FCrocious

iTrader: (1)

I have a 88 TII with a e6x. I just finished installing it. The car will fire but it was acting weird and when i went to check the timing i noticed the trailing coils have no spark.


HELP I'm completely stumped.
My car doesn't fire the trailing coils. It will however fire the leading, the car will start and run but idles like poo. Runs really rich.
I attached a horrible pic but its all I could think of.

The 2 prong plug on the trailing coil has 12v when the key is on.
The coils are had under 1 ohm of resistance

Can someone please look over this and see if you see something wrong.
Also do i have that ring terminal ground thing at the right spot, does it go there?






I'm starting to think the coil/igniter has failed?
I'm not sure what else to check. The plugs were fouled but I'm testing spark with a spark tester attached to a ground.

RETed

Do you have the TOGGLE option set in software?


-Ted

FCrocious

iTrader: (1)

I'm using a base map from BDC, he double checked it and said its setup right.

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

I dont know where you got that diagram from, but it doesnt look to me like its right. The Yellow/Blue wire is the tacho wire that goes into the dash, the Blue/Yellow is the one that is connected to the Ign2 signal (DigitalOut1/White-Black wire), Aux.Out (green/black) goes into the brown/yellow wire, and the 2 tan wires are power.

Note! the colors after the connector (bewteen the coil pack and the connector) change colors, so, if you go by those, its this way:

Haltech White/Black wire to Pink coil pack wire
Haltech Green/Black wire to Yellow coil pack wire
Yellow/Blue wire from coil pack to Tacho in dash

Aux.Out wire function in software needs to be setup as Toggle output in the Input/Output setup menu window. Also, sometimes, SOMETIMES!, on the E6X the trailing leads tend to be reversed, so, if you dont get 20 degrees on T1 with the timing light (are 180 degrees out) swap trailing plug wires.

And THAT is how you do it. Also, if you dont know enough about something dont try to do the installation. You'll end up screwing something up.

FCrocious

iTrader: (1)

DId that. Double Checked and triple checked it. Its exactly wired up how you said.....
Now, would it matter if we had to solder a few wires together to make one long wire? We had to extend some wires. Also the CAS is perfectly aligned with the factory mazda install. It looks exactly like this. The only other thing I can think of to check is the CAS wiring. But would that let it run on leading spark only and not trailing? Or is the CAS wiring either all spark or no spark?
I'm getting very ******* frustrated with all of this. Its been a nightmare.
And how about the problem being with the haltech itself? I do notice once the ecu is loading and you try to maximize the screen before its done loading 100% that it gives you an error window and opens like 1000 of them.
Someone please help!


I also checked the coils resistance, as well as the CAS resistance and its all to spec. The 2 prong connector to the trailing coils is getting power as well.

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

If the CAS was wired wrong it wouldnt start or read RPMs, or start and run like crap.

Its gotta be miss wiring of the trailing, or no power to it, or worst case scenario you fried the igniter feeding 12V on the toggle select instead of 5V.

Try another coil pack and check the signals coming out of the haltech to the coil pack.