Steven_McKinley

Hey guys its been awhile since i have posted on here but i have a N/A series 5 1989 convertible, its all stock and im having some issues with it that are keeping me from having fun in the car. now ive read the faqs about this issue when it fuel cuts while turning. i have since changed the fuel filter and have verified my fuel pump sock hasn't fallen off or that it is not dirty or clogged up. when i turn super hard on a sprited drive or even try to throw some doughnuts it completely falls on its face. sometimes it doesnt stall just cuts fuel. this issue has been killing me for awhile now and i need some help. any advice is appreciated thanks

stickmantijuana

iTrader: (1)

does the same thing happen on full tank?

Steven_McKinley

yea it happens with a full tank and its looks like its been replace because the wires have been spliced and it looks like an aftermarket pump

lduley

iTrader: (1)

That could be your problem right there, find out what kind of pump it is and make sure its right for the car, you never know what people will make work

Steven_McKinley

yeah so i got the fuel cut issue while turning figured out. now for issue number two

Steven_McKinley

when driving under light or heavy engine load the tach doesnt work, but when idling the tach works fine, also every now and then my tach will start to go all wonky and at the same time the needle on the tach is jumping around my car starts to buck and hesitate sometimes it will even stall all together. any thoughts?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The trailing coil provides the signal for the tach. To check if the problem is because of the coil you could do a simple wire jumper and force the tach to run off of the lead coil instead. To do this look at each coil and there will be a short length bullet wire connected to nothing at each coil. Jumper these two wires and the tach will run off of the lead coil. Also, the coils won't work if the coil is not grounded and the grounding comes from the coil bracket being bolted to the fender. Thus the grounding point needs to be clean and tight.

Steven_McKinley

two of the bolts on the leading coil mount are missing could that be causing my hesitation/buck? also i heard if the voltage regulator in the alternator is going bad or not supplying the coil with the proper amount of voltage could cause this issue

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

The leading coil needs to be properly grounded to the chassis in order to provide spark.
If the coil is floppin' around loosely then you get a car that runs.. ..well...like S***..

Steven_McKinley

right right see ive never messed with the coils so these have been missing since ive bought the car and this is a new issue. the coil isnt flopping around just the bolts at the bottom of the coil are missing. the top two are tight. either way imma get two new bolts

satch

iTrader: (1)

Worry about the contact points between the bracket and fender are clean. If that means sanding then it means sanding.

Steven_McKinley

alright cool ive heard two things in my quest for knowledge tonight one is that if the tach isnt working that means the coil is bad and should replace it and also heard many things could cause this issue. the ground behind the trailing coil is cleaned and the one at the bottom of the shock tower is clean. i heard if the voltage regulator is bad in the alt could cause this issue too. where should i start? with a alternator test?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The large Black wire at the alternator is the output wire and it should read 14 volts w/the car running.