93redFD

before i was having a problem out of my engines idle once the motor warmed up. The motor was idling between 1000-2500 rpms. I was going through under the uim and I noticed that one of the wire was pulled out of the air temp connector. Would this be the problem for my idle? I knew something wasnt right when the engine data was reading -40 all the time on the haltech for air temp.
Also my fans were not cuting on at 190f like there supposed to. Would this have anything to do with it? I havent had a chance to start the car becuase of a leaking fuel rail. Just curius to see if I have fixed my problem yet. thanks

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

if the air temp has a correction at -40 it will cause all kinds of wierd problems

mike

93redFD

well maybe not, bad luck agian. Im still happy about my fuel system not leaking.
I thought it was the air temp sensor but its working now and still a bad idle. I paid more attention this time and I noticed when the car starts to idle between 1000 to 2000 rpms the throttle position reads fualt but when I press the gas pedal it reads the position,wierd. Could it be my tps sensor? I still having trouble understanding how it could be a sensor or anything in the engine bay, ithe car didn't do this until I loaded another map. Im going to call a guy tommorow and see if he can possibly find my old map(long story why I dont have the map).
Please, if anyone has any ideas please post them. I dont have my manuel anymore(it got burn, long story) and its very hard to use the free one on the haltech site sense I dont have a computer there(no printer either).
I havent zero'd my timming yet, could this be my problem? any ideas? please help

tims

zeroing the timing and calibrating the throttle should be the first thing you do before making any other corrections. and before even attempting to start the engine make sure all electrical connections are good and all sensors are reading a reasonable number, -40* is obviously not right. I would also make sure to check for any vacuum leaks once all the above items are taken care of.

adamlewis

I had two large vacuum leaks when I first started my car that gave me a 2500rpm idle...

Maybe you removed something and just forgot to cap it off? Its worth a look.

93redFD

well i though it was a vacum leak but I really doubt it. It did this on my LAST motor also. The car idle normal for about 10 mins or so before the bad idle came back, I turned the car off and cranked it back up and idled for a couple of mins and back to the bad idle. Its kinda hard to believe its a vacuum leak, but its doing the same thing a massive vacuum leak would do. If It did this with the new motor and right when I started it then I would think vacuum, but not on too motors,no.
The throttle has been calibrated though, but i have not zero the timming. If anybody can tell me how or which page in the manuel that discuss zeroing the timming it would be helpful.

adamlewis

If you have any type of turbo inlet ducting, cover it up. If you have a vacuum leak, youll hear it sucking from somewhere.

If you dont, the engine will die.

tims

chapter 5 section 5.3 page 52 of my manual.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

sir, yes sir!

93redFD

ok i found the problem this time,for sure. The ISC has gone bad. I still havent zero'd timing yet becuase my computer has been down and have not been able to get on. Im so happy that this problem is fix. I drove my car for the first time this year 2 days ago(its my daily driver if that tells you anything)
Im now having a problem with the 40 amp fuse blowing in the main fuse box. So far I have blown 2 of them at cold start up. One blew just morning and one blew about 45 min ago. I disconected a connector that went to the antenna motor(in the back of the car) and ever sence its blown fuse at cold start up. i diconnected it just morning and after I fired it up the fuse blew. Its fuse with b1 on it. Im about to do some research and see if thats why it blowing.
thanks for the replies everybody.