Comitatus

iTrader: (7)

Can anyone elaborate on how to install this feature on an S5?

I read the wiring diagram, but I'm electronic diagram illiterate...
Can anyone make it a bit simpler for a lamen like myself?

Any input would be appreciated...

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

Download the E6K Manual, it has a detailed diagram of how to wire it up and set it up.

You will need to use both the Aux.Out (or a PWM) and Aux.In to be able to run it, and 2 relays.

Comitatus

iTrader: (7)

Yep, I have read the diagram. I know i need 2 relays and a manual switch (for overide), but is there any easy place to wire this up, or do i need to hunt for wires up underneath the dash. Just looking for some easy pointers from someone who has done it before. I know I can't be the first one to do it...

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

Well, not really, you just need a power source, make sure you have a good 12V power supply, since the Haltech will need good power to stay on. And of course, you'll need to route battery power to where you'll mount the relays. I suggest you keep both relays in the engine bay, and just extend and route all necesary wires there it will be easiest to work.

Comitatus

iTrader: (7)

Ok...I have wired this up, exactly to spec...solenoids clicking and everything enable within the haltech. And it will not work...Car shuts off the second that I move the key from Run position, to accessory position.

Is there something that I'm doing wrong? I double checked all the wiring with a volt meter, and everything checked out...triple checked the haltech settings, and all good there...there must be something I'm missing.

Help?

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

Ok, ive been going over this for the past few minutes, and have come to the conclusion that you dont need 2 relays, you an use only one, and the diagram doesnt make sense.

Or, correct me if im wrong, but what would happen if you wire the Aux. In to just a toggle switch to ground, this would enable or disable the feature and work like the override switch, eliminating the need for one, then using only one relay getting direct power to the batter to terminals 30 and 86, wiring up a PWM/Aux. Out to the ground side of the relay pin 85, pin 87 on the relay goes to the ignition switch wire that gives power to the car?

Does that make sense? or does this thing actually use 2 relays to dive the current up cause one relay isnt enough? the way i see it wired up, you can use 2 relays, but it would be a little different than whats on the manual example. It would still be like ive just described.

Anybody care to play with my theory or correct me if im wrong. Cause what confuses me is the fact that i was under the impression that the Aux.In wire activated the function when it was grounded, and the diagram shows it being connected to the 12V on the ign. switch.

Comitatus

iTrader: (7)

Ok, here is how I have it wired up...


Does this look right?

I understand your theory behind the one relay, If I can't get this going...I might give it a shot and see what happens.

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

Here's my take on the whole thing, that Aux.In wire is supposed to be grounded to activate the function its assigned to, which is what makes me think theres something wierd with that diagram, and then the aux out or PWM wire just completes the circuit for the relays to keep sending power to the ECU once the feature is activated.

So, i wrote Haltech, and hope they'll give me an explanation about this. So, hopefully we'll be able to clear this up soon enought.

Comitatus

iTrader: (7)

Look at the diagram this way...if you switched the 2 relay schematics, leave all the wiring the same, but just swap the 2 relays, and after looking at some other relay wiring schematics, it almost makes sense they might be backwards. I could be completely wrong...but just a thought.

I talked on the phone with Haltech USA a couple days ago, they told me that if it is all wired up correctly, "it should just work". I went over everything that I did with them, and mentioned that I had my ECU in Imperial mode, and not metric. That raised a question about maybe the ECU programming has a glitch in it with this feature when the ECU is not in Metric mode, like something to do with the conversion of Celcius to Fahrenheit. They told me to switch it over and give it a try...but I haven't had time to do that yet.

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

I finally got a reply from Haltech about this, this is the tech's actual reply:

He also sent me a diagram, here it is. So as it seems, one of the relays in the Haltech drawing is supposed to be the Main Relay, wich will need to be fed the power in order for everything in the car to stay on after the switch is shut off. So you must find the wire that goes from the ignition switch to the main relay to activate it.

In escense, functioning the same way that a turbo timer would, since it does in fact intercept the main relay wire.

Hope this clears up the doubts on this feature. Please remember that if you use the E6X/K/S in turbo timer mode, the Aux. In is taken up and things like NOS or Antilag cant be used.

