trickfc

So I've gotten the car to start reasonable well when cold but it cut off when reached about 145degreesF. I used Claudio/Hitman map combinations and had to richen up the vacuum areas/coolant map/primer map to get it to start. the wideband reads ~12to1 the when its warming up, then it cuts off before it reaches operating temp.

So since it will probably not start again till it cools off I thought I'd seek some direction. Should I just keep adjusting coolant map till I get it right or am I missing something else? The timing seems okay, I've zeroed it with light and everything so its gotta be fuel map problem, right?

couple questions, and I've read manual and searched alot
primer map modifies fuel mS at cranking only and none after it starts correct?
if its not starting when hot should I change coolant map first, or post start enrich or primer?
do I need to zip the .6km file to upload?


Thanks in advance for any input, mods are in sig, base fuel pressure is set at 40psi...

Mike

trickfc

well if this works then I've figured out at least one question.

I could have gove a little overboard richening up the map but at least Ive gotten it to start

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

What is your injector flow combination? by looking at your fuel maps i can probably see why you cant get it to run when hot, it looks like its too rich. A cold engine requires more fuel than a warm engine. I would start by lowering the entire maps (specially your zero rpm map cause its very high) and then just play with the coolant corrections.

The rest looks fine.

trickfc

I'm not sure what you mean by injector flow combination. 550 primary 1600 secondary. 40psi base pressure. I think it was injecting close to 10mS when it was cranking.

thanks for advice, will change a few things and give it another shot monday afternoon. football always hurts my weekend productivity

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

Well, if you have 550/1600 combo then yes, most definately its way to rich, you have to lean it out.

Max mS value for 550's at the stagging point should be around 7mS or there abouts, and then when the 1600 kick in it should drop down to about 2.89mS or along those values.

But, if you have a rising rate FPR values should climb a little, then drop as pressure increase.

RETed

Ignore the damn wide-band.
It does very little when tuning the coolant maps.

Yes, just keep adjusting the coolant maps until you can get the car to warm up fully.
ONCE AT OPERATING TEMP, then start to mess with the fuel maps seriously.


-Ted

trickfc

I made some serious progress today,but a few things are leaving me scratching my head...

The good:

I got the car to warm up to operating temp, idle, and start when hot. This was after some map changes, swapping throttle bodies for one that was not stuck slightly open, fixing a small vacuum leak and putting in new leading plugs.

Now the weird stuff:

Car will not pull a vaccuum, ever. Will boost when revved, but will not pull vacuum even on deceleration. Tested haltech 3bar with mityvac and my greddy guage is good too. Is the only thing that could cause that a major vacuum leak or could haltech settings do it too?

I have a simple manual switch and relay for fuel pump that I have used for years with my stock ecu. When I cut it off today, the car raced up to 2500rpms and ran for 3.5 minutes! Is that even possible? My fuel guage read 0psi the whole time! It would die after like 4 seconds with the stock ecu. WTF?!

Also, when running at operating temp, it seemed like adjustments I made to fuel maps did nothing. I would adjust the bar under the carrot at various rpms and A/F ratios and running quality didnt change much at all.

I'll come up with a new gameplan and try again friday...

Thanks for the earlier replies!

Mike

slo

iTrader: (1)

You have the MAP sensor and boost gauge either hooked up to the wrong port, or hooked up in line with a check valve.

There is no point in continuing before you fix this.


Search the forum for the proper port to hook these up to.

trickfc

they are both hooked up from ports on the upper intake manifold, the ones 'after' the throttle body, where there are 6 ports (3 in front, 3 in rear). no check valves. I always thought those were the best spots for vacuum or boost signal.

trickfc

son of a bitch I think you were right, that throttle body spacer thing hooks some of the ports up to a signal in front of the throttle body and some after???

of all the ways I've ever had my stuff hooked up I don't think I ever realized or had that problem...

thanks slo

friday...

slo

iTrader: (1)

EDIT: I was to slow or is that slo

trickfc

I have a simple manual switch and relay for fuel pump that I have used for years with my stock ecu. When I cut it off today, the car raced up to 2500rpms and ran for 3.5 minutes! Is that even possible? My fuel guage read 0psi the whole time! It would die after like 4 seconds with the stock ecu. WTF?!

this is still confusing my though... can the haltech really run my car off of residual fuel in the lines with 0psi for 3 minutes or am I crazy?

RETed

The wiring is wrong to your switch.
Even if the fuel pump is cut off properly by the switch, it will not run more than 5 seconds at the most.

3.5 minutes is way too long.


-Ted

trickfc

Will recheck wiring friday, but I'm almost certain I did not change it at all during haltech install. Just a simple circuit like it used to be.

Fuel guage definately said 0psi the whole time, it reads 40ish when pump is on.

Maybe jegs fuel guage is inaccurate at low pressures and aeromotive regulator can hold some pressure for a few minutes?? very confusing...

trickfc

Victory! Drilled some holes in the LIM and flipped the TB spacer thing around. Now it runs decent. Going to do datalogs and tune out the maps over the next few weeks when I get the time.

It even cut off after 5seconds with the fuel pump switch now, which still confuses me. Might be time to rewire the thing...

Does e6k have flood clear when WOT cranking or anything like that?