Haltech cold start tuning
10-19-09, 07:34 AM
#1
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cold start tuning
geeee imagine that.. Talksicks back with another noob question
what sort of numbers do you folks use for cold starting?
car fires up fine warm, no problems at all, holds idle beautifully, even cold when i do finally get it to fire i need hold the pedal a lil bit for about 5 seconds an it will hold idle an warm up nicely. But when the car is cold an its cold outside i have to crank it over repeatedly before i can get it to fire up, sometimes with a bit of kickback before it starts, sometimes just a roung cough an off we go.
E6K, S4 engine/turbo, no emissions/BAC, 550/880cc
basically wondering what sort of injector and spark timing anyone can recommend or sort of a "how to make this work" method.
could be grubby plugs, they could use changing
have fuel kill switch, have tried turning fuel off with no result (im familiar with the flooding problems :P ) so i can only anticipate that im not getting enough fuel and or my timing is off
numbers i can see makin a difference
coolant temp fuel correction
air temp fuel correction
priming map
main fuel map in cranking range
timing map in cranking range
i havent played with the priming map or air temp correction or the timing, coolant temp correction works for warm weather but i notice on the basemap its a steep curve so i may have messed up that range going to check it later.
essentially what i want to know is what sort of injector timing and spark timing yall use for cold (sub zero celcius) starts. which maps to adjust an which to leave alone, as i said the car starts and runs great when warm or warm out, i dont want to mess that up tryin to make i start cold.
what sort of numbers do you folks use for cold starting?
car fires up fine warm, no problems at all, holds idle beautifully, even cold when i do finally get it to fire i need hold the pedal a lil bit for about 5 seconds an it will hold idle an warm up nicely. But when the car is cold an its cold outside i have to crank it over repeatedly before i can get it to fire up, sometimes with a bit of kickback before it starts, sometimes just a roung cough an off we go.
E6K, S4 engine/turbo, no emissions/BAC, 550/880cc
basically wondering what sort of injector and spark timing anyone can recommend or sort of a "how to make this work" method.
could be grubby plugs, they could use changing
have fuel kill switch, have tried turning fuel off with no result (im familiar with the flooding problems :P ) so i can only anticipate that im not getting enough fuel and or my timing is off
numbers i can see makin a difference
coolant temp fuel correction
air temp fuel correction
priming map
main fuel map in cranking range
timing map in cranking range
i havent played with the priming map or air temp correction or the timing, coolant temp correction works for warm weather but i notice on the basemap its a steep curve so i may have messed up that range going to check it later.
essentially what i want to know is what sort of injector timing and spark timing yall use for cold (sub zero celcius) starts. which maps to adjust an which to leave alone, as i said the car starts and runs great when warm or warm out, i dont want to mess that up tryin to make i start cold.
10-19-09, 11:55 AM
#2
"E6K, S4 engine/turbo, no emissions/BAC, 550/880cc"
Are you running the BAC or not running it? Your wording confuses me
I have a similar problem, and I do not run a BAC. Only way to make it idle fully cold is to tighten my idle screw on the TB butterfly shafts and as it warms up (instead of holding the pedal), correction goes away. However, I have to keep it running rich under the main fuel map (1000RPM) otherwise it will idle at 1300RPM if it's lean.
Try a basemap from the sticky. I believe there is one in there very close to your setup.
Are you running the BAC or not running it? Your wording confuses me
I have a similar problem, and I do not run a BAC. Only way to make it idle fully cold is to tighten my idle screw on the TB butterfly shafts and as it warms up (instead of holding the pedal), correction goes away. However, I have to keep it running rich under the main fuel map (1000RPM) otherwise it will idle at 1300RPM if it's lean.
Try a basemap from the sticky. I believe there is one in there very close to your setup.
