slo

iTrader: (1)

Ok, here it is. I have been out of the country for the last few weeks on vacation. I got home last night and started the car. Ran it for about 3-4 minutes, everything normal. So I come home at lunch and decide to take the rx7 back to work. Put the key in and turn it, something is missing. Its the sound of the fuel pump priming. Turn the key and it spins over good with my near new battery but dosen't start. Grab the laptop and it can't connect to the ECU. Check the fuses and the relay's all good. pull the ECU and look for power and ground. Both good.

So unless someone has any othe ideas, I am going to send the unit to haltech to have them diagnose it.

Tsi_Xtreme

is it a E6X? I had the same problem within 150 miles of tuning on my haltech. Turns out the com port inside the haltech went out and I had to send it aussy to be fixed. Took about 2 months to get it back.

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

A comm chip problem wont explain the fact that the ECU isnt powering up, clicking the relays, it would start and run, but you couldnt connect, so its gotta be something else.

Send it to Haltech to get checked. Ive heard of a few X's going like that, its really odd.

slo

iTrader: (1)

Its an E8,
Could it be maybe an alternator voltage spike?

RETed

I've had my E8 not respond a few times, and I'm trying to diagnose it as we speak.
There's no real consistent situation where it doesn't want to fire, but having it sit around for a long time (like over 24 hours) seems to be the only consistent variable.

I've always been able to get it to fire up after I KOKO two times.
It has always fired after the third try...


-Ted

slo

iTrader: (1)

"I've had my E8 not respond a few times"

when you say not respond do you mean nothing, mine is completely dead.

What is KOKO?

This doesn't give me much confidence in the reliability of this thing.

Here is the status. I checked every pin on the harness. I have power where there should be power, the grounds are good, there is no shorts. I found nothing wrong. I took the alternator to my friend who works at an autozone and he did an extended test it came back good but that doesn't completley remove the possibility of it producing a random voltage spike.

As it turns out Haltech USA is 40 miles from my house.

I sent it UPS ground, and it will be there in the morning.

If they can't fix it here and I have to wait 2 months to get it back from austraila (they mentioned this as a possibility) then when it gets back it will go on ebay.

RETed

Yeah, mines just temporarily doesn't do anything.
It sounds like yours is worse.


Sorry, "key off / key on".


-Ted

13BT510

RETed - your problem is fuel pressure, your keying on and not getting a prime (or the prime is excessively short). This issue has been addressed by Haltech in the latest firmware upgrade that will be available shortly so im told (i have 2 customers with the same issue - it appears to only be the case in direct fire mode).

slo - you have blown the 1 Ohm resistor that is notorious for blowing up if there is a spike of energy passed through the main power supply to the ECU - possibly caused by a battery charger or disconnecting/reconnecting a battery cable or an alternator running unregulated. Yo ucan fix this problem at home by opening the ECU and soldering across the terminals of the resistor that is blown (you will know it when you see it - its on the underside of the PCB down the back...it will be the one that is split in half).
I have been told by Haltech that its OK just to solder across this and bridge it out - this resistor is not part of the over voltage protection circuit, it was an afterthought for noise compensation - this is why it is the first thing on the circuit (because it was an afterthought).

Thats what i would say you both have going on - neither if which is a reliability issue as such...both fixes are permanent.

slo

iTrader: (1)

I wish you would have said that earlier, but I allready sent it to haltech. The US office, thats only around 40 miles from my house. They tell me that with a little luck I can pick the unit up tommorow, so no big deal I guess.

13BT510

Sorry man - i know i am abit slow....i cant help that im half greek - its in my blood to be slow

slo

iTrader: (1)

Haltech fixed the e8 under waranty. I got it back tonight.

There service is commendable...

RETed

No, the ECU is dead temporarily.
Set-up is on an FC running stock coils.
The stock tach is still connected to the trailings.
I can verify the ignition is firing by watching the stock tach jump.
When it doesn't respond, the stock tach doesn't jump.

I also happened to have the laptop connected one time when it did do this, the ECU disconnected from the laptop when this happened.

It might be my wiring issue, since the install isn't finalized yet.

Also, I had an AC inverter still connected - dunno why this would matter - but ever since I removed it, it has never died on me yet.

Thanx for the heads-up on the new firmware release.


