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Haltech car falls flat on its ass when I hit boost, otherwise its fine.

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Old 10-16-04, 12:42 AM
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car falls flat on its *** when I hit boost, otherwise its fine.

Just got the car on the road last week, and I have been taking it easy on the new setup. + I had a wiring problem with the secondarys but thats fixed now.


anyways, the car WILL NOT boost, it just will not happen. If I run it up in RPM and keep it near 0 Hg/in I can hear the turbo spin up, and the BOV goes off on throttle close.

As soon as I make about 2 psi of boost, the car just seams to hit a wall. No power, no boost and the exhaust sounds weird, like the car is hitting a rev limiter.

Im going to run a datalog tommorow and try and get some answers, and Im going to a Rx7 meet and hopefully somebody there can help me.

I am totally lost at the moment though.


I know its not the secondary wire that I fixed, because before I fixed it, I hit boost by accident and it felt totally different.

anyways, if you have any ideas...
Old 10-16-04, 12:57 AM
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just dont care.

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where do you have your staging point? mine is around 2 psi... i was thinking that maybe you have your injection tuned wayyyyy too rich right after the switchover, you tried messing with the fuel? do you have a wideband?

also, what kind of secondaries are you running?
Old 10-16-04, 01:00 AM
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Wideband???
EGT???


-Ted
Old 10-16-04, 01:07 AM
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just dont care.

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yeah we need a little more info here man
Old 10-16-04, 11:51 AM
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have you tried richening up the map for the first couple bars past the staging line?
Old 10-16-04, 12:08 PM
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8/1 Building/Drive Ratio

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550 primarys, 1680 secondarys

No wideband or EGT yet

Im running a hitman map for 550 and 1600s that has the staging bar at 0 psi.

im going to try messing with the first bar after the staging line.
Old 10-16-04, 10:11 PM
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Dude, trying to adjust (fuel) maps without an EGT or wide-band is like shooting arrows in the dark.
I wouldn't even try to give you recommendations either way.
Since you're getting into the boost zones, there's a chance you could hurt your engine going the wrong direction.

Hell, get a narrow-band AFR gauge on the damn car will help in your case.


-Ted
Old 10-16-04, 11:51 PM
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I have only touched boost, Im not trying to really haul some *** right now.

Anyways, im just going to drive the car without boosting untill I get it tuned in the spring. I might get a chance to use my university's dyno, and they have extensive exhaust analizing equipement.
Old 10-17-04, 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by RETed
Wideband???
EGT???


-Ted
How about fuel pressure, had the same problem when the secondaries kicked in dropped the pressure to low and wouldnt pull worth ****. Like Reted said you cant diagnos what you dont know. I made a 6psi base FP increase and fixed ton of my problems.
Old 10-17-04, 01:25 AM
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I have a hood mounted fuel pressure guage and it holds fine
Old 10-17-04, 07:44 AM
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Just a thought, what pressures are you runnning anyway?
Old 10-17-04, 10:44 AM
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i set mine to 50 psi with the engine off.
aeromotive regulator, goes to about 43 when the engine is idling.
Old 10-17-04, 07:29 PM
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43 sounds about right, my problem was the 1600s were killing the pressure when they engaged is why i suggest he check it.
Old 10-18-04, 10:18 PM
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well, I was looking at my maps on my laptop.

on the changeover it goes from around 7 millisecond durration on just the primaries to a 3.50

this is a instant %100 increase in fuel with the 1680 secondarys

7 at 550cc to 3.5 at 2230cc, this seams like a huge jump to me
Old 10-19-04, 10:06 AM
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This is were the wideband would show alot in what the afr is doing during this transition. I agree it does sound like alot for were you have them coming on at.
Old 10-19-04, 08:57 PM
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Try moving the staging bar up to around 5 psi and see if it starts to pull up to 5 pounds. If it hits 5 and falls on it's face, you probably have way too much fuel at the crossover. YOu really do need a lambda meter or some type of metering device.