10-19-09, 11:02 PM
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cold starting is just one of those things you have to spend a few hours playing with...
timing: the FSM says cranking is 5btdc, if its really cold you may need to take some out.
fuel: it seems like best starting is to run the priming map rich enough to almost flood, less fuel = less chance of flooding, but it'll crank longer. once you get in the ballpark, its like the engine making 3-4 revolutions instead of 5-6, it may not matter.
if it takes a couple tries cranking, its too lean, so richen the priming map, and try it. um the coolant enrichment map is mostly to adjust it once it is running. again you want it so it runs best, very quick to get it close.
timing: the FSM says cranking is 5btdc, if its really cold you may need to take some out.
fuel: it seems like best starting is to run the priming map rich enough to almost flood, less fuel = less chance of flooding, but it'll crank longer. once you get in the ballpark, its like the engine making 3-4 revolutions instead of 5-6, it may not matter.
if it takes a couple tries cranking, its too lean, so richen the priming map, and try it. um the coolant enrichment map is mostly to adjust it once it is running. again you want it so it runs best, very quick to get it close.
10-20-09, 03:01 PM
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much appreciated. ill have myself a lil playtime with it an see whats what. was kinda hopin there was a common issue people have or some such thing. even more a pain then settin up the coolant map, i only get 2 tries a day at this one, maybe three, before it starts anyway and once started and or warm it fires right up.
10-23-09, 09:18 AM
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just to make sure i have this straight
the fuel priming map controls initial jet of fuel pre start. after that initial squirt the fuel is added as per the main fuel map in combination with whatever temperature corrections happen to be in place?
ignition timing when starting is controlled by ignition cranking map pre start
does this mean that the numbers in these maps supercede all other maps until the car starts. for example is the ignition cranking map if set to 15 going to effectively lock the timing at 15 or will it still see changes due to various corrections?
what effect do the settings in the ignition quick map under options have.. i know read the manual and i have and im about to again but cant hurt to ask
the fuel priming map controls initial jet of fuel pre start. after that initial squirt the fuel is added as per the main fuel map in combination with whatever temperature corrections happen to be in place?
ignition timing when starting is controlled by ignition cranking map pre start
does this mean that the numbers in these maps supercede all other maps until the car starts. for example is the ignition cranking map if set to 15 going to effectively lock the timing at 15 or will it still see changes due to various corrections?
what effect do the settings in the ignition quick map under options have.. i know read the manual and i have and im about to again but cant hurt to ask
10-23-09, 12:15 PM
#7
^ Can I have your map too? I want to compare to mine. I cold start well and it holds @ 750 somewhat bouncy, but quickly rises as the car warms and eventually will idle at 1300 (GAH!!)
I'm going to stop playing with it until I get my BAC in and wired.
I'm going to stop playing with it until I get my BAC in and wired.
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10-23-09, 11:44 PM
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ok so after some muckin about today i discovered
A) that my timing while cranking cold was in the land of 16, from my much searching and reading ive come up with.. This can cause kickback when cold starting, i occasionally get this, can cause hard starting when cold, i definitly have this, fsm wants 5 degrees, i definitly lacked that
so i adjusted it via the cranking ignition map, annnnd fucked everything up by forgetting to turn on the fuel
but the car started right away before runnin out of fuel. not sure if this is due to having tried a few hours earlier or if its fixed but ill know in the morning.
with regards to warm starting its cranking at around 16 degrees, turns twice an fires, no messin with the gas pedal no nothing turn it, it fires, holds a low idle for a sec an rises about 200 rpm before flattening out. i had the idle set to 750 and had no issues but it was a touch rough and dropped a bit when i had the lights an heat on so i upped it to 950 and its nice an silky smooth. i found to set the idle nidely i had to find the map location that it was idling at and then adjusting it as well as the adjacent bars. when it started to hunt i used the bars around my intended idle bar to trap it with a mildly richer or leaner condition so it didnt want to move. im smart enough to know what i did, not really smart enough to know which way i went or how /why it worked :P
example my current idle is at -59.67 kpa roughly 1.882 ms in the 500 rpm range adjacent bars look like this
kpa -67.5 -59.6 -51.7
RPM
500 1.914 1.882 2.010
1000 1.978 1.978 2.872 injector timing
