StarScreaM2k1

So getting serious with the Haltech choosing between the E6X and the E8 (gonna probably go with the E8). I have a few questions, i beleive one or two of them i had asked before, jsut want some clearification:

1) From what i read ALL stock gauges will work fine except the boost gauge (is that true?), Also the sensors i will be using will now be the haltech sensors so do i have to re wire the stock gauges to work with the haltech gauges? How have others worked this out?

2) Would it be better for me to ditch the factory Cluster and just redo the gauges. Since i already have a aftermarket Boost gauge and Coolant temp gauge, i also have a EGT gauge. So all i would need to add would be oil pressure, Tach, speedo and fuel level. I am wondering if thats a better route to go, jsut trying to wonder what the cost would be and if it would be worth it or if i have to do it. Opinons? thoughts?

3) The ECU engine harness gets removed and thats it correct? Everything will work correctly or is there more then meets the eye?

4) Idoit lights? Will they still function? I was under the impression they work off the stock ECU as well and if thats gone its not gonna work correctly. Can anyone shed some light on thi? How have other Haltech users done this. Because if they dont work i may get a 3 gauge pod (like the one 5one5 makes) and put that there, but thats only if it doesnt work.

5) Is there something else i should worry about? or do? I just want to know exactly what i am getting into here.

Thanks!

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

First off, the gauge thing has been answered tons of times, yes, all your gauges will work, only one that needs to be rewired is the Coolant Temp. Your idiot lights run off a different harness i believe as well, so no worries there.

The aftermarket dash is a cool idea but lots of work.

Yes, you remove the engine harness, and as i said earlier, the coolant temp wire comes in through there and goes into the vehicle harness then to the dash. A FSM will explain this in detail.

There isnt anything to worry about, E8/E6X installation onto an FC is very straight forward, but if you dont know what you're doing its best to leave it to the pros to make it right the first time and eliminate the headaches that come from not knowing what to do and messing everything up or having your car down for months.

Other than that, Haltech and rotaries go hand in hand like bacon and eggs, death and taxes, finger and nail...

StarScreaM2k1

Well i am planning on having it installed my a pro, and i may help. I am pretty good with electronic wiring. I personally like to do the solder/heatwrap rather then electical tape garbage. The installer is willing to cut me a deal i think if i do some of the grunt work.

Well since all those are set to rest, now the only thing is to decide e6x or e8 (like final choice) i been going back and forth between the two. features vs cost vs my goals/what i need.

Thanks for your help.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

For reference on your 10th Annie.

The wires you'll need to pull from the engine harness are:

Wipers
Cruise (if needed)
Water temp sensor wires.

NOW. The neat part is (not sure on S5's) that Mazda must've had telepathy because ALL of these wires (including the cold start assist...which is garbage) are on 1 plug. They all run into the loom of the engine harness, but plug into 1 dark yellow, semi-see through plug with 9 pins. So all you need to do is cut the 2 wires for the water temp gauge (1 goes to the sender by the oil pressure sender, near the spark plugs.........its yellow and something. The other goes to the single pin sender on the water pump housing....its blue and something) But thats all you save from the engine harness. And it comes in a neat little package that you simply plug back in.

Only function you lose by throwing the ECU in the trash in the stock boost gauge. The oil pressure sender runs with the body harness, it doesn't get touched. Simply re-wire the two mentioned wires, and reattach the plug in the passenger kick panel and your wipers, cruise (if you use it) and water temp. will all work.

StarScreaM2k1

IS there anyway to keep the boost gauge working? I dunno i am kinda **** about having working gauges. Like i know its inaccurate and i have a aftermarket gauge. But ugh.. i want to have things works. Drives me nutz when ppl get in the car and they are like "why is your car broken" OMFG /me stop car kick person out/.... yeah..

slo

iTrader: (1)

you can allways replace the stock boost gauge with a voltage gauge. Far more usefull IMO.

RETed

Keep the stock boost sensor and wiring...


-Ted

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

what about the pressure sensor near the ECU?

this was in a S4 N/A
im guesing its in a TII also or not??
if so does this sensor get removed? is the wiring in the main ECU harness that goes to the sensor?

**edit**
i guess you could just leave it in there if your not using the stock harness anymore right?

RETed

ATM sensor has nothing to do with the stock boost gauge.
Haltech doesn't need it, so it can be removed.


-Ted