Climate control and idiot lights on when OFF?
#51
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Since you disappear for periods of time it makes diagnosing your problem that much harder so I'm going to hit you with a bunch of other things to do. The Black wire having voltage is normal even though it is unplugged from the switch because this wire is powered directly from the battery. If you pull the 5 fuses above and it has no affect on the B/W wire (still has power) then try some of the following. W/the Black and B/W wire unplugged from the ignition switch check for voltage on the Blue and B/R wires in the same ignition switch when the B/W wire has voltage and is unplugged. Just check these two wires for voltage in this situation. Again, if pulling the 5 fuses has no change on the B/W wire then try this. W/the battery negative cable removed unbolt the Black cable at the alternator. Then place the battery terminal back on and check for voltage on the B/W wire once again. Another thing to try is this. Look at the Black cable coming from the main fuse in the engine fuse box. Look at this cable as it comes from the box on the trailing side of the box (side closest to the windshield). Follow this cable below the box and see where it mates w/a like Black cable. Unplug this cable. If you unplugged the correct connector then the Black wire at the ignition switch will have no power. Then take a wire of length and connect it to the positive battery terminal. Take the other end and place it to the B/W wire unplugged at the ignition switch. Then go back to the unplugged Black cables under the engine fuse box and see if both cables have power. Only one of the two cables should have power and that would be the one coming from the main fuse and not the other Black cable. If both have power then the likely cause is the voltage from the Black cable running to the ignition switch is cracked and passing voltage on to the B/W wire as they come in contact w/each other. Not a likely scenario but it should be checked if none of the above works.
Also, I don't know if it's obvious, but with the white/black & black wire unplugged, and starting from the beginning turning the ignition switch to ON does not switch on any of the components which are powered by the white/black wire. Which means it's not getting it's initial power source from anywhere but the key. But then continues to stay on regardless of the keys position afterward.
#53
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Okay. Lets say you really took a turbo engine harness and swapped it into your NA car. If you did this then you are guilty of a no no. The turbo engine harness does not mate properly w/the front harness of an NA automobile. There is a 6 pin plug of the turbo engine harness which plugs into a 6 pin NA front harness. None of these wires mate properly. Again, none of these wires mate properly. For example, you mated the sub zero sensor to the ECU. Wrong. You mated the oil sensor to the idiot lights. Wrong. I mean none of these wires should be mated to each other. NONE!!!!!!!!! Both wires from the back of the alternator are in the engine harness and you mated them to the NA front harness connecting to items that would be found on an automatic car.
Last edited by satch; 08-29-14 at 08:32 PM.
#54
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Okay. Lets say you really took a turbo engine harness and swapped it into your NA car. If you did this then you are guilty of a no no. The turbo engine harness does not mate properly w/the front harness of an NA automobile. There is a 6 pin plug of the turbo engine harness which plugs into a 6 pin NA front harness. None of these wires mate properly. Again, none of these wires mate properly. For example, you mated the sub zero sensor to the ECU. Wrong. You mated the oil sensor to the idiot lights. Wrong. I mean none of these wires should be mated to each other. NONE!!!!!!!!! Both wires from the back of the alternator are in the engine harness and you mated them to the NA front harness connecting to items that would be found on an automatic car.
Just to be clear, in case I'm calling them by the wrong names:
The turbo engine came with a harness (which I called turbo engine harness) and an N332 ecu and that one goes through the passenger side firewall. I put the ecu in place of my NA ecu inside the car.
The other harness which I'm calling the NA body harness goes through the drivers side firewall. I've left this in the car and plugged connectors on it into appropriate spots on the engine such as alternator top black wire, crank angle sensor, the sensor under the clutch slave and so on. Is this incorrect to do?
#55
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
The harness connected to the battery is the one that came with my car originally. It is the one I'm calling the NA body harness.
Just to be clear, in case I'm calling them by the wrong names:
The turbo engine came with a harness (which I called turbo engine harness) and an N332 ecu and that one goes through the passenger side firewall. I put the ecu in place of my NA ecu inside the car.
The other harness which I'm calling the NA body harness goes through the drivers side firewall. I've left this in the car and plugged connectors on it into appropriate spots on the engine such as alternator top black wire, crank angle sensor, the sensor under the clutch slave and so on. Is this incorrect to do?
Just to be clear, in case I'm calling them by the wrong names:
The turbo engine came with a harness (which I called turbo engine harness) and an N332 ecu and that one goes through the passenger side firewall. I put the ecu in place of my NA ecu inside the car.
The other harness which I'm calling the NA body harness goes through the drivers side firewall. I've left this in the car and plugged connectors on it into appropriate spots on the engine such as alternator top black wire, crank angle sensor, the sensor under the clutch slave and so on. Is this incorrect to do?
By using the turbo emission harness and not repinning some wires to mate it w/the NA front harness has likely caused your problem or at least part of it. Look through the link below and pay close attention to what Hailers has said as he is an expert on these matters and will show you what changes need to be made to rectify at least some if not all of your issues.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...p-help-699305/
Last edited by satch; 08-29-14 at 11:46 PM.
#56
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The harness which connects to the engine sensors is the "Emission harness" and not the engine harness or body harness or whatever (the harness connected to the battery is the "engine harness," the harness which connects to the main relay and coils is the front harness). This too is not compatible w/the NA front harness. The turbo emission does plug into the NA front harness near the ECU via the two large Orange plugs (FEM-01 and FEM-02) but that's where the similarities end as some of the wires in the emission side are not being mated to the proper wires of the front harness so this needs to be addressed. By using the turbo emission harness and not repinning some wires to mate it w/the NA front harness has likely caused your problem or at least part of it. Look through the link below and pay close attention to what Hailers has said as he is an expert on these matters and will show you what changes need to be made to rectify at least some if not all of your issues. https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...p-help-699305/
#58
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Something new happened today. I went to try and start the car and as soon as I turned the key from ON to ignition and there was a loud click sound and all power turned off.
#61
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Also I replaced the starter solenoid because it had a stripped bolt and when trying the car after both fixes it was able to crank without shorting out. I don't know if the solenoid or the alternator rewiring fixed the starter shorting or if the wire has just been wiggled and is temporarily fixed. Either way I will deal with the problem when it comes back and in the mean time I need to work on getting the car to start.
Thanks for all your help Satch.
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