Haltech EMI interference and sheilding
01-26-07, 02:46 PM
#1
registered user
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,469
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
EMI interference and sheilding
Does anyone have a source for sheilding, that I can put over the stock CAS and more importantly the plug and wire. I am getting, and have been since I have been running a haltech, trigger noise. I am very worried about this, this what caused my first engine to blow, (my fault I will admit). In any case, I have had some light but audible knock in some situations, that is clearly caused by trigger noise (can be seen in datalogs). Taking tons of timing and adjusting the gains and filters prevents the knock, but I get into a situation where there is noise at idle with one setting, but no noise at load, and noise in load with a setting but none at ide.
01-26-07, 03:03 PM
#2
EFI Tech Wannabe
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: D.R., USA, the world...
Posts: 2,405
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Originally Posted by slo
Does anyone have a source for sheilding, that I can put over the stock CAS and more importantly the plug and wire. I am getting, and have been since I have been running a haltech, trigger noise. I am very worried about this, this what caused my first engine to blow, (my fault I will admit). In any case, I have had some light but audible knock in some situations, that is clearly caused by trigger noise (can be seen in datalogs). Taking tons of timing and adjusting the gains and filters prevents the knock, but I get into a situation where there is noise at idle with one setting, but no noise at load, and noise in load with a setting but none at ide.
Or have you tried all this exactly already?
01-26-07, 04:16 PM
#3
registered user
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,469
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I will try again, but I have pretty much tried most of that allready. The wires are routed as best they can be with the cas being where mazda put it.
First off, Current gain and filter settings, Trigger filter 2 gain 3 Home filter 2 gain 2.
If I set filters and gains to zero, I get the best idle, but some interference arount 2K rpm. But then there is another problem, car won't register rpm when cranking, and won't start. That seems like a weird pair to be together, best idle and won't start but thats what it is.
With filters at 2 gains at 0, it will start and run ok, but idle is crappy (trigger signal fluctuates)
Car won't infact start with trigger filter at anything but 2, no matter what the gain is set at, but as I said will run better after startup with the filter down.
I think I may be getting interference through the CAS plug. I wrapped it with aluminum foil, and the problem actually got better but didn't go away completely. Thats not the proper way to sheild cable afterall as any sheilding should be grounded.
Plug wires are routed as far as possible from the cas plug/trigger input cable.
They are new, and I am using standard plugs BTW.
I swiched out and rewired the CAS at least twice. I am thinking of taking the cover off the cas and running the haltech input wires soldered dirrectly to the pick ups inside the cas. That way the sheilded haltech cable can go into the cas where it would be sheilded all the way.
Thanks
First off, Current gain and filter settings, Trigger filter 2 gain 3 Home filter 2 gain 2.
If I set filters and gains to zero, I get the best idle, but some interference arount 2K rpm. But then there is another problem, car won't register rpm when cranking, and won't start. That seems like a weird pair to be together, best idle and won't start but thats what it is.
With filters at 2 gains at 0, it will start and run ok, but idle is crappy (trigger signal fluctuates)
Car won't infact start with trigger filter at anything but 2, no matter what the gain is set at, but as I said will run better after startup with the filter down.
I think I may be getting interference through the CAS plug. I wrapped it with aluminum foil, and the problem actually got better but didn't go away completely. Thats not the proper way to sheild cable afterall as any sheilding should be grounded.
Plug wires are routed as far as possible from the cas plug/trigger input cable.
They are new, and I am using standard plugs BTW.
I swiched out and rewired the CAS at least twice. I am thinking of taking the cover off the cas and running the haltech input wires soldered dirrectly to the pick ups inside the cas. That way the sheilded haltech cable can go into the cas where it would be sheilded all the way.
Thanks
Originally Posted by Claudio RX-7
Ok, i want to intervean here and ask what are your gain and filter settings like right now. I would then recommend you set them both to zero first, then see what kind of results that gives, if you get noise, raise the filter up one and keep the gain at zero, if the noise goes away leave it like that, if the noise is still there raise the filter to 2 and try again. If there is still noise that way then i would consider running the trigger wire (thick grey shielded) completely around all electrical devices, this also includes spark plug cables, MSD boxes, coils, alternator, etc., then try again. If noise is still there, then try additional shielding for that wire.
