Overheating at start
11-23-14, 05:29 AM
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Overheating at start
Note: Just bought this 1987 NA GXL in October 25.
Ran fine until November 14th, car started overheating after minutes of turning on the car.
Sad to say that I have not pressure tested the cooling system yet (no equipment). Anyways...
Lifted the 7-Up, found the source of the coolant mes to be from the water pump down. So I replaced the water pump and with a new gasket (picture below), thermostat, and radiator hoses. I also hosed out the radiators of all the gunk that was stuck in it.
I broke the radiator switch connector (What is that? Water Temp Switch? Coolant Temp Switch?) in two, now I don't know how to put it back in. I read it just functions as the 3000RPM startup. Haven't figured out yet how it goes back in...anybody know about these? I pointed it out in the picture as best as I could.
I'm about done putting the car back together, any other advice on things I should check? I don't want my engine to blow up but I'll report back in once I test start it soon.
Ran fine until November 14th, car started overheating after minutes of turning on the car.
Sad to say that I have not pressure tested the cooling system yet (no equipment). Anyways...
Lifted the 7-Up, found the source of the coolant mes to be from the water pump down. So I replaced the water pump and with a new gasket (picture below), thermostat, and radiator hoses. I also hosed out the radiators of all the gunk that was stuck in it.
I broke the radiator switch connector (What is that? Water Temp Switch? Coolant Temp Switch?) in two, now I don't know how to put it back in. I read it just functions as the 3000RPM startup. Haven't figured out yet how it goes back in...anybody know about these? I pointed it out in the picture as best as I could.
I'm about done putting the car back together, any other advice on things I should check? I don't want my engine to blow up but I'll report back in once I test start it soon.
Last edited by chiemychanga; 11-23-14 at 05:34 AM.
11-23-14, 05:47 AM
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https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxm...ew?usp=sharing (Manual for Radiator Switch Connector)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxm...ew?usp=sharing (Before - Old water Pump)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxm...ew?usp=sharing (after - New water pump + clean)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxm...ew?usp=sharing (Before - Old water Pump)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxm...ew?usp=sharing (after - New water pump + clean)
11-23-14, 07:25 AM
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The sensor on top of the rad is to tell you the level of coolant in the system,so if you broke that and can't get it replaced(which you really should since you have no way of telling IF the car has coolant in it) then ground the single wire that would come OFF the harness to the body of the car.
IF you do not do this your "alarm" will go off and it will be a pain in the *** listening to it..!!
The sensor opens a circuit when the coolant is low,so doing this it will trick the system into thinking everything is OK.(BUT you will know that it is not since your Freakin sensor is busted..haha!..SO check the coolant..often.for now.)
You haven't mentioned whether the car Still "overheats".
IF you have done this and it gushes as soon as you start it up then you got a Problem.(blown coolant seal and that is a REBUILD.)
If you haven't filled it yet then read on.
You need to fill the system up and bleed as much air out of it as you can.Fill the rad,then fill at the coolant neck where the water pump housing is.BURP the lower hose(squeeze it a couple times)
Get the car up to temp where the coolant starts to flow slowly at the top filler.
NOW you can do 2 things.
Run it and shut it down,check coolant..or Hope for the best and cap it.
I cap it,shut it down..let it cool off,then come back later and check it..then start again to see how the coolant level is.Top up if necessary.
I like to see Full coolant when Cold.Cap system,fill overflow jug to Level mark on jug.
Anyways...If things are normal the car will keep coolant in it..
If not then Sorry about your luck.I tried and so did you!
IF you do not do this your "alarm" will go off and it will be a pain in the *** listening to it..!!
The sensor opens a circuit when the coolant is low,so doing this it will trick the system into thinking everything is OK.(BUT you will know that it is not since your Freakin sensor is busted..haha!..SO check the coolant..often.for now.)
You haven't mentioned whether the car Still "overheats".
IF you have done this and it gushes as soon as you start it up then you got a Problem.(blown coolant seal and that is a REBUILD.)
If you haven't filled it yet then read on.
