spot_skater

J-Spec S513BT
Stock coils

First off, sorry for all of the n00b questions guys. This is my first Haltech install, and so far I'd say things are going pretty smoothly.

This question is in regards to the ignition system. I have read Hitman's site, more than a dozen times, but am still a bit confused.

His site mostly deals with the E6, and E6k ECU's. I am running an E8, so naturally a few wire colors are off.

On his site, he mentions that the trailing coil is wired a bit abnormally as compared the leading, where only one wire from the Haltech harness is used. (LG -- Ignition Out)

The trailing uses a W/B wire (AUX OUT-1) along with a B/G wire (Aux Output).

This is where I am confused... Basically, which wires from the Haltech ignition harness will be used and into which wire, of which coil? I saw pics of someone else's install, where connectors were being spliced, etc. So that just added to my confusion. I know how to read wiring diagrams and that type of stuff, I'd just rather not **** something like this up.

From my E8 Harness there are:
Ignition 1 (LG ) Light green
Ignition 2 (W/B) White/Black
Ignition 3 (L) Blue
Ignition 4 (L/Y) Blue/Yellow

Thanks in advance, and I am going to re-read that section of the manual now, so I can hopefully figure this out before any of the experts get a chance to respond.

Thanks,
James

spot_skater

Ok. I just read the manual again, and IGN 1 goes to the Leading Coil, and IGN 2 goes to the trailing coil, and IGN 3 is toggle.

So what wires to be used are figured out, and where they go is figured out. But EXACTLY where they go is still a question to me. I'm looking in the FSM for information regarding the coils now, but all I can find is information about checking them with an Igniter checker.

I'm looking through the Haynes manual wiring diagrams and it seems as if the coils get their power from a black and yellow wire, that comes off of the main relay. The Haynes is showing (what looks like...) the trailing coil getting power from a Black/Yellow wire, which then continues on, after a splice, to go into the leading coil, which will then get grounded by the ECU (stock ECU+wiring).

Is this the wire I am looking for?


Thanks,
James

PS: After a bit of searching, I found this:
E8 Using Stock Ignition System:

Wiring:
Ignition Output 1 (light green) to Leading Coils (Pink)
Ignition Output 2 (white/black) to Trailing Coils (Pink)
Ignition Output 3 (green/black) to Ignition Toggle (white)

Software Setup:
Spark Type – Distributor
Charge Time – 4.5ms
Spark Edge – Falling

I would just like some clarification. Thanks.

spot_skater

Just found this:
http://www.k2rd.com/haltech/drawings/IG01.pdf

Correct me if I'm wrong, but... Ign1 would go to the pink wire going into the leading coil (conn. BA-09).

Ign2 would go to the pink wire of connector BA-07

And Ign 3 (toggle) would go to the white wire of connector BA-07

??

James

idsigloo

Go by the e11 wiring. Ign 1 is Leading Ign 2 is Timing and Ign 3 Toggle.

On the E8:
Ignition 1 (Light Green) goes to the pink wire on the Leading
Ignition 2 (White/Black) goes to the pink wire on the Trailing
Ignition 3 (Blue) goes to the white wire on the Trailing

spot_skater

Thanks a lot. That's one of the last bits to this puzzle, and I will hopefully be starting the car today.

James

drama

iTrader: (37)

This is helping me also, I`am doing my first haltech E8 to a FC body using a Stock FD engine set-up less than the pulleys and 3" exhaust, and open air intake.

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

copy cat

Good luck to the both of you, I should be starting mine during or shortly after the holiday

drama

iTrader: (37)

Your doing the same swap are you. Good Luck,This Hoilday is the only real time i`ll get to spend working on it, My workplace increased our hours to 6 days a week 12 hour days, Some days i wonder if i`ll make it home. I`am wanting too drive it too the D.G.R.R in April I alredy have reservations at the Hotel.