if thats any help ill check tomorrow what the timing is at at idle for ya. took me a couple hours of messin around with the idle just chasin the lil green box around till it was stable, then muckin with the idle screw till it was smooth. reset tps try again till ur happy. do yourself a favour do it with the stereo lights defroster and heater goin if u can see urself havin all those things on at once at any point
or ull be doin it again. this means a mildly higher idle then id like without accessories 950-1000 ish, but nice an smooth in the land of 800 when its loaded out
A) that my timing while cranking cold was in the land of 16, from my much searching and reading ive come up with.. This can cause kickback when cold starting, i occasionally get this, can cause hard starting when cold, i definitly have this, fsm wants 5 degrees, i definitly lacked that
so i adjusted it via the cranking ignition map, annnnd fucked everything up by forgetting to turn on the fuel
but the car started right away before runnin out of fuel. not sure if this is due to having tried a few hours earlier or if its fixed but ill know in the morning.with regards to warm starting its cranking at around 16 degrees, turns twice an fires, no messin with the gas pedal no nothing turn it, it fires, holds a low idle for a sec an rises about 200 rpm before flattening out. i had the idle set to 750 and had no issues but it was a touch rough and dropped a bit when i had the lights an heat on so i upped it to 950 and its nice an silky smooth. i found to set the idle nidely i had to find the map location that it was idling at and then adjusting it as well as the adjacent bars. when it started to hunt i used the bars around my intended idle bar to trap it with a mildly richer or leaner condition so it didnt want to move. im smart enough to know what i did, not really smart enough to know which way i went or how /why it worked :P
example my current idle is at -59.67 kpa roughly 1.882 ms in the 500 rpm range adjacent bars look like this
kpa -67.5 -59.6 -51.7
RPM
500 1.914 1.882 2.010
1000 1.978 1.978 2.872 injector timing
if thats any help ill check tomorrow what the timing is at at idle for ya. took me a couple hours of messin around with the idle just chasin the lil green box around till it was stable, then muckin with the idle screw till it was smooth. reset tps try again till ur happy. do yourself a favour do it with the stereo lights defroster and heater goin if u can see urself havin all those things on at once at any point
or ull be doin it again. this means a mildly higher idle then id like without accessories 950-1000 ish, but nice an smooth in the land of 800 when its loaded out
10-24-09, 04:00 PM
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checked ur vid.. pretty funny yours starts cold like mine starts warm
couldnt see in the video what your timing advance was while cranking before it started and im curious as hell to know what it is.
also id love a chance to dig thru your map and anyone elses that wish to post em up, im rediculously new to all this and will look at any info i can get to compare mine to. i cant help but think that just because the car starts, runs, idles, boosts fairly well doesnt mean ive come close to setting it all up properly. wouldnt be the first time i did something so incredibly backwards and incorrect that it worked for reasons no one understands.
a thought on your idle creep, as you say your wideband keeps movin on up with the rpms. when under coolant or possibly air temp correction ur adding enough fuel that the condition isnt too lean, but when u come off correction or get close to operationg temp the lil bit added isnt quite enough and reveals a lean spot at idle on your main fuel map. as i understand it a lil leaner is going to idle higher then a lil richer. as it increases idle its also going to jump from your 500-1000-1500 bars as well as possibly changing load bars. kept that from happenin on mine by riching up the 1500 bar so that if the idle begins to creep it sorta mini-floods itself back down to 1000. also check your load points VS operating MAP pressure. ive got a load point at 59.x kpa and my car idles typically at 60.x kpa, next load point is 67.x kpa. in order to get a proper idle i had to adjust the two back and forth, just changing the one rarely had a noticeable effect because im pretty sure the box does all the lil math inbetween. id suggest addin a touch of fuel to your idle, should calm it down. also at least on my car i cant get a good idle that lean, usually in the land of 11.5-12.5afr is where mine seems to be happiest.
if u pull up at the lights an your idle takes a dive before recovering an climbin back up id have a look at those vac leaks as well as makin sure there are no extreme changes on your fuel map around idle. go for a burn with the laptop beside ya open to the fuel map, wait for it to dive like you say it is, and hit the home key when its at its lowest, see if anything stands out in that area of the map. i had similar problems . once caused by vac leaks, once caused by having the transition between my idle box an its neighbors too steep, sometimes itd be ok, but sometimes itd just get over that hump on the MAP sensor and throw itself downhill. not sure if that makes any sense to anyone but me but there ya go.
couldnt see in the video what your timing advance was while cranking before it started and im curious as hell to know what it is.
