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Old 06-18-03, 01:46 AM   #1
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DAMN CLUTCH (i think)

ok heres the problem...i start my FC. it idles in neutral. like it should...i put it in first gear...let out the clutch AND the gas. it still idles without dying on me. i can shift gears and it idles in all gears. now..when i give it gas in first gear it doesnt go anywhere. give it gas in 2nd. goesnt go n e where...its like that through all the gears
now...before this happened it would SLOWY take off in first gear until i got around 5k-6k rpms...then it took off like it should (not racing). thats how it was in all the gears...so is this just a clutch? pressure plate? throwout bearing? cause the engien is running (giving it gas) and the tranny is fine (goes into gear) so it has to be the connection. like the engine isnt turning the tranny....thanx
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Old 06-18-03, 01:45 PM   #2
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The friction material on the clutch is gone. Needs to be replaced.
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Old 06-18-03, 07:43 PM   #3
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n e other thoughts? im not trying to say that your wrong but i just want to get other peoples thoughts.
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Old 06-18-03, 08:10 PM   #4
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He's right.
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Old 06-19-03, 01:08 PM   #5
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alrighty...thanx. so that just means i need a new clutch kit? what should i go with? Centerforce?
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Old 06-19-03, 05:45 PM   #6
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What ever you want to get. Stock, street/strip, full race. Street/strip has more clamping force while still maintaining the driveability of the car. The other two are self explainatory.
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Old 06-29-03, 06:37 PM   #7
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I have the same exact problem with my FD! I was wondering the same thing, so if I replace the clutch will that be all that I need? Don't you have to turn the pressure plate if you don't get a new one? Also, I have heard that it is a pain in the butt to replace the clutch so if I take it to a shop, about how much will the labor run me? Any help that you guys can give me would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks Nicole
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Old 06-29-03, 07:05 PM   #8
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Its not hard to do a clutch if you have the right tools. I don't know what shops will charge you, you will have to call them and ask them. I've never heard of doing anything to the pressure plate if you are replacing the clutch. If buy an aftermarket street strip clutch, you'll want to get the same pressure plate, but keep the one you have if you get a replacement clutch that is the same as the original.
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Old 06-29-03, 07:22 PM   #9
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Thanks Project84, that's what I was thinking too! I really don't think it is necessary to replace the pressure plate unless it is damaged, etc! I'm gonna call some shops first thing tomorrow morning!

Thanks Again Nicole
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Old 06-29-03, 07:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by sexxy7
I have the same exact problem with my FD! I was wondering the same thing, so if I replace the clutch will that be all that I need? Don't you have to turn the pressure plate if you don't get a new one? Also, I have heard that it is a pain in the butt to replace the clutch so if I take it to a shop, about how much will the labor run me? Any help that you guys can give me would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks Nicole
Shop time is going to vary from shop to shop. For $800 I would have gladly had someone else deal with it. It's messy, and I got more than enough crap in my eyes and lungs to last me a lifetime. The local guys here wanted $1200+ to put a OEM clutch back in. For that price I learned to do it myself and put an upgraded clutch in. It's not hard, but it is messy, and you absolutely have to have the appropriate tools to do it. At a minimum to do it yourself you need:

Big *** breaker bar or impact wrench (I have an impact wrench capable of 500 ft lbs) to remove the EVIL, EVIL flywheel nut.

Big *** screwdriver
14mm combination wrench
complete set of sockets and 1/2" drive socket wrench
P'Blaster or equiavlent
Wood splitting wedge or flywheel puller
other stuff I can't remember right now

Anyhow, it starts to add up after awhile. It cost me around $740 to put my ACT extreme in myself, so it was worth it in the long run.

AS for reusing the pressure plate, you can, but it's probably not a great idea. It will cost you tons of money if you have to pay a shop to go back in there again and fix things if the PP fails. I started to just replace the friction disk (which I could have since my pressure plate was still within spec which I think is 10mm? clearance), and it was a big enugh PITA that I just bought a whole new assembly, complete with throwout bearing and a new release fork.

You can't "re-turn" a PP to my knowledge. If the forks on the PP are bent it's a done deal, they will never work the same even if you bend them back into place. Turning would be in reference to getting the flywheel resurfaced, which is a good idea every time you replace the clutch, and shouldn't be more than $40.

Anyhow, if your clutch is slipping it needs to be replaced. It's dangerous to drive around with a badly slipping clutch. You won't be able to move out of the way in time if you need to because of the lack of "throttle" response.

So...shop around and find out how much it would cost you to have it done. I live in a small little town, so I don' t have too much choice as far as shops go, and I wasn't happy with the quote, so I had to take the DIY route.
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Old 06-29-03, 07:40 PM   #11
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wingsfan, I'm definitely not gonna try it!! I'll just pay the money and get it done right! If I had the tools or the experience then I might give it a try, but in my case, I'll pass! I ordered an ACT 6 puck, so since I'm getting a new pressure plate, I mine as well get them to install it also when they install the clutch because I'm getting to the point where I would rather over do it then anything!
Well, thanks a lot for the advice!

Nicole
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Old 06-29-03, 07:40 PM
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