You need to fill the system up and bleed as much air out of it as you can.Fill the rad,then fill at the coolant neck where the water pump housing is.BURP the lower hose(squeeze it a couple times)
Get the car up to temp where the coolant starts to flow slowly at the top filler.
NOW you can do 2 things.
Run it and shut it down,check coolant..or Hope for the best and cap it.
I cap it,shut it down..let it cool off,then come back later and check it..then start again to see how the coolant level is.Top up if necessary.
I like to see Full coolant when Cold.Cap system,fill overflow jug to Level mark on jug.
Anyways...If things are normal the car will keep coolant in it..
If not then Sorry about your luck.I tried and so did you!
Last edited by misterstyx69; 11-23-14 at 07:27 AM.
11-23-14, 05:02 PM
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Oh yeah the coolant sensor level is not broken. It's the radiator switch connector located on the lower left corner of the radiator driverside. I put a link to the diagram above.
And the car did overheat...like the gauge went way up there. Hope I dont have to rebuild it... no college student got that kind of money!
How much does it cost for a rebuild anyways? Most cost efficent...
And the car did overheat...like the gauge went way up there. Hope I dont have to rebuild it... no college student got that kind of money!
How much does it cost for a rebuild anyways? Most cost efficent...
11-23-14, 11:19 PM
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Sorry to hear,but you will note that that Metal object just doesn't care if you are a starving college student or a guy that makes minimum wage.
The only way it will come to life is if you decide to toss your finances at it.If not it becomes a Tool box in another life or nice lawn ornament.
Rebuild..depends on what damage is done internally and what is reusable and what seals you need to put it back together.
I go by the words of Steve Austin: No two rebuilds are never the same price...(he was the 6 million dollar man get it???)
The Temp gauge: was that even before the engine started or after the car was running?
also that rad switch,yes, is for the ecu.
I think there may be a thread to address that.something about a resistor you can put across the leads to keep the ecu happy.
The only way it will come to life is if you decide to toss your finances at it.If not it becomes a Tool box in another life or nice lawn ornament.
Rebuild..depends on what damage is done internally and what is reusable and what seals you need to put it back together.
I go by the words of Steve Austin: No two rebuilds are never the same price...(he was the 6 million dollar man get it???)
The Temp gauge: was that even before the engine started or after the car was running?
also that rad switch,yes, is for the ecu.
I think there may be a thread to address that.something about a resistor you can put across the leads to keep the ecu happy.
12-01-14, 08:07 PM
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So here is the radiator switch control that I was talking about that broke off. Hope this doesnt have anything to do with how it doesnt start up. And how the heck do you replace this?
12-01-14, 11:14 PM
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That sensor is placed in a Hollow part of the rad.It does not see Coolant.
Those wires are single Butt Connections that go onto the "prongs" of that sensor,so take a pair of pliers and hold the connector and another pair of pliers to get the piece of **** sensor part off!
The sensor itself on the rad?.Unscrew it like a normal nut/bolt/sensor..whatever.(remember it won't leak!).Replace the sensor and reconnect the 2 wires.
Done!
Those wires are single Butt Connections that go onto the "prongs" of that sensor,so take a pair of pliers and hold the connector and another pair of pliers to get the piece of **** sensor part off!
The sensor itself on the rad?.Unscrew it like a normal nut/bolt/sensor..whatever.(remember it won't leak!).Replace the sensor and reconnect the 2 wires.
Done!
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12-02-14, 02:46 PM
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After replacing the radiator hoses, water pump, and a coolant flush, the car no longer overheats! Thank you so much for the help guys, this was literally my first time ever fixing a car. I don't know what else I would have done without this forum besides getting overcharged at an auto shop
.
.
12-03-14, 12:53 AM
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After replacing the radiator hoses, water pump, and a coolant flush, the car no longer overheats! Thank you so much for the help guys, this was literally my first time ever fixing a car. I don't know what else I would have done without this forum besides getting overcharged at an auto shop.
.We aren't charging anything????
You must have missed the "one reply Equals One beer" Rule when you signed up!
(it's in fine print..lol!)
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