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For knock, we run the car on the dyno at as low boost as possible and record the db. Use this as a base setting for the threshold. Haltech's values are real close to what we've found doing this.
Well, concentric slave is all installed and how has a pedal stop installed to suit.
unfortunately they scratch the front bumper to ****... (bloody mechanics that don't pay attention..)
But drove it home!
Wow the VE closed loop tuning is bloody impressive. No boost in it yet but got home all good with just the base map in.
also the new haltech software has sorted out not been able the long term trims - all fixed on the idle control now.
running good - Dyno session in a few weeks + the tuner doing some fuel flex E85 runs for me.
ARF's are about the same - small changes in the vac vales.
Timing - didnt compare
Split - small changes
Knock - map is similar but the setting of the sensor are completely new
Injectoin angle - Wow all new and big change
omp map - Map all new much more variable
Transient throttle - 15% changes in some spots
So looks like they have done quite a bit of work to it, Personally I'll update most of the new configuration and see how I go.
I have my Dyno tune in 2 weeks so getting close to been 100% up and running.
So did some cruising on the weekend with the new base map - WOW what a difference.
Almost starts right up now.
Feel like Ive tuned most of the map below 0 psi now, will wait for the dyno next Sat to get it donw professionally.
still playing with some settings - but very pleased on how easy the software is. (had my brother with no knowledge of the system just pressing Q and W on the road
Does anyone have a fuel correction map that I can have a look at as a reference. Im guessing using 40% accross all cells would be a starting point ?
But keen to see what others have done.
Also with the AFR for fuel composition why is it not % are they just new AFR's? that override the base ones? Or o the new AFR setting just overwrite the target map?
Start out by reading how the fuel comp correction map work in the help/manual section. It's different than the way the Sport did it. Start with that map set to 0% across the board.
AFR comp is +/- whatever you enter. So if you're base AFR is 14.7 and you enter -.2 in the comp map, the 100% scaled comp value would be 14.5.
Seriously trying to get all the fuel from my lines, surge tank, main tank, return lines etc is so friggin hard. Cant get the E85% up to 100%. (best I got it to was 46%) And cant turn the car on as playing with the wastegates
Given up and trying to go back to pumpfuel and get the guys in the workshop to do it. (but now struggling to get all the E85 out.. :P)
Get Dyno tuned tomorrow. Will post the results.
(attached current map just fyi for future reference - no boost tuned in yet)
Seriously trying to get all the fuel from my lines, surge tank, main tank, return lines etc is so friggin hard. Cant get the E85% up to 100%. (best I got it to was 46%) And cant turn the car on as playing with the wastegates
Given up and trying to go back to pumpfuel and get the guys in the workshop to do it. (but now struggling to get all the E85 out.. :P)
Get Dyno tuned tomorrow. Will post the results.
(attached current map just fyi for future reference - no boost tuned in yet)
out BP98 (different to what you get in the USA) was good.
Got 401rwhp, 288 ftlb torque at only 13.5psi
So I made 10 less hp then what I made previous on 5psi less boost, so happy with that. Ill compare charts later.
In regards to E85 tune, had a few halech issued change some ideas (went down the 4 fuel map option) as with the correct we where getting negative fuel answers...
anyway started to get some better results and blew the clutch at 5ishK on the decel with 400 ftlb.
So now need a diff that hold up to some E85 power levels!
out BP98 (different to what you get in the USA) was good.
Got 401rwhp, 288 ftlb torque at only 13.5psi
So I made 10 less hp then what I made previous on 5psi less boost, so happy with that. Ill compare charts later.
In regards to E85 tune, had a few halech issued change some ideas (went down the 4 fuel map option) as with the correct we where getting negative fuel answers...
anyway started to get some better results and blew the clutch at 5ishK on the decel with 400 ftlb.
So now need a diff that hold up to some E85 power levels!
Impressive numbers!!
sorry to hear about the clutch, time for a dual clutch? Which one are you currently using?
Start out by reading how the fuel comp correction map work in the help/manual section. It's different than the way the Sport did it. Start with that map set to 0% across the board.
AFR comp is +/- whatever you enter. So if you're base AFR is 14.7 and you enter -.2 in the comp map, the 100% scaled comp value would be 14.5.
Oh wow. I do like that, like a lot.
Originally Posted by Havoc
Seriously trying to get all the fuel from my lines, surge tank, main tank, return lines etc is so friggin hard. Cant get the E85% up to 100%. (best I got it to was 46%) And cant turn the car on as playing with the wastegates
Given up and trying to go back to pumpfuel and get the guys in the workshop to do it. (but now struggling to get all the E85 out.. :P)
Get Dyno tuned tomorrow. Will post the results.
