mV): 638
Start up delay : 120

No matter what I do, I still get a lean spike and hesitation when slight pressing the throttle from below 1500 rpm. I've tried to adjust the throttle pump settings to no avail. The car is super responsive everywhere else. I was hoping close loop will fix that lol

djSL

iTrader: (5)

I think part of this might be my TPS sensor. It doesn't read light throttle inputs on the data page unless you stab the pedal with a decent amount of pressure. This could be causing the delay in fueling.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i'd recalibrate the sensor, and then look at the "dead band" the dead band is the amount of voltage change the ecu can see without doing anything, ie if the reading fluctuates by .01v you'd want the ecu to ignore that, vs running the throttle pumps like crazy.

however if the dead band is too big then the ecu won't see small changes. not sure what the default value is, but usually you don't need to mess with it

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

looks ok to me, i'd maybe change the start up delay, our race car had a shorter delay than it took the o2 to warm up, so it would look at the o2 before there was a reading, which made it run really bad.

you might play with the cycles per correction, its how quickly the o2 cycles (i think), and too fast is too fast

and when you open the throttle at low rpm, you actually should see a lean spike, what you don't want is a flat spot/hesitation. it can be tricky to tune this stuff out too, as the load goes through a bunch of cells that can be hard to get to otherwise

djSL

iTrader: (5)

The makes sense. My other reasoning for the tps being bad is the values fluctuate when off throttle. This includes in the recalibration menu. Sometimes it will fluctuate between 0 and 4%!

For the most part, I've finally got the throttle pumps dialed in under low throttle and the hesitation has gone away. After deselecting closed loop, the car runs better lol. That being said, I'll probably play with the start up delay and engine cycles.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

you can try unplugging the TPS and see what that does. the zero throttle stuff won't work, if you're using it, and neither will the throttle pumps, so it will probably hesitate if you move your foot too fast

djSL

iTrader: (5)

It's definitely the tps being wacky. The car is running good right now, but I may continue to mess around with closed loop