also id love a chance to dig thru your map and anyone elses that wish to post em up, im rediculously new to all this and will look at any info i can get to compare mine to. i cant help but think that just because the car starts, runs, idles, boosts fairly well doesnt mean ive come close to setting it all up properly. wouldnt be the first time i did something so incredibly backwards and incorrect that it worked for reasons no one understands.
a thought on your idle creep, as you say your wideband keeps movin on up with the rpms. when under coolant or possibly air temp correction ur adding enough fuel that the condition isnt too lean, but when u come off correction or get close to operationg temp the lil bit added isnt quite enough and reveals a lean spot at idle on your main fuel map. as i understand it a lil leaner is going to idle higher then a lil richer. as it increases idle its also going to jump from your 500-1000-1500 bars as well as possibly changing load bars. kept that from happenin on mine by riching up the 1500 bar so that if the idle begins to creep it sorta mini-floods itself back down to 1000. also check your load points VS operating MAP pressure. ive got a load point at 59.x kpa and my car idles typically at 60.x kpa, next load point is 67.x kpa. in order to get a proper idle i had to adjust the two back and forth, just changing the one rarely had a noticeable effect because im pretty sure the box does all the lil math inbetween. id suggest addin a touch of fuel to your idle, should calm it down. also at least on my car i cant get a good idle that lean, usually in the land of 11.5-12.5afr is where mine seems to be happiest.
if u pull up at the lights an your idle takes a dive before recovering an climbin back up id have a look at those vac leaks as well as makin sure there are no extreme changes on your fuel map around idle. go for a burn with the laptop beside ya open to the fuel map, wait for it to dive like you say it is, and hit the home key when its at its lowest, see if anything stands out in that area of the map. i had similar problems . once caused by vac leaks, once caused by having the transition between my idle box an its neighbors too steep, sometimes itd be ok, but sometimes itd just get over that hump on the MAP sensor and throw itself downhill. not sure if that makes any sense to anyone but me but there ya go.
10-24-09, 06:07 PM
#11
yah i falls like that because its got the TB mod. there is a dashpot that runs on vacuum and once the idle gets low enough and pulls enough vac, it slightly presses the throttle and gets it to not dip so low. its like that on other cars ive delt with with a full TB mod.
its from stepping on the breaks and the engine having to compensate for it. otherwise it falls off normally just fine.
as far as my tune while in vac, i set the whole range of rpms to be the same. through out the entire power band. my boost map? down low its a lil flaky but the meth/water injection keeps it well in check.
as far as my timing advance? i have NO friggin clue what it is during cranking. however for whatever its worth, i changed my idle split to practically 5* and that smoothed out the idle and caused my car to run a hair bit leaner. maybe burning the fuel better, but i dont know. seems to have fixed the low idle dip.
its from stepping on the breaks and the engine having to compensate for it. otherwise it falls off normally just fine.
as far as my tune while in vac, i set the whole range of rpms to be the same. through out the entire power band. my boost map? down low its a lil flaky but the meth/water injection keeps it well in check.
as far as my timing advance? i have NO friggin clue what it is during cranking. however for whatever its worth, i changed my idle split to practically 5* and that smoothed out the idle and caused my car to run a hair bit leaner. maybe burning the fuel better, but i dont know. seems to have fixed the low idle dip.
10-25-09, 03:18 AM
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yeah ive got the TB stripped down, no emissions no BAC etc as well.
so i logged my start attempt this morning heres what i found maybe someone can help...
injector time... as i understand it the priming squirt as i shall call it should launch as soon as i turn the key? i turned the key three times, each time got 8.xms injector time solid and unchanging, untill the third attempt where i got 8.xms for about 3 seconds.. then a spike to 36ms at which point it coughed. injectors dropped back to 8 ms an then spiked a couple more times coughed and caught.
so when does this initial squirt fire?
despite having set my cranking ignition to 5 degrees im still seeing 7 degrees while cranking, until i got one hiccup of a start before it ramped up to 16, then the big squirt of fuel cough cough start. i still dont trust my understanding of timing and have done little to change it from the basemap. what i cant figure out is that 16 is higher then anything on my main ignition map in that area, my cranking is set to 5 degreees, wheres it getting all the advance from. this is why i was asking about the "ignition quick map" it has ignition advance at idle set at 15*, is this whats ****** me, i couldnt seem to find that menu listed in the manual but i may have missed it ill look again.