Comitatus

iTrader: (7)

Ok cool. I tried the recommendation from Haltech USA over the weekend (putting the ECU back into Metric mode) and still a no go. So I will try this. I will take a look at the diagram and see what I can do.

The wire that we have going from the ignition switch is soldered to the wire that sees 12v when the ign is in the RUN position(see my diagram above). I would assume this is the same as finding the wire that you are talking about.

Comitatus

iTrader: (7)

Comparing the two diagrams, it looks as if I have 85 and 30 opposite as what it says on the single relay diagram.

Comitatus

iTrader: (7)

FYI, according to the E6X wiring diagram, comparing the main relay on the diagram with the diagram of the Turbo timer from the Haltech manual. Pin outs 30 and 85 are flip flopped.
The E6X diagram says that on the main relay, 30 is a constant (+) from battery, and 85 is a switched (+).
Other than that, with Turbo Timer Diagram from the manual, it makes sense that the relay on the left is to be considered as the Main ECU Relay, and the second relay is what is needed to created a Turbo Timer circuit. So Claudio, you hit it right on the head...

Now I just have to rewire this thing up, and see if the differences above have an impact...
what do you think about the 85 and 30 being flip flopped?

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

Ok, on one hand you can actually wire up pins 85 and 86 any way you want, they will just close the circuit so the relay feeds pin 30's input (12V battery power) out through pin 87, so, the reason for pin 85 to be 12v battery power and pin 86 PWM/Aux out is that the activation of the relay falls to that PWM wire, when the Haltech grounds that wire the relay becomes enrgized and works how it should, feeding a signal to the main relay so it stays activated and the car works.

You can invert pins 86 and 85, doesnt matter, it will work. Normally you would just ground one of them and the other would be fed a possitive 12v signal to activate the relay, but in this case youre feeding a ground for activation.

Hope that clears up the confusion. Thanks for the guys at Haltech for their help. Hmmm, guess they could change that diagram on the manual and give me some credit!

prjct87rx7

iTrader: (7)

claudio how much do you charge to do the install of the wiring hARNESS ETC?

FCrocious

iTrader: (1)

Has anybody tried it this way successfully yet?
I just wired it up according to that diagram and it does not work.
The haltech stays on all the time when the key is off regardless of how much time passes and what I set the parameters to.
My override switch does work.


Any ideas?

Comitatus

iTrader: (7)

I believe post #10 is the correct wiring procedure. The wiring diagram that comes with the Haltech isn't the best definition for wiring it up.

Or, you could make it real easy, and buy a Greddy Turbo Timer and harness, installs in about 5 minutes. To be honest, that's what I did after trying to fool with all of this.

FCrocious

iTrader: (1)

I called Peter at Haltech, I believe he said he was the one that made that diagram and he is going to bench test it again. Waiting for email back, I'll just do it the 2 relay way depending on what he comes up with.

FCrocious

iTrader: (1)

Got an email back from Haltech.Well looks like the original diagram is the way to go. I'll rewire it and see how it goes.

Claudio_Haltech

I have already gone through with them with this, that diagram is confusing, it doesnt tell you if both the relays have to be fitted or one is the main relay and the other is an extra relay. Did they confirm that Alex??

FCrocious

iTrader: (1)

Yes, the email I quoted above was confirmation from Peter. 2 separate Relays

Claudio_Haltech

If you think about it that doesnt make sense either, since you have to power the rest of the engine bay, not just the Haltech, and the diagram doesnt tell if the relays are both fitted or one is fitted and the other is the main relay, as i said before, i have already gone through this with the Haltech australia guys.

But i havent had chance to test this either, so.

FCrocious

iTrader: (1)

ok just tested it. The diagram works. The 2 relays in the diagram are 2 new relays like you would go out and buy, they are not existing relays in your system. Pretty cool. I've wanted this to work for so long.

FCrocious

iTrader: (1)

Forgot to say; Disregard that diagram with the single relay. I wouldn't want anyone else trying to get it to work and give up.

Comitatus

iTrader: (7)

Interesting. I wired mine up exactly like the diagram, and it did not work. Tried it over and over...still nothing...then got smart and bought an aftermarket TT & harness...installed in 5 minutes, with no extra wiring. Yahtzee!

So, I'm glad you got it to work. Please post up some pics and writeups of your wiring, and maybe that will help clear things up!