cooldude

so