split timing is at like 20-33 degrees, which has always seemed high but in my readings i havent been able to make enough sense of split effect to risk changing what has so far worked an not blown up.
my home cnt caught my attention.. goes up to 7 an restarts, not sure what normal is just seemed an odd number.
so the conclusion im comin to is the car doesnt know its cranking? im tryin to find a way to make my laptop talk to the internet so i can upload my map an datalog for scrutiny but the lack of a initial priming squirt seems to indicate somethings fucky
so i logged my start attempt this morning heres what i found maybe someone can help...
injector time... as i understand it the priming squirt as i shall call it should launch as soon as i turn the key? i turned the key three times, each time got 8.xms injector time solid and unchanging, untill the third attempt where i got 8.xms for about 3 seconds.. then a spike to 36ms at which point it coughed. injectors dropped back to 8 ms an then spiked a couple more times coughed and caught.
so when does this initial squirt fire?
despite having set my cranking ignition to 5 degrees im still seeing 7 degrees while cranking, until i got one hiccup of a start before it ramped up to 16, then the big squirt of fuel cough cough start. i still dont trust my understanding of timing and have done little to change it from the basemap. what i cant figure out is that 16 is higher then anything on my main ignition map in that area, my cranking is set to 5 degreees, wheres it getting all the advance from. this is why i was asking about the "ignition quick map" it has ignition advance at idle set at 15*, is this whats ****** me, i couldnt seem to find that menu listed in the manual but i may have missed it ill look again.
split timing is at like 20-33 degrees, which has always seemed high but in my readings i havent been able to make enough sense of split effect to risk changing what has so far worked an not blown up.
my home cnt caught my attention.. goes up to 7 an restarts, not sure what normal is just seemed an odd number.
so the conclusion im comin to is the car doesnt know its cranking? im tryin to find a way to make my laptop talk to the internet so i can upload my map an datalog for scrutiny but the lack of a initial priming squirt seems to indicate somethings fucky
10-25-09, 11:15 AM
#13
i dont know the exact dynamics of he cranking map, as its only in place while oyu are simply cranking. the moment it fires up, it goes to a different map. i dont know.
ANYWAYS.
first thing is, i have my ign angle on my cranking map at 15 all through out the board. no matter what temp. seems to start that way weather its 120 outside or 10 degree outside.
then, i have split timing to ....
in trail map one i have it at 5 degrees till about -3 psi.
in tral map two, i have it set at ZERO till -3 psi
from 0 rpms my ignition map is set to ZERO all across the board.
i have it set to zero all across the board for 500 rpms as well.
change these things and then get back to me.
ANYWAYS.
first thing is, i have my ign angle on my cranking map at 15 all through out the board. no matter what temp. seems to start that way weather its 120 outside or 10 degree outside.
then, i have split timing to ....
in trail map one i have it at 5 degrees till about -3 psi.
in tral map two, i have it set at ZERO till -3 psi
from 0 rpms my ignition map is set to ZERO all across the board.
i have it set to zero all across the board for 500 rpms as well.
change these things and then get back to me.
10-26-09, 10:04 AM
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before i get into making a lot of changes heres my latest discovery
after logging my start yesterday i noticed that there is definitly NO priming event taking place according to the data log, car still takes 4 tries with the key before starting, and sees 8.2 ms (550cc) while cranking. no giant squirt as my priming map is set to deliver
sometimes it cranked at my set cranking angle of 7 degrees, sometimes it cranked at 16, it has started on both.
does the ecu not recognize the car isnt started yet for some reason? im gonna go give it another burn. i noticed the tps was reading .780 an then dropped to .000 right when it started according to the data log so could that be the cause?
either way my current problem i suppose is why no priming squirt.
fwiw MAP at cranking -17.x KPA, at idle -59.x KPA almost perfectly solid at warm idle. from my readings this is inside the norm of things but i could be wrong.
