R.O.D

iTrader: (3)

Hey fellas,
I have a 86 w/ tii
I currently have the oldass rtek and looking to upgrade.
Had my eyes on haltech for a bit, but the guys on mighty car mods sold me lol.
But I have some idiot questions that I googled and Rex forum searched with no resolution.
1. So for the new harness could one just splice the hal-harness to the existing one or is that just bad practice/taboo?
(I'm not much wiring expert lol)
(I might could have a avionics guy in my hanger repin the stock harness to the haltech clip)
2. Do I need new harness clips to make new ends?
3. Does the system come base tuned?
4. Is there more needed other than the 1000 and harnes?

Again very very uneducated to haltech I'll keep reading around, but any info or more beyond my questions would be super appreciated!
-Brendan

R.O.D

iTrader: (3)

Oh!
And having a hard time figuring out the difference between models..
Ps500 is like a piggy back
Ps1000 is for two rotor
Ps2000 would be for 3 rotor plus
But there's also RotaryEng autospec?

Is this correct?

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

It's very likely your original emissions harness is marginal at best. I've never really seen an FC, no matter how well preserved, that had OE wiring in good shape. This is a great opportunity to start fresh with new and improved materials. The downside is, if you don't know what you're doing, take shortcuts, and rush the job, you'll likely be in much worse shape that you are now.

Option 1 would be one of Haltech's patch looms. This simply allows you to connect a Sport 1000 ECU directly to your emissions harness in place of the stock ECU. It gets you up and running quickly and easily. If your OE emissions loom is truly in good shape, this is a good option.

Option 2 is to do a full rewire using Haltech flying lead loom. You need to know what you're doing, take your time, and use proper techniques. If you do that, you can end up with a nice, clean, reliable system that provides years of service. This allows you to also delete the items and wiring you don't need and add anything you do need and make it all nice and clean.

Option 3 is to purchase a harness from a supplier that is build exactly for your purpose. This would be the most expensive option, but would have the upside of providing a very clean, well built harness that is guaranteed to perform and has been built by a pro. Option 3B would be Haltech's FC replacement engine harness. They're generally well built but they are built for a specic configuration of injectors and coils and, if you don't want to run what the harness is built for, you'll need to make changes to a brand new harness you paid good money for. Not a great value, IMO. Option 3C would be to drop the car off and have the shop do this work and maybe tune it while they have it.

As far as what ECU is right for you, that depends on what you're wanting to do. In the Haltech line you have several options:
- Sprint RE
- Sport 1000
- Sport 2000
- Elite 550 (coming soon)
- Elite 750
- Elite 1500
- Elite 2500

Any of those ECU will work to run a 2-rotor engine. What you want/need comes down to what options you feel you need and what your budget is. Personally, I would highly recommend going with one of the newer Elite ECUs. They'll provide the ease of VE tuning and automated injector staging. This makes fuel tuning much easier on those who are less experienced.

None of the ECUs will come from Haltech with a base calibration. This is where selecting an experienced and helpful dealer makes a huge difference. If you simply go out and price shop, the money you saved buying from a bargain seller may have been well spent with a reputable dealer that's providing support after the sale.

Whether or not more is needed than the basic system depends on what your needs and wants are. Again, an experienced dealer would be able to walk you through the process and provide all that you need and probably point out ideas and features you hadn't even thought of.

R.O.D

iTrader: (3)

Super good information, thanks!
Answered all my questions!
This is for a super budget build daily racecar lol.
I do have a spare harness, so I might try and using that first with the plug and pin set. I'm already having to convince my financial manager (wife) that this is even needed haha.

Thanks!

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Sounds like the Elite 550 would probably suit you well. It's similar to the Sprint RE but based on the Elite architecture. It will feature VE tuning and automated injector staging. Similar to the current Elite 750 with 4 injection and ignition drivers instead of 6.

4 x ignition
4 x injection
4 x DPO
2 x spare AVI
1 x DPI

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

I think I am starting to sound like a nut swinger or something... but I will say it again lol

Please consider getting your haltech and premade harness from C.Ludwig. The attention to detail, the help with tunning (even though he didn't tune my car), help with other matters that had nothing to do with the ECU purchase, etc. Top notch haltech seller, but the most important part, the feedback and support that he provides AFTER the transaction = PRICELESS!

BTW - His pre made harness was a straight bolt on affair.

R.O.D

iTrader: (3)

I know the car game is one where you gotta pay to play. But army (and wife..) have me on quite the budget lol. I know haltech is some super good ****, but it understandably comes at a cost.. found a guy selling a ps1k for 800. Just waiting on funds to come through. I'll probably end up wiring it myself with a spare harness I have. Although dreaming about a fresh plug n play harness is about enough to make me sell a kidney for lol.