Tem120

iTrader: (5)

Well this is a strange issue . it started a month ago or so .

I have an FD , with single turbo

My oil pan has always leaked a bit . But now its to the point of using up a quart of oil every 3 days .

I was running a vented oil line from the filler neck to a catch can and vented to atmosphere and very little oil really came out of it .

Thinking it may be built up crank case pressure I redid the whole oil vent system . to replicate the stock system , SHORT of not having a line go into the turbo one of the lines is vented to atmostphere ( the one with the catch can )

everything is stock ish . with a new pcv from the intake manifold to the filler neck .

BUT when ever I drive the car or go into boost the mess of oil under the car is pretty bad and still using up alot of oil .

I have cleaned under the car just about every weekend looked for more oil leaks and have found none short of the oil pan from the motor mounts .

if the seal on the oilpan is bad enough could it cause the massive oil loss , and huge puddles of oil under the car ?

or is it something more ?



should I invent some way to route the air vented aoil line to the turbo so it has vacume constantly ? as if it was stock ?

Of should I take it in to get the oil pan resealed ?

blue87

iTrader: (2)

Double check orientation of pcv from neck to intake should allow air to flown into intake but not blow out.

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

This. Or you have a major pan gasket leak.

The oil pan will only hold as much pressure as the dipstick will hold.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Only time I had anything remotely close to that much oil loss was with cracked side housings around the dowel area by the oil filter.

I tried cleaning and Hondabond over the crack, but the pressure was too great when running and it just blistered and popped.

Finally I made a "sanitary napkin" holder out of wire and duct tape that bolted to the oil pan bolts and ran all the way up to the oil filter. This caught enough oil I was able to change pads between races.

JB weld probably would have "fixed" the leak as well, but I wanted something I could take off the rotor housing more easily when I rebuilt the motor with a new rear side housing.

Eventually, the crack spread so much I had to rebuild the engine, but I got I think 4 more events and street driving out of it.

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

i've never had my dipstick blow out like I've heard others have

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

Then you do not have over- pressurization of the oil pan.

Sh00bs

iTrader: (8)

i had this issue in an old school na 4port 13b. when i opened it up, the front stat was cracked actually and all front rotor compression was being lost through that and going down into the oil pan, so it was pretty pressurized lol
just food for thought

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

just an update , oil pan was re sealed and no more issues . no dip stick issues nothing everything seems just fine now .

peejay

My TII engine had a cracked center right over the oil pan rail behind the exposed tension bolt. I gooped the area over with silicone but it also generally leaked as a function of how hard I drove it. Fortunately it was in such a spot that engine torque closed the gap instead of opening it. (I have no idea how it cracked, maybe the car it was from was in a bad collision)

So I am going to think that JB Weld wouldn't have cut it. Iron is a rather flexible material, it moves and shifts around a lot. Buick engines are a shining example of this, the motor mounts attach down by the oil pan rail and the oil pans on high power engines never stay sealed for very long unless you do away with those mounting points.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

MY TII motors always crack that part of the intermediate housing.

They crack the passenger side motor mount outer holes (FC RX-7) and bend the area of the intermediate housing up that mounts to the passenger motor mount.

On my last motor I took off my torque brace hoping that was causing it to pitch over onto the motor mount area and without it it would be easier on the motor mount.