also juuuust now noticed as i gawked the datalog that my RPM cranking is 125-188 RPM.. and the second it hits 250rpm it fires up, is cranking speed adjustable? id say yeah get a stronger battery except its hittin 250 on its 4th turn of the key, id imagine if it was a battery issue if it wasnt gonna make it the first time it certainly isnt gonna make it the 4th
after logging my start yesterday i noticed that there is definitly NO priming event taking place according to the data log, car still takes 4 tries with the key before starting, and sees 8.2 ms (550cc) while cranking. no giant squirt as my priming map is set to deliver
sometimes it cranked at my set cranking angle of 7 degrees, sometimes it cranked at 16, it has started on both.
does the ecu not recognize the car isnt started yet for some reason? im gonna go give it another burn. i noticed the tps was reading .780 an then dropped to .000 right when it started according to the data log so could that be the cause?
either way my current problem i suppose is why no priming squirt.
fwiw MAP at cranking -17.x KPA, at idle -59.x KPA almost perfectly solid at warm idle. from my readings this is inside the norm of things but i could be wrong.
also juuuust now noticed as i gawked the datalog that my RPM cranking is 125-188 RPM.. and the second it hits 250rpm it fires up, is cranking speed adjustable? id say yeah get a stronger battery except its hittin 250 on its 4th turn of the key, id imagine if it was a battery issue if it wasnt gonna make it the first time it certainly isnt gonna make it the 4th
10-29-09, 01:05 PM
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as far as gettin a new starter im not sure itll help an it wont be easy. this is the 6th starter ive had on this car, kept havin trouble one that enguaged the flywheel properly, i could fill a page with the story.
For now tho im lookin at the obvious faults. mainly the fact that there is definitly no priming pulse of the injectors ocurring when i try to start up. im gonna see if i cant manipulate the main fuel map to sort of compensate and see what happens. In the meantime i guess the current question is
Why am i not seeing a priming pulse from the injectors when i datalog startup attempts? any thoughts comments or flat out flaming would be appreciated
For now tho im lookin at the obvious faults. mainly the fact that there is definitly no priming pulse of the injectors ocurring when i try to start up. im gonna see if i cant manipulate the main fuel map to sort of compensate and see what happens. In the meantime i guess the current question is
Why am i not seeing a priming pulse from the injectors when i datalog startup attempts? any thoughts comments or flat out flaming would be appreciated
10-29-09, 01:51 PM
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looks like im gettin a new starter, this one just stopped completely an the ole hammer whackin isnt working. ****** car goes thru starters like it goes thru oil an fuel
11-01-09, 07:44 PM
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yeah i just picked up a used one as the chances of getting the right one if i ordered new are pretty slim. seems to have helped the starting, havent had a chance to log to see exactly whats changed but at this point im guessing that i wasnt gettin a priming event because it wasnt seeing enough RPM while cranking.
11-03-09, 11:30 AM
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cold starting is just one of those things you have to spend a few hours playing with...
timing: the FSM says cranking is 5btdc, if its really cold you may need to take some out.
fuel: it seems like best starting is to run the priming map rich enough to almost flood, less fuel = less chance of flooding, but it'll crank longer. once you get in the ballpark, its like the engine making 3-4 revolutions instead of 5-6, it may not matter.
if it takes a couple tries cranking, its too lean, so richen the priming map, and try it. um the coolant enrichment map is mostly to adjust it once it is running. again you want it so it runs best, very quick to get it close.
timing: the FSM says cranking is 5btdc, if its really cold you may need to take some out.
fuel: it seems like best starting is to run the priming map rich enough to almost flood, less fuel = less chance of flooding, but it'll crank longer. once you get in the ballpark, its like the engine making 3-4 revolutions instead of 5-6, it may not matter.
if it takes a couple tries cranking, its too lean, so richen the priming map, and try it. um the coolant enrichment map is mostly to adjust it once it is running. again you want it so it runs best, very quick to get it close.