Or have you tried all this exactly already?
Or have you tried all this exactly already?
01-26-07, 04:45 PM
#4
EFI Tech Wannabe
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: D.R., USA, the world...
Posts: 2,405
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Originally Posted by slo
I will try again, but I have pretty much tried most of that allready. The wires are routed as best they can be with the cas being where mazda put it.
First off, Current gain and filter settings, Trigger filter 2 gain 3 Home filter 2 gain 2.
If I set filters and gains to zero, I get the best idle, but some interference arount 2K rpm. But then there is another problem, car won't register rpm when cranking, and won't start. That seems like a weird pair to be together, best idle and won't start but thats what it is.
With filters at 2 gains at 0, it will start and run ok, but idle is crappy (trigger signal fluctuates)
Car won't infact start with trigger filter at anything but 2, no matter what the gain is set at, but as I said will run better after startup with the filter down.
I think I may be getting interference through the CAS plug. I wrapped it with aluminum foil, and the problem actually got better but didn't go away completely. Thats not the proper way to sheild cable afterall as any sheilding should be grounded.
Plug wires are routed as far as possible from the cas plug/trigger input cable.
They are new, and I am using standard plugs BTW.
I swiched out and rewired the CAS at least twice. I am thinking of taking the cover off the cas and running the haltech input wires soldered dirrectly to the pick ups inside the cas. That way the sheilded haltech cable can go into the cas where it would be sheilded all the way.
Thanks
First off, Current gain and filter settings, Trigger filter 2 gain 3 Home filter 2 gain 2.
If I set filters and gains to zero, I get the best idle, but some interference arount 2K rpm. But then there is another problem, car won't register rpm when cranking, and won't start. That seems like a weird pair to be together, best idle and won't start but thats what it is.
With filters at 2 gains at 0, it will start and run ok, but idle is crappy (trigger signal fluctuates)
Car won't infact start with trigger filter at anything but 2, no matter what the gain is set at, but as I said will run better after startup with the filter down.
I think I may be getting interference through the CAS plug. I wrapped it with aluminum foil, and the problem actually got better but didn't go away completely. Thats not the proper way to sheild cable afterall as any sheilding should be grounded.
Plug wires are routed as far as possible from the cas plug/trigger input cable.
They are new, and I am using standard plugs BTW.
I swiched out and rewired the CAS at least twice. I am thinking of taking the cover off the cas and running the haltech input wires soldered dirrectly to the pick ups inside the cas. That way the sheilded haltech cable can go into the cas where it would be sheilded all the way.
Thanks
So, what you have to do is that, set them both to zero, crank it, if you get noise, raise the filter one point, if you dont and it picks up rpm, start it like that. If it doesnt pick up rpm, and there is no spiking, raise the gain 1 point.
If you have it where the gain is at 0 and the filter is at 2, and there is still noise, the more shielding is needed.
If you have it where it wont read rpms and wont start with gain to zero filter zero, raise gain one point at a time till you get an RPM reading, remember to reset the ECU (shut off the ignition switch and turn it back on) so that the changes apply, this goes for each time you change any or them or both.
I know it can be daunting, but its the way to do it.
Also, bad spark plug wires, arcking of any kind (both from plug wires, coils, or other devices) is also interferance. Point where spark plug wires might run paralelle to the trigger wires, also produce interferance.
01-26-07, 06:10 PM
#5
registered user
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,469
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, are you aware that you cant change trigger gain and filter values with the engine on? or even with it off, you still have to RESET the ECU for the values to apply, you might see a value on the screen, but that doesnt mean its the value the ECU has in its program/memory.
So, what you have to do is that, set them both to zero, crank it, if you get noise, raise the filter one point, if you dont and it picks up rpm, start it like that. If it doesnt pick up rpm, and there is no spiking, raise the gain 1 point.
If you have it where the gain is at 0 and the filter is at 2, and there is still noise, the more shielding is needed.
