Atticus_

ive done a boost leak test and came up with nothing. the only place i cant tell for sure is at the omp injectors and the fuel injectors but as far as i can feel under the manifold there is no leak.

after the car warms up it idles at 3k all day long.
What would make my car idle at 3k besides a vacuum leak?

running a haltech e6k

thanks.

Atticus_

I should also say that i have drove up the road and back and the car seems to run fine and still has good power. just wants to idle at 3k

oh i also check the throttle to see if it is closed fully, it is.
I have replaced all blockoffs with new ones and boost leak checked it 3 times.

BDC

For the idle to jump all the way up to 3krpm, it means you've now got a problem with the engine being able to suck in alot of extra air from some place. It could be a hose that's not been re-connected, a stuck throttle cam or cable enabling the throttle body to not close completely, or something else that's been opened up to allow more vacuum.

Got any hissing noises now? Hunt around for them if you do.

B

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

What B said. When you changed injectors it's possible one of the grommets wasn't installed correctly or if you used new ones I've seen the wrong size supplied with aftermarket injectors. If you'd like I can take a look at it. We're just down the road in Louisville. Give me a call if you need help.

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

Just stating the obvious here, major vacuum leak. Look around for a big hole where air is being sucked in.

RETed

Intake leak.
Or your idle control is stuck open?

Shoot the intake tract down with starting fluid or carb cleaner.
When you hit the spot, the idle will change.


-Ted

Atticus_

thanks a lot guys, see that is what i have been telling myself all along.

if the leak is on the charge pipe before the throttle body then will that cause the idle to still be high?

alright ill try the starting fluid because i was told that by someone else today...

if i cant figure it out then i might have to give you a call ludwig, like i said the car is drivable, i just have to dump it and cherp the tires everytime i want to start moving... a 4puck isnt the best for 3 grand launches.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

No.

Atticus_

didnt thinks so.. anyway tonight i will be replacing the o-rings for the injectors and then checking for leaks again. ill post up later if i have any success. thanks for all the help everyone!

Atticus_

ok, so after once again taking everything apart and putting it back together, waiting for sealer to dry over night, and then starting it, this was the result:

car was hard to start, once i got it started it now idles around ~2500rpm

i walked around and sprayed starting fluid over everything and had no change in idle..

i then unplugged my boost gauge vacuum line and plugged it with my finger, the idle then began dropping till the car almost died and then jummped back up to around 2 or 3 k and dropped again. this kept on repeating even after i put the vacuum line back on.

i started to walk around the car and noticed a wet spot under it. i hit the floor and saw fuel pouring out of my fuel filter.

i shut the car off and now have the fuel filter off. it was a Autozone special so i dont know how good it really was, but it looks like it was leaking out of the place it is put together at. the fuel lines are still in good shape.

so i am about to go get a new fuel filter, but i would also like to know if this could be my problem? someone told me that a lean condition could cause i high idle, but im not so sure of that... i do know however that the haltech has some kind of anti stall system on it am i correct? i know before in the winter if my car had a bad idle when warming up it would almost stall and then catch itself and the idle would jump up a little bit, and keep doing that untill it could run on its own.

any feedback will help!

in the mean time im running to town to get a new fuel filter... ill check back in a hour or so. see ya!

Atticus_

I am F-ing LOST!!!!! i dont know what the hell is going on!!!! i can't find anything wrong, and it wont change!

I got a new fuel filter, still the same ****.

when i unplug the map sensor it drops down to a rich as hell but somewhat normal idle.

can anyone help me on this???

i might have to come see you ludwig, because this has just gone on for way too long.

Atticus_

boost leak test again and still saw nothing... i ran 40psi through the system and couldn't hear or feel a bit of air... could it be possable that the map sensor could be messing up, or maybe something about my injectors... but it was doing this before while the leaking injector was in still, but after i took off the intake and put it back on, then it started...

anyway i got my injectors from this site: http://www.xs-engineering.com/xsstor...idproduct=6444

hks 680cc top feeds, they were replacing gsl-se 680cc injectors.

i got the injector o-ring for the centerhousing, which is off a 88 turbo.

anyway i really need some support on this, i need this car running!

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Guess this might be a stupid question but since this is posted in the Haltech section I'm guessing you're running a Haltech? If it is a Haltech, what is the ECU seeing for vacuum value at idle?

Usually a lean idle will cause the idle to bounce. If it's starting and revving to 3k and holding there it's some kind of air leak or the throttle blades are stuck open.

Atticus_

well i can rev it and warm it up and it will stay at 3k but when it first starts or if it dies and i start it back up it jumps and then almost stalls, repeat.

yes i am running a e6k

this is james duncan's old car, im sure you remember it chris.

the vac on my boost gauge shows around 15in/hg and when the idle drops to almost stall the vacuume of course goes up.

i did what a friend of mine told me and covered part of the inlet duct to the turbo. it lowered the idle a little, so that was suppose to tell me it is a vacuum leak i guess?

i dont know what the ecu says my vacuum is at because i dont have a laptop at the moment to read it.

RETed

Something propping the throttle plates open?

Cold start cam?
Crap in the TB bore?
TB binding?
Throttle cable too tight?


-Ted

Atticus_

just took the throttle body off last night, when through the adjustments and everything re-sealed it and let it set overnight, then started it this morning with no new results...

Atticus_

could all the gas that spilled out between the block and the lower intake have maybe caused the gasket on the lower intake to leak?

im just throwing things out at this point!

Atticus_

bump. going to work... i guess i am about to call it quits and take it to the shop...
later

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Are you using a haltech TPS? I've seen people's fabbed bracekts for them be positioned slightly off and actually hold the throttle open a bit.

Are you running an EGR system still?

Atticus_

no egr, ALL emissions removed.

the tps was installed by ludwig to my knowledge, and has never given me a problem before. i can assure you, the throttle is closed fully.

RETed

If throttle plates are fully closed, then it's back to an intake leak after the TB somewhere...


-Ted

Atticus_

lol i know, but i have been trying to find it for about 2 weeks now! im sure its something simple, so im going to go buy replacement vacuum lines for the waste gate, bov, boost gauge and map sensor. those are te ONLY vacuum lines besides the brake booster, and i have already blocked it off and ran the car without it hooked up and there was no change so i know that it is still good.

if this dosent work... i guess it is off to the shop

fatboy7

Do you have a BAC installed on the intake manifold? They're supposed to be normally closed, but I've seen them get stuck open before, and the results are similar to what you describe.

Atticus_

no

i have decided to try over and go through the upper intake again.

i got all new gaskets and vacuum lines
i also got the omp injector blockoffs from pineapple racing to replace the injectors, so hopefully i will get it all sorted out before long.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

The oil injectors were already blocked off with bolts and copper washers. Unless you removed them for some reason you're probably not going to find much there.