11-03-09, 07:01 PM
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j9fd3s i did indeed try it, if u scroll up a couple posts i reported that i am not seeing a priming event on my datalog, 8.x ms across the board, no 32ms blast at the start (the only number ive seen datalogged as a priming spike, however it didnt actually occur until the fourth turn of the key).
which is what led to thinkin the starter was the problem, as it was only crankin at 188rpm, and the one priming pulse i caught on log occurred as soon as the rpm hit 250. i thought perhaps the ecu needed to see 250rpm (read that somewhere but dont remember what it pertained to). but the starter is crankin the **** out of it now an im still not seeing a change.
i also changed my timing as you advised but it made no difference as far as i can tell.
i took the plugs out and gave them a good cleaning, i know its no substitute for new but poverty is a bitch. Ill be poppin new ones in soonest possible to see if that helps, but id guess likely not givin the lack of change when i cleaned em.
when i turn the car over it cranks uselessly, throttle pedal makes no change at all. takes three tries, then itll cough, then on the fourth it almost always catches and off i go. i dont need to hold the pedal down for any excessive length of time, it warms up an idles very smoothly and better then any previous 7 ive owned. it certainly seems like the priming map should correct it but im not getting any indication that it is priming.
thats all i can think of off hand but thats where im at
so the current question in the air is Why am i not seeing a priming injection pulse? What could possibly cause such? im gonna take a boot to haltechs forum an see what i can find but i tend to get better and more pertinant information here.
which is what led to thinkin the starter was the problem, as it was only crankin at 188rpm, and the one priming pulse i caught on log occurred as soon as the rpm hit 250. i thought perhaps the ecu needed to see 250rpm (read that somewhere but dont remember what it pertained to). but the starter is crankin the **** out of it now an im still not seeing a change.
i also changed my timing as you advised but it made no difference as far as i can tell.
i took the plugs out and gave them a good cleaning, i know its no substitute for new but poverty is a bitch. Ill be poppin new ones in soonest possible to see if that helps, but id guess likely not givin the lack of change when i cleaned em.
when i turn the car over it cranks uselessly, throttle pedal makes no change at all. takes three tries, then itll cough, then on the fourth it almost always catches and off i go. i dont need to hold the pedal down for any excessive length of time, it warms up an idles very smoothly and better then any previous 7 ive owned. it certainly seems like the priming map should correct it but im not getting any indication that it is priming.
thats all i can think of off hand but thats where im at
so the current question in the air is Why am i not seeing a priming injection pulse? What could possibly cause such? im gonna take a boot to haltechs forum an see what i can find but i tend to get better and more pertinant information here.
11-06-09, 12:20 PM
#24
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i just looked at the manual, and they say two things
1. the priming pulse is delivered at the START of cranking. a stock ecu will usually physically get a "start" wire.
2. it is also looking at the 0rpm map... p47 in the manual
it would seem like getting a datalog of the priming pulse would be pretty easy. plug a spare CAS in, so you can turn it by hand, unplug fuel pump. turn key on engine off, start datalog, turn cas..
if the priming pulse is delivered at the START of cranking, that means RPM must be 0. i have a seen a couple of cars show rpm readings with the key on, engine off
i also wonder if the priming would show up in a datalog?
1. the priming pulse is delivered at the START of cranking. a stock ecu will usually physically get a "start" wire.
2. it is also looking at the 0rpm map... p47 in the manual
it would seem like getting a datalog of the priming pulse would be pretty easy. plug a spare CAS in, so you can turn it by hand, unplug fuel pump. turn key on engine off, start datalog, turn cas..
if the priming pulse is delivered at the START of cranking, that means RPM must be 0. i have a seen a couple of cars show rpm readings with the key on, engine off
i also wonder if the priming would show up in a datalog?
11-06-09, 07:06 PM
#25
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yup the priming pulse will show in the datalog, at least i have caught it on a previous occassion a week or so ago, but not consistantly, an not since.
i noticed the trigger count looks kinda funky right at initial startup, any thoughts on that? i dont have a spare CAS to plug in, and the one that is in i hardwired in an effort to reduce noise so its a bit of a pain to change it. might play with the filters an see what i get.
rpm prestart is 0
soon as i convince this POS laptop to talk to my PC ill post the logs and map
i noticed the trigger count looks kinda funky right at initial startup, any thoughts on that? i dont have a spare CAS to plug in, and the one that is in i hardwired in an effort to reduce noise so its a bit of a pain to change it. might play with the filters an see what i get.
rpm prestart is 0
soon as i convince this POS laptop to talk to my PC ill post the logs and map