If you have it where it wont read rpms and wont start with gain to zero filter zero, raise gain one point at a time till you get an RPM reading, remember to reset the ECU (shut off the ignition switch and turn it back on) so that the changes apply, this goes for each time you change any or them or both.
I know it can be daunting, but its the way to do it.
Also, bad spark plug wires, arcking of any kind (both from plug wires, coils, or other devices) is also interferance. Point where spark plug wires might run paralelle to the trigger wires, also produce interferance.
So, what you have to do is that, set them both to zero, crank it, if you get noise, raise the filter one point, if you dont and it picks up rpm, start it like that. If it doesnt pick up rpm, and there is no spiking, raise the gain 1 point.
If you have it where the gain is at 0 and the filter is at 2, and there is still noise, the more shielding is needed.
If you have it where it wont read rpms and wont start with gain to zero filter zero, raise gain one point at a time till you get an RPM reading, remember to reset the ECU (shut off the ignition switch and turn it back on) so that the changes apply, this goes for each time you change any or them or both.
I know it can be daunting, but its the way to do it.
Also, bad spark plug wires, arcking of any kind (both from plug wires, coils, or other devices) is also interferance. Point where spark plug wires might run paralelle to the trigger wires, also produce interferance.
Or perhaps it only affects either gains or filters.
I just did a test where I started with my current settings, while looking at the data display screen of the data log, I held it at 2k rpm, changed settings and was able to see trigger noise in the data log, and hear misfiring. Changed it back still running and the misfiring/noise disapered.
Also, 7.1 does not have a popup for "you must restart for changes to take effect" when changing gains/filters, I know I have seen that in a previous version, though it might have been one of the beta's...
01-26-07, 06:10 PM
#6
registered user
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,469
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, are you aware that you cant change trigger gain and filter values with the engine on? or even with it off, you still have to RESET the ECU for the values to apply, you might see a value on the screen, but that doesnt mean its the value the ECU has in its program/memory.
So, what you have to do is that, set them both to zero, crank it, if you get noise, raise the filter one point, if you dont and it picks up rpm, start it like that. If it doesnt pick up rpm, and there is no spiking, raise the gain 1 point.
If you have it where the gain is at 0 and the filter is at 2, and there is still noise, the more shielding is needed.
If you have it where it wont read rpms and wont start with gain to zero filter zero, raise gain one point at a time till you get an RPM reading, remember to reset the ECU (shut off the ignition switch and turn it back on) so that the changes apply, this goes for each time you change any or them or both.
I know it can be daunting, but its the way to do it.
Also, bad spark plug wires, arcking of any kind (both from plug wires, coils, or other devices) is also interferance. Point where spark plug wires might run paralelle to the trigger wires, also produce interferance.
So, what you have to do is that, set them both to zero, crank it, if you get noise, raise the filter one point, if you dont and it picks up rpm, start it like that. If it doesnt pick up rpm, and there is no spiking, raise the gain 1 point.
If you have it where the gain is at 0 and the filter is at 2, and there is still noise, the more shielding is needed.
If you have it where it wont read rpms and wont start with gain to zero filter zero, raise gain one point at a time till you get an RPM reading, remember to reset the ECU (shut off the ignition switch and turn it back on) so that the changes apply, this goes for each time you change any or them or both.
I know it can be daunting, but its the way to do it.
Also, bad spark plug wires, arcking of any kind (both from plug wires, coils, or other devices) is also interferance. Point where spark plug wires might run paralelle to the trigger wires, also produce interferance.
Or perhaps it only affects either gains or filters.
I just did a test where I started with my current settings, while looking at the data display screen of the data log, I held it at 2k rpm, changed settings and was able to see trigger noise in the data log, and hear misfiring. Changed it back still running and the misfiring/noise disapered.
Also, 7.1 does not have a popup for "you must restart for changes to take effect" when changing gains/filters, I know I have seen that in a previous version, though it might have been one of the beta's...
Thanks for the advice..
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
toplessFC3Sman
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
6
03-20-18 01:54 PM
