GUITARJUNKIE28

well got it all together and fired it up today, but i'm having a hell of a time trying to zero the timing!! so far, i've imported the hitman's s6 map, used k2rd's e6k ignition setup and played with the fuel enough to make it run under its own power.

so anybody got the "real" setup for an rew motor with an e6x? i think all i'll need is the ignition setup--specifically the trigger angle and tooth offset (just to make sure)
other than that, i'll keep playing with it until it's all dialed in.

on a positive note, i'm not having any of those rpm spikes that i had with the fc's. all hail msd wires!!!!
thanks

RETed

Do you guys even realize you can zero out the ignition timing by yourself with a timing gun???


-Ted

GUITARJUNKIE28

^unrelated to my question.

RETed

Uh, you asked about this...
Trigger angle and tooth offset has to do with ignition calibration.
This is what I meant about "zeroing your ignition timing".


-Ted

enzo250

Ted is right.

Rather then trying out other people's map.

Use a timing light, this way you have your "real" setup.

GUITARJUNKIE28

what i'm getting at is i'm running back and forth between the cramped engine compartment and under the hood. timing seems to be pretty far off, so i wanted to see if other guys have maybe a different tooth offset or something to minimize my trips to and from the engine bay.

i'm well aware of HOW to do it.. i'm just lazy and wanted to save time. thanks anyway

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

As a matter of fact, most engines use pretty differnet trigger angles and tooth offsets, but if you manage to turn on the engine and let it rev on its own at 800-1000 rpms, you can just raise or lower the trigger angle to see how close you get, then raise or lower the offset unitll you have it dead on. Sence the REW engines uses fixed crank sensors you dont have to go through the trouble of guestimating the position while incerting the CAS. So it shouldnt be that hard. Remember to lock your timing on or so it wont change on you.

GUITARJUNKIE28

thanks..
i just wanted to see the setup nfo on a running car to give me a better base. fc's are easy cuz you can just twist the crank sensor around to give you a better idea of where you need to be. i just hate the back and forth--especially in the cramped fd.

GUITARJUNKIE28

HA!!
trailing was jacking me up. unplugged them and it's all good.
trigger angle was like 84 degrees if anyone's curious. i'll go fix the trailing now

GUITARJUNKIE28

^scratch that... my bad! better too retarded than too advanced when starting out

dubulup

I started with my angle around 67...and tooth offset at 5 (I believe).

you'll need a timing light and a buddy.

Hook timing light to T1, lock timing to 10, have buddy hold light and look for timing mark on wheel.

while in the car, add thirty to base timing (my example = 97), the car will want to die, so keep it alive with throttle...timing is locked...now have your buddy holla ADVANCE or RETARD...if the mark is on the left advance, move in 1 degree increments...when the mark is dead on with the front cover mark subtract thirty from your base. My example I went down to 71*.

*now I think you can only go as high as 100 maybe 99??? (=70 after subtraction) but I still needed a little advance, so I added a degree once subtracted.

make sense?

GUITARJUNKIE28

i do very much appreciate the help, but i know HOW to set it. just the 67 trigger angle wasn't even close, so i just wanted to know what the trigger angles and offsets were.. looks like everyone's agreeing on 5 for the offset, but where did you end up with the trigger angle?

RETed

You really should not be relying on OTHER people's setting - that was my point.
I guess it still hasn't sunk into your head.

You need to zero out the ignition for YOUR vehicle.
Don't assume it'll be the same for installs on the same model.

With the E11's, we were having settings which were all over the place.
Many have theorized this is due to the different reluctors.

I would never match the settings of an E6X versus an E6K.
I wouldn't even trust E6X settings with all the troubles the units have caused.

This is why you're not getting a straight-forward answer...


-Ted

enzo250

he doesn't seem to understand that

dubulup

but as stated...every REX will be different. K2RD says 67 +/- 5.

If you know how to do it, why isn't it done? <---just a question, not being a smartass.

GUITARJUNKIE28

no need to get harsh ted.

because i just put in 3 days straight on the jasper supra. no sleep this weekend for me!!

RETed

Dude, I know you're smarter than that!
It was getting to the point I was banging my head on the wall there?
Yeah, that's what I get what I **** off a bunch of Aussie huh...


-Ted

GUITARJUNKIE28

lol.
actually i found out when i hook up the trailing, the ignition goes ape-****. i gotta either move the front trailing coil, re-route the trigger line, or maybe just use a t2 coil and mount it somewhere else. in any case, i'm gonna try to get it done today--i've got the whole day to spend on it!! YAY!

for the trigger angle, i figured it would be pretty much the same on all fd's because the crank sensor isnt' adjustable.

anyway, i've got a problem with it (which i didn't know about originally) so i'm going to be working on that before i do anything else. same thing with all the other x's, so i'm going to be VERY VERY careful and make sure it's **** before i start to tune. this one's got a t78 and we're going for mucho hp...i dont' feel like rebuilding another engine right now.

i didn't mean to snap anyway, i just felt like the answers were kinda overly simplified.

GUITARJUNKIE28

ok, here's what's wierd...

car can run and idle perfectly with a tooth offset of 5 and trigger angle somewhere in the 80's,
BUT
the timing marks are nowhere to be found.

i tried a bunch of different tooth offsets (with all different trigger angles for each), but it doesn't seem to like anything lower than 3 or higher than 5.

does it kinda sound like the wheel is on 180'd? but the car ran fine berore (besides the shitty tuning) would the stock ecu run the car if the crank/trigger wheel were on backwards?

dubulup

don't think you can install it backwards...In my travels it seemed to be keyed in such a way, the wheel only goes on one way.

80's seems high. Which spark line are you pulling off of?

I had a 1 gen guy with me and I had to convince him I needed (FD) to put the light on the T1.

GUITARJUNKIE28

i tried it on both t1 and t2 just to make sure i didn't get them backwards.

if i have the timing light on l1, i can see the line, but not on any of the trailing.

i just took all the trailing split out @ idle to test, and it seems as though l1 and t1 are NOT firing at the same time. i'm going to go back over the setup to make sure i didn't boob anything there.

dubulup

I think when you lock the timing, the split is standard...can't recall what it is at the moment...but someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

GUITARJUNKIE28

even if you take it out in the map?

in any case, i should be able to at least see the line-even if it isn't lined up with the pointer exactly. it's way the hell off.
and i did try it on l1 and both t1 and t2....same story

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

4 questions:

1. Did you try raising or lowering the offset with the car idling and looking at where the pointer on the pully went, either left or right?

2. Isnt the base timing on all FC's and FD's supposed to be messured at the leading front spark plug?

3. What is the formula/reasoning behind the trailing split timing?

4. Are you using the factory coils and igniters, no MSD's or ignition boxes? if so, what is your ignition setup like?

GUITARJUNKIE28

1) yes.
2) i am relatively new to fd's, but hte manual says front trailing, but that doesn't matter right now since it looks 180'd (more or less) from the leading..
3) not sure what you mean but what i was getting at is line up the leading somewhere around the line (using the line only as a reference), then take out all the split so the trailing fires at the same time and see if it's anywhere in the general area of the line.
4) stock ignition for now. i wanted to get it ll working right before installing the msd.