(attached current map just fyi for future reference - no boost tuned in yet)
I know this was a while back, but for future reference...you can pop a fuel line off of the care in the engine bay and route it to a gas tank or bucket, or even just splice is a dual end hose barb and extra hose from lowes to make it fit. Then go into the ECU software and invert the fuel pump output. I don't know how this is done on a haltech elite, but I'm sure its there. Then the pump s will run with the ignition in the off position and drain your tank/lines completely. I would start this process by starting the car and pulling the main fuel relay brick while it was running so as to burn the fuel out of the lines so I doesn't go everywhere when you separate the hose.
Anyways,
I've been following this thread for a while. I'm a transplant from the adaptronic section, and will be tuning my car on a haltech here really soon. I'll be watching! Good luck
yeah to make the E85 change over easier I put a Y fitting in the fuel system witha shut off valve and cap. This was during the install. But worked well. Its just helps empty the 3L surge tank!
Shows the Y block
once its back up I just connect a line and it drains the system
In regards to tune, ITs been running great. Love the drive by wire idle control. Car hasnt stalled once from a Decel. And on startup and low coolant temps the idle control is perfect.
I do have one major issue in the tune that I will need to get fixed another time (a long story)
The Haltech one idles really well and steady but is a slug to take off on (and on the short clutch throw you really feel the lack fo power)
The tuner one the engine rocks about a bit - but you can take off super well.
Is there a good blend of the 2? Or can I map the drivers pedal input to change the timing just as I start to give it any movement? Then at 0% movement it does -5ign?
yea I've been playing with it little here too, and I also find it very difficult to get moving.. I have to feather the clutch at 5k rpm so it wouldn't die trying to get the car to move from standstill.
If you can post some tuning tips, that would be massively helpful. thanks man.
are you using MAP vs RPM or TPS vs RPM for fuel trim?
The map you're showing is for zero throttle angle only. So as soon as you feed it throttle to get it moving it's coming off of that map and referencing the base ignition map. You can make changes there to influence how the car gets rolling. Another option is to build a generic ignition map with TPS as an axis that will overlay with the base map. That would give you TPS and MAP control over ignition angle.
For stickmantijuana, if you have to feed it that many revs to get it rolling, you have a basic mapping issue. I'd suspect fuel tuning as much as ignition. Clutch type and flywheel weight will also effect this but 5k is a lot!
Originally Posted by Havoc
I did have one question about tuning.
In the haltech base map they used:
And mu tuner did this:
The Haltech one idles really well and steady but is a slug to take off on (and on the short clutch throw you really feel the lack fo power)
The tuner one the engine rocks about a bit - but you can take off super well.
Is there a good blend of the 2? Or can I map the drivers pedal input to change the timing just as I start to give it any movement? Then at 0% movement it does -5ign?
thanks for the heads up. Car's off the road as moving house but will have a play in about a month when life stabilises a bit!
Chris,
Ive been reading a bit on the haltech forums about self-learning Short Term trims. Seems to be a lack of public information about it.
Do you know of any good documents I can read to find out more about it. (as would probably help significantly when first tuning from the updated base maps)
thanks c-ludwig, will try that as soon as my I switch out the injectors. do you think you can answer my question on the 20b forum? need product number for ID 1050x injector that will fit my d -series 20b primary holes. does FD injector work for both primary and secondary?
havoc, if you update the haltech program, I found the new help section very helpful. You can search for any particular function and it gives you definition of every line that's on the software. I moved from microtech and all these new functions were foreign to me. I was able to understand most things and start playing with it with the new help section. try it out
Stick. All ID's can fit the primary spots - just change the top hats to suit. Im using ID 1000's (primary) and ID 2000's (secondaries).
Ill look at the new download but I found it a bit vague. I understand the LTFT functions. But I don't understand the STFT or the variables that control it.
I understood STFT as temporarily every-millisecond fuel correction by ECU per lambda until LTFT gets enabled. LTFT doesn't get enabled in most normal driving situations unless you have your rpm not moving so much and without much pedal movement among other variables explained in the O2 control section of the help menu. I think STFT tries to minimize the transient variations of lambda while LTFT slowly gets you to target lambda over the course of time. I think there are only 2 things you can set on the STFT, maximum amount it can take away fuel and max amount it can add fuel. Overtime, I think the idea is that you won't need much STFT at all.
thanks for the information on the ID injectors. do you happen to have the product numbers? do you by any chance also have d-series 20b block? just curious whether I can buy ID1000 made for 93-95 rx7 14mm for primary and ID2000 made for 93-95 rx7 14mm as secondary. The configuration seems different for the earlier rx7 models. There is also 11mm option. I was bit confused.
So I had a bit of a read and I think I understand it more now. (wish there were some better tutorials on all this). If I had some time would love to make some to help future users out.
So all my settings are still stock from the base map as I didn't 100% know what I'm doing (which is why I'm asking the questions)
So from what I can tell (Chris please feel free to correct me - any feedback most appreciative)
But I think I need to change my trims. Any feedback would be most helpfull.
12-01-16, 08:13 PM