P.S. Make sure the correction maps are zeroed out from the hit man. I used his base maps and still grenaded a motor eventhough it was tuned perfect on the dyno. Most notably are the air temp maps!!!!!
Old 10-20-04, 12:36 AM
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pay the money ..get it tuned. Or be in here for 12000 messages and still know nothing
Mels auto repair are very good and come highly reccomended from Haltech USA Trevor.
Say, that looks like their dune buggy..... looks good jumping those sandhills.
Old 10-20-04, 12:36 AM
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pay the money ..get it tuned. Or be in here for 12000 messages and still know nothing
Mels auto repair are very good and come highly reccomended from Haltech USA Trevor.
Say, that looks like their dune buggy..... looks good jumping those sandhills.

i guess that would be a very fast lime y vehicle.
Old 10-20-04, 02:50 AM
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kiddies work it out - 550 cc injectors, 7ms.
turn on the secondaries you have 2410cc
2410/550 = 4.3 so 7ms/4.3 = 1.6ms - so after the staging point go to 1.6ms....now that wasnt too hard was it?

Give more to be safe ha !
Old 10-20-04, 04:01 AM
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Originally Posted by p51020b
pay the money ..get it tuned. Or be in here for 12000 messages and still know nothing
Mels auto repair are very good and come highly reccomended from Haltech USA Trevor.
Say, that looks like their dune buggy..... looks good jumping those sandhills.

i guess that would be a very fast lime y vehicle.
Wow, you're just so helpful sometimes!
I guess 10 posts is the magic number, huh?
Yeah, I guess we'll all just follow Mr. average Joe off the streets comments on tuning high performance rotaries.
Add that this bitch can't understand English very well.
Wow, maybe you might want to try some Chinese Haltech Tuning forum?
They might understand you there...


-Ted
Old 10-20-04, 07:17 AM
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If it doesn't end up being a too rich scenario, I've seen this caused by a failing FPR and or injector plugs on wrong injectors.
Old 10-20-04, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by p51020b
pay the money ..get it tuned. Or be in here for 12000 messages and still know nothing
Mels auto repair are very good and come highly reccomended from Haltech USA Trevor.
Say, that looks like their dune buggy..... looks good jumping those sandhills.
Yes CHris at Mels's auto repair does the major tuning and dynoing on my car. It helps that he's my best friend! Him and I have been messing around with my motor for years now and have it down pretty good. I don't get too involved with mapping my car anymore, though I have done quite a bit in the past.
Old 10-20-04, 08:37 PM
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whatever ReTed, tuning high performance motors.... whatever.....
im sure these other guys have big motors, that green buggy has a big motor for sure,
it looks great, however, i know you have a honda civic with neons......
yeah mate... big HP.
Old 10-20-04, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by p51020b
whatever ReTed, tuning high performance motors.... whatever.....
im sure these other guys have big motors, that green buggy has a big motor for sure,
it looks great, however, i know you have a honda civic with neons......
yeah mate... big HP.
Why are you wasting our time?
You come in here claiming to have knowledge more than most of us, and then you go about blasting people in here?

Who are you?
Why are you hiding behind some screen name?
There's a stigma behind people who don't want to reveal themselves yet claim they are some expert...

Wow, if you know what I drive, you must be super smart!
You must have the gift that you can see my ride through the computer.
You scare me.


-Ted
Old 10-25-04, 01:02 AM
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8/1 Building/Drive Ratio

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Originally Posted by Mr. LV
Try moving the staging bar up to around 5 psi and see if it starts to pull up to 5 pounds. If it hits 5 and falls on it's face, you probably have way too much fuel at the crossover. YOu really do need a lambda meter or some type of metering device.

P.S. Make sure the correction maps are zeroed out from the hit man. I used his base maps and still grenaded a motor eventhough it was tuned perfect on the dyno. Most notably are the air temp maps!!!!!

what do you mean about zeroing the correction maps


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