Couple installation questions PS2000 on 20B FD

Ottoman · 02-08-11, 02:58 PM

hey guys,

I've had this PS2000 sitting in a box since last july, and I keep procrastinating and putting off the damn thing, but finally I bit the bullet and started going through it...

anyway i'm about 1/3 the way thru, and just want to check a few things as I go.

I'll probably have questions as I go along, but off the top of my head I have a couple atm.

1.) when you ditch the stock ecu, there's 4 connectors under the dash that are left open,what happens to these? theres a blue one a white one, and 2 yellow ones that used to go to the ecu.

i'm guessing some of these are for the gauge cluster and logicon? or are they redundant and ignorable now?

2.) Can I drive the stock Tach using the PS2000 with the corrected output signal?

3.) the injectors all share a common power wire.. how did you share it amongst the 6 injectors? do you just run the wire to the furthest injector and then splice into the wire every few inches as you go towards the back of the motor? or do you merge all 6 wires into one and connect that to the end of the wire?

4.) when using the 20B cas, do I have to make any modifications to it? such as removing a Tooth etc? or is that a thing of the past now?

5.)Is it recommended to always update to the latest firmware for my ecu or does it sometimes introduce new unforseen issues/bugs?

That's it off the top of my head, any and all of your input is much appreiated!

Thanks

C. Ludwig · 02-08-11, 04:05 PM

This is on an FC?

1. Nothing. You don't need to connect anything to those connectors.

2. Yes. Find the yellow/blue wire that comes of the trail coil and connect it to DPO 1 of the PS2k. You need to use DPO 1, any other channel will not work. 4 pulses, 50% duty, 12V pull up.

3. Cut the main injector wire short of the injectors. Usually around the rear iron. Splice in the 6 wires for your injectors there. 18 ga works fine. Run the 6 wires to the individual injectors.

4. No.

5. Yes. Update it. There are no known bugs with the current firmware. The new firmware used with the Platinums has pretty much eliminated all the bugs with the earlier E series ECUs.

Ottoman · 02-08-11, 04:21 PM

thanks for the quick reply bro,

this is on my FD actually (as mentioned in title) I don't know if that will make any difference tho...

C. Ludwig · 02-09-11, 01:41 AM

My bad.

The tach is still a yellow/blue wire, but you will pick it up off one of the yellow ECU connectors. Forget which pin off the top of my head. If you do a search you should be able to find it mentioned. Again, connect that wire to DPO 1.

There are no other connections that need to be made there unless you want to run the AC. You will need to leave the transmission part of the emissions loom (engine loom) intact. The speed sensor and backup lights need to be hooked up to the trans. This prevents you from removing the entire emission loom.

Ottoman · 02-09-11, 01:40 PM

Thanks man, I'll look into that... I'd like to keep my PS/AC and working speedo and reverse lights would be nice :p

btw, do you any easy ways to mount up the LS2 coils?

I was thinking of running 2 long threaded rods through the 6 of them and using nuts to space them out, and some how mount that under the intake manifold...

or somehow cutting the stock bracket up into pairs and mounting it below the shock tower area... I'm not sure tbh..

my fab skills are limited unfortunately..

Ottoman · 02-10-11, 09:51 AM

the 20B tps has 4 wires:

blak/red (ground obviously)
green/red (power most likely)

and 2 brown wires 1 with white stripe 1 with blue stripe

which of the 2 do I use? is one a narrow the other a wide?

thanks

C. Ludwig · 02-10-11, 01:56 PM

Send me an email and I'll work up the connections for you.

The 20B tps is outlined on the site here. I don't have the info in front of me to quote, but if you search you can find the connections. I "think" the brown/white is 5V ref. That's usually standard Mazda. Other than that I don't know it off the top of my head. There is one short range and one full range output. So you will only use 3 of the 4 connections.

A lost of people do mount the coils like you describe. Stainless all-thread works well for the rod to hold them. Stainless won't interfere with the magnetics of the coils. Slip rubber fuel line down over the all-thread to act as spacers/bumpers between the coils. Bend a mounting bracket out of 1/8" sheet aluminum.

t-von · 02-10-11, 08:52 PM

FIY the tach (yellow/blue) wire is on the small yellow connector. Also above that behind the dash is that white connector with a big black wire. Make sure you ground that wire so your cluster works. Also this is the same connector that contains the tranny switch wires off the engine side of your old harness. You will need to strip back that portion of your old harness to get to those wires. You will only need the reverse and speedometer wires. The 1-2 and 3-4 switches wont be needed unless you have something special planned for them. Do you not have a shop wiring manual? If not download it here.

http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rx7manual

Ottoman · 02-11-11, 10:33 AM

Thanks for the help guys,

I finished the CAS, injectors power and grounds

on a side note, can the chassis and signal both groudn to the same place?

I got the ecu working, and connecting fine...

but as mentioned the cluster was going crazy..

and when I key on, my Defi gauges no longer powered up... gauge lights worked tho..

guessing the wires are no longer live without the under dash wires connected...

what's the best way to wire the fuel pump? re use stock wiring under the hood?
or a whole new setup?

C. Ludwig · 02-11-11, 11:19 AM

Signal ground goes directly to the battery. Chassis ground goes to the body.

I rewire the whole pump. Send the wire from the Haltech relay all the way to the positive connection on the pump.

t-von · 02-11-11, 11:17 PM

^ Really? I ran mine over to the drivers side and spliced it into the existing wire along the lower door jam. This bypasses all the factory speed relay stuff. Factory wire seemed thicker than the Haltech wire so I just reused it.

I guess I need to rewire my signal ground. OOOps!

hIGGI · 02-15-11, 07:51 AM

Strangely, i have Tacho connected to DPO3, no pullup and it works... (FC3S stock gauge cluster)

20B TPS i have connected this way :
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...8&id=698296449

Looking at the TPS, standing in front of the car...

From top to bottom
-White (Signal)
-Black/white (Ground)
-unused
-Orange (5V)

Those are colors of Haltech wires (PS2000)

87GTR · 02-17-11, 09:48 PM

good info here. cant wait till this weekend and start installing my ps2k on the cosmo.

Ottoman · 02-20-11, 01:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hIGGI

Strangely, i have Tacho connected to DPO3, no pullup and it works... (FC3S stock gauge cluster)

20B TPS i have connected this way :
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...8&id=698296449

Looking at the TPS, standing in front of the car...

From top to bottom
-White (Signal)
-Black/white (Ground)
-unused
-Orange (5V)

Those are colors of Haltech wires (PS2000)

lookin good man,

what are you using for coils? and where/how are you mounting them?

hIGGI · 02-20-11, 12:58 PM

I am running stock FC coils and they are mounted under LIM, ignitors in place of stock trailing coilpack. Not usuall setup, but it works and it was free