-Ted

slo

iTrader: (1)

BTW it was the resistor just as 13bt510 said, and they did bridge the board and eliminate it.

13BT510

RETed - yeah sounds like your baby is turning off all together...could be a wiring thing...i have done a couple of tunes where the wire job has had the grey +12V ign wire that turns the haltech on has been wired to an accessories wire on the harness and switched off under cranking, or switched off at a certain position of the key in the ignition barrel....talk about pain in the butt to find that one....it was the ECU disconnect popping up that gives it away though !

By the way slo - glad you got your ECU back quickly man...its so much better now haltech can do repairs in the US

davedge

Sounds good!

2rotors

IS THIS A GENERIC HALTECH PROBLEM OR FOR SPECIFIC MODELS?.... DOES THE BRIDGE FIX HAPPEN FOR THE F10X?

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Hello! does anybody have pictures of the one ohm resistor? Is it on the back on the top right? Mine just died for no reason also.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

I found the 1 ohm resistor that blew, and soldered the solders together. It was semi successful. Now my fuel pump turns on, but I have no ignition, and it wont talk to my laptop. It will ask if I want to go online, but then sit at 0%. ANY help ASAP would be awesome! Need to dyno tomorrow.

prjct87rx7

iTrader: (7)

lol last time my car ran it ran fine,brought it out to wash it put it back in the garage, now 3 weeks later it just wont start. turns over gets spark,fuel pump is priming but plugs are bone dry. what do you guys think it is injector drivers? maybe my primaries wich are new 2,500 miles???

calicrewchief

iTrader: (2)

This same exact thing just happened to me with my e6x. Just sent it to haltech today.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Could someone please take a picture of the back of their e11v2. Either stock or modified after the resistor broke. My burnt resistor was facing a weird way, and I am wondering if I didn't solder the correct points together.

im pretty sure the e8 is the same also.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Ok, lucky me, I took pictures before I soldered. This picture makes me think that I might have soldered the two WRONG points together ( at least I REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY hope its wrong)

here are some pictures of before.





and after I soldered *(This solder is HORRID, I had a much better one, just I took it off and put this one on, in fear that there was something under my solder I didnt see causing a problem)







Could someone post a picture of where the resistor goes STOCK PLEASE!

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

ok, well I sent my e11 into haltech and they did some tests for 3 days. He figured out that the PDC (I think its PDC) chip is bad, and thats why the unit would work when I would cool it off in the fridge for a bit. He confirmed that it was NOT my wiring or anything that I could have done. That is also why the little 0 ohm resistor blew, and it was acting funny after I bridged the resistor.

They are shipping it out to australia right now. He says it will take 3-6 weeks. (VERY VERY SAD FACE ) I asked for a temporary unit while I wait, and they shot that idea down. (another sad face) Looks like my fresh build will have to wait 9 months while I am at school, or I will have to find a temporary e11 so I can get it tuned and drive it to college and back a few times while my ECU gets here.

Anyways, thanks for all the help from people. My unit was a new older unit, (I think 2002), and thats why he thinks the chip blew after 200+ miles. Hopefully haltech will put in a newer chip in there so I won't have this problem again.

Although I am still a little pissed about how long I will have to wait, and that it blew in the first place, this was one of the better customer services I have got. Especially knowing that my ECU is way out of warranty. You just dont see good customer service now days.

(actually BDC was the best customer service I ever had, I wish he built turbos and ECUs! )

Anyways, thanks for all the help in trying to fix the problem, it turns out it was just a old/bad chip.

~Tweak

calicrewchief

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=slo;5863507]Ok, here it is. I have been out of the country for the last few weeks on vacation. I got home last night and started the car. Ran it for about 3-4 minutes, everything normal. So I come home at lunch and decide to take the rx7 back to work. Put the key in and turn it, something is missing. Its the sound of the fuel pump priming. Turn the key and it spins over good with my near new battery but dosen't start. Grab the laptop and it can't connect to the ECU. Check the fuses and the relay's all good. pull the ECU and look for power and ground. Both good.
QUOTE]

I'm experiencing this same problem with my E6X. The ecu has been to AUS once already for the same problem. Through emails with the technician I was told that there was nothing wrong with it and the E6X doesn't have that fail safe resistor installed. After I installed it everything was peachy and no problems pursisted. Any ideas?