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

Right on. I just need to fill the sucker up with oil and coolant and I should be good to go (knock on wood).
I also need to find a MAP sensor connector to connect my haltech to the plugin on the MAP sensor. I really do not want to order and wait weeks

drama

iTrader: (37)

Call my friends in Lexington,ky at Injected Performance and ask for marty or greg tell them that big lou said they could help u out real fast. They have a **** load of 3 bar sensors in stock.
Could you give a man some info on what wires you used for the exact wire color code of the mazda crank sensors and injectors to the haltech, I have all the stock connectors with about 4" of wire off them ready to solder them to the haltech, You could possiably save me a lot of work. Louis
I`ve already modded up the G/M style tps,, and coolant sensor and ait sensor. Also are you going to try to make the factory OMP work with the pwm control or just use premix.

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

i have it for premix right now, but I will set up the OMP after.
Im using the stock FD crank sensor...Ill go in my shop in the next few days and get the wire colors for you, but JacobCartmill terminated the harness for his FD, then I bought it off him.

What are you using for a 12v switched source?

EDIT, for the crank sensors, I did it like this (I think the wires were the same as the E6k, if not, then **** haha)
I also believe thats what the Haltech manual says to do for a 2 rotor.

drama

iTrader: (37)

Did you ever get your car running.??

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

Its been snowing and have had bad roads the past few days.
Im driving my Mustang so I cant get to town on my days off to get my fluids and check.
But the wiring diagram shows home is green, trigger is yellow, ground is light blue, and red is 12v switched.
It looks like the trigger and home are correct.

Keep in mind this is my first attempt at a Haltech install. If someone else could chime in, that would be great.

hiboost

iTrader: (1)

Is this MSD 8509 ignition stabilizer needed? I found online 2 for $150. Is this a good price?

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

No, they arent. I was just using the picture as a refrence as to where the trigger and home were.

drama

iTrader: (37)

Thats cool.

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

Haltech sells the RA10 for about 120 retail, its a dual channel reluctor adapter. At any rate, you should be fine with the internal reluctor it works 98% of the time, the other 2% is due to flaky, old, damaged, or crappy stock sensors.

hiboost

iTrader: (1)

How do you wire it up without the stabilizator? This above is the only diagram I found that make sense with wires coming out of haltech wiring... and includes MSD 8509.
But on this diagram bellow I cant figure it out where to put red and blue wire... it seems both connectors need the ground and not 12v switched
http://www.k2rd.com/haltech/drawings/T03.pdf
It's has only for E6K and E11 diagram... I have E8... But i would assume they should be the same.
What do I do with 12v switched? Do I splice ground for both connectors home and trigger?

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

The Haltech RA10 and MSD 8509 boxes do the same thing. The stock VR sensors that Mazda use output an analog, sine wave signal. The Haltech ECU, as well as most ECUs on the market, need to see a digital, square wave signal to operate. So what the RA10 and MSD 8509 do is condition the output of the VR sensor into a digital signal for the ECU.

The Haltech ECUs have a built in reluctor adapter that does the same thing as the RA10 and MSD 8509. So you don't need either one of them to make everything work and the vast majority of installs do just fine without an external adapter. The internal adapters have been updated as the models have progressed and that's why some ECUs seem to work better than others with the internal adapter. The E6K, E6X and E8/11 all have different internal adapters.

If you have an E8 I would recommend you wire it up without the external adapter. To wire it, referencing the K2RD diagram you posted:

G+ - Haltech Green, Pin 2 of 26 pin connector
Ne+ - Haltech Yellow, Pin 1 of 26 pin connector
G- and Ne- - Haltech Blue, Pin14 of 26 pin connector
Haltech Red is not connected, insulate end to prevent short to ground

hiboost

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man. That was a lot of help. By the way I found this deal - (MSD 8509) for both $118. But if I dont need it I will cancel the order.. You just saved me few bucks man.

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

K so I have it setup like this:

On the E8:
Ignition 1 (Light Green) goes to the pink wire on the Leading
Ignition 2 (White/Black) goes to the pink wire on the Trailing
Ignition 3 (Blue) goes to the white wire on the Trailing

Do I just leave the tan wires alone, or do I wire them up to the Haltech (red/yellow i think)

BDC

The TAN leads heading to the factory 2nd gen ignition are fused, switched +12VDC power. They'll pull bout 5A each IIRC. You can wire them back up to stock or do your own relay w/ a 20-25A buss fuse.

B

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

ok, so I should be good then wired stock!