Haltech Q's about cold start tune
#1
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Q's about cold start tune
I need some advice:
What map sensor should reads while engine is cranking?
I have E11V2
13B-RE street ported, 850/1680 combo
3bar map sensor reads -1 - 2 kpa while engine cranking.
I plug it onto nipple on UIM towards firewall.
4-5 ms pulse, engine floods of fuel, do not start
1 - 2 kpa reads when I turn on ignition
12 C ambient
stage bar +10 kpa
No correction maps
Thank you
What map sensor should reads while engine is cranking?
I have E11V2
13B-RE street ported, 850/1680 combo
3bar map sensor reads -1 - 2 kpa while engine cranking.
I plug it onto nipple on UIM towards firewall.
4-5 ms pulse, engine floods of fuel, do not start
1 - 2 kpa reads when I turn on ignition
12 C ambient
stage bar +10 kpa
No correction maps
Thank you
#2
www.lms-efi.com
iTrader: (27)
-1 to -2 is about right. The engine is making very little vacuum when cranking so the readings will be slightly on the negative side of 0 kPa. Readings of slightly over 0 kPa are correct for key on, no crank situations.
4-5 mS is not anything out of the ordinary.
Does the engine have good compression?
To tune cranking fuel you'll need to get into the low speed maps near 0 kPa. Just like any of the other maps you can follow the red pointer around to see what load bars are being referenced for cranking. With the E11 you can also build an rpm range right around your cranking speed so that you aren't worrying about interpolation across two different ranges.
You might also look at the primer map to make sure it doesn't have some grossly huge value in it.
4-5 mS is not anything out of the ordinary.
Does the engine have good compression?
To tune cranking fuel you'll need to get into the low speed maps near 0 kPa. Just like any of the other maps you can follow the red pointer around to see what load bars are being referenced for cranking. With the E11 you can also build an rpm range right around your cranking speed so that you aren't worrying about interpolation across two different ranges.
You might also look at the primer map to make sure it doesn't have some grossly huge value in it.
#3
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Thank you, C. Ludwig!
The engine is fresh rebuild. It started easily at summer when was +30C.
And it started couple of days ago when I installed CDI.
I think I killed my spark plugs from overflooding.
I'll recheck zero timing and change spark plugs tomorrow.
The engine is fresh rebuild. It started easily at summer when was +30C.
And it started couple of days ago when I installed CDI.
I think I killed my spark plugs from overflooding.
I'll recheck zero timing and change spark plugs tomorrow.
#4
Lives on the Forum
MAP sensor signal should not matter, as the Haltech uses the Primer (Cranking) map on cold start.
Unless you mess around with the default settings for cranking RPM's under 200RPM or so?
-Ted
Unless you mess around with the default settings for cranking RPM's under 200RPM or so?
-Ted
#5
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The fuel tank was empty
Car starts now in 1-2 sec of cranking. Idle is smooth like a baby - 900rpm.
Vacuum -40 -- -50 kpa, Injection 2.5 ms, lambda 12.5-13
BAC works
Termofan do not work
Engine smokes (new rebuild)
OMP is responsive but plastic tubes are empty
I add a quart of 2T oil in tank
Haltech coolant temp sensor reads wrong values: + 7-8 C from real temperature. Close calibration is Hyundai Excel. I have a formula to calibrate my stock cosmo sensor.
Car starts now in 1-2 sec of cranking. Idle is smooth like a baby - 900rpm.
Vacuum -40 -- -50 kpa, Injection 2.5 ms, lambda 12.5-13
BAC works
Termofan do not work
Engine smokes (new rebuild)
OMP is responsive but plastic tubes are empty
I add a quart of 2T oil in tank
Haltech coolant temp sensor reads wrong values: + 7-8 C from real temperature. Close calibration is Hyundai Excel. I have a formula to calibrate my stock cosmo sensor.
Last edited by funklove; 09-22-07 at 09:25 AM. Reason: forgot..
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#8
Who needs that. Just two little bleeps of the loud pedal before it cranks and the little plunger thing in the flux capacitor sqirts fuel down the 4bbl's is enough to get her going !!!
#10
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Another
Car wont idles when I set BAC at 225-275 Hz. It idles when I set it at 33 or near.
Car idles at 800, at 500, at even 450.
But without BAC it dies.
Vacuum is -40 - 50 kpa. Is it too hight?
Car idles at 800, at 500, at even 450.
But without BAC it dies.
Vacuum is -40 - 50 kpa. Is it too hight?
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