H22a/13bt

I have an '85 GS that I've swapped a series 5 13bt into.

The engine is running the stock series 5 CAS and coils. (I have spares of both lead and trail)

The engine does turn on and run, but only the trails are firing.

I've checked "Ignition Out", "Digital Out 1", and "Auxilary Out" for voltage. The voltages are 0.654v to 1.2v (ignition out and digital out 1), and 0v to 0.654v (auxilary out).

I have the coils wired up as follows:

Lead coil:
Tan wire -> 12v (ignition switched)
Black wire -> grounded to body
Pink wire -> light green (from haltech)

Trail coil:
Tan wire -> 12v (ignition switched)
Black wire -> grounded to body
Pink wire -> white/black (from haltech)
White wire -> green/black (from haltech)
Yellow wire -> tachometer

We tested for voltge and found 12volts goin into the coil, found the grounds to have zero volts, but only the trails are working. If anybody sees any errors in the way i have it wired please notify me, and any information would be greatly apprectated!

PICS ARE BELOW:

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

How do you have it setup in the software? There are no tan wires among the coil wires. Just light green, pink, yellow, etc.

The pink wires are correct like you say, and the "tan" wires you mention, i was under the impression that they are light green.

Post your setting so we can verify, or try downloading the a map that closely resembles your setup from the Maps thread.

H22a/13bt

I have the ignition setup in the software as follows:

Trigger Input Int. Reluctor
Trigger Gain 2
Home Input Int. Reluctor
Home Gain 2
Trigger Angle 65 (Base)
Trigger Type Multitooth
Number of Teeth 24
Tooth Offset 11
Spark Mode Distributor
Engine Type Rotary
Output Type Constant Charge
Coil Charge Time 4.5ms
Output Edge Falling

As for the lead coils they only have, 3 wires (other than the spark plug wires) ... tan, pink, and black. I just have the stock FC coils.

From the e6k however I have the light green wire running into the pink, and thats all. The tan is connected to an ignition switched 12volt sourc, and the black is connected to a ground on the body.

Sorry for being unclear : )

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

Well, all looks fine, maybe your K has bad Ign outputs, and since there should be somthing coming out of the Ign1 at least, it makes me think thats whats wrong.

If youd like to email me your map, and i can look at it just to be sure, if not, the Haltech might need to be sent to California.

H22a/13bt

I just sent you a copy of the map I'm using. Hopefully you can find somthing there. I also downloaded one of the maps, you have posted. I'm going to try loading that later today.

About the ignition out(light green), I tested it, and got a voltage that jumped between 0.654volts and 1.2volts. I got the same result when I tested the digital out1(white/black), that's connected to the trails.

I figured that because the trails work, the leads should also. Do you know what voltages I should be getting?

Also, I checked to see if the E6K is reading rpm with the software online, and it is.

thanks again for your help

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

A couple of things come to mind, your map is the HITman's OEM map, which should work if you have everything right. So, either: A. Your Haltech has a bad IgnOut; B. You have used the wrong wire (that light green wire can be sometimes a sort of "aqua light blue" that can be confusing, so did you make sure you have the right wire? this happened to me recently by accident, i used the wrong wire and i wasnt getting Ign1, took 2 people to notice; C. Your coil pack might be bad or not getting 12V power.

Those are the only options i can think of that might be happening here. Try a new coil pack and see what happens.

H22a/13bt

I think it's most likely option C at this point. I checked the Ign1 and it's both light green, and its got signal.

Today I'll be running the coil to a different 12volt power source. I'm going to try using the same source as the trail packs. I'd imagine that this should be fine, and won't overload anything.

Also I'm going to try using 2 sets of trail packs. I'll just wire the Ign out to the pink wire, and for the ignition toggle signal I'll wire the Aux out in parallel to both pack. Hopefully the drop in signal voltage if any will not effect the firing.

I'll report back on that later.

I'm still keeping my fingers crossed.

RETed

Something just doesn't sound right about this...

What I'm worried about is what is this "black" wire?
Are you talking about the wire with the female "bullet" end on it?
If so, I don't think you should be grounding that wire.
It's supposed to be a diagnostics plug to connect a negative trigger tach onto...

Also, those wire colors sounds like the wiring AFTER the ignitor base?
The Haltech needs to fire into an ignitor to fire the coils.
You cannot fire the bare coil straight from the Haltech ECU.


-Ted

H22a/13bt

I was just grounding the black wire with the bullet end on it. But if it's a diagnostic plug then I'll stop grounding it then.

As for the wires on the coils, I just cut off the factory white plugs and and started connecting the haltech and 12volt source from there. Is this correct or do i need to take appart the ignitor base and start the wiring there or maybe bypass the ignitor base altogether?

Just this afternoon I completely rewired all ignition related systems, double checking every connection along the way. In my previous post I mentioned that I am also going to see if I can get a set of trail packs to work in place of the normal lead packs. I'm trying this out because I figure if it works I'll have a badass ignition setup to start with and also because so far I've only been able to get the trails working right anyway.

Tomorrow I'll hopefully be able to get things all hooked up.

RETed

Okay, sorry for the confusion...
I haven't messed with the stock wiring in a while.
You're right - those colors are the same pre or post ignitior.

Okay, one thing I was thinking about is...
Does the coil pack have a good ground?
The coils ground through it's metal body, so if there is not very good contact with chassis, it will not fire right.
This is a big problem with freshly painted cars...


-Ted

davedge

Here it is:

Leading coil:
Tan-->12v switched
Pink-->Haltech Ign. Out
Black-->Condensor(Ground)

Trailing coil:
Tan-->12v switched
Tan-->12v switched
Yellow-->Tacho(factory)
Grey--> N/C
Pink-->Haltech Dig. out 1
White-->Haltech "bypass"

The leading coil has its own "toggle" in the Ignitor. It will automatically fire each coil 180* of the other... Make sure you have power/ground, and then... if you have access to an Oscilliscope check to make sure the ECU is sending the Ign. output signal to fire the Ign/coils... If not, email me: dave@haltech.com, and I can give you further instruction.

H22a/13bt

SUCCESS!!

Finally she's running like she should.

As of right now I'm using 2 sets of trailing coils to fire both the lead and trailing spark plugs. I think the problem can be attributed to a couple of things. These factors being, bad connections in the wiring because of too many trial and error attempts to get the ignition working right, and also I now believe that the coils also were probably not grounded properly.

Today I actually ran special ground wires to the base of both sets of coils, which i then ran back to known good grounding points on the chassis.

Thank you all very much for all your help and input. I don't think I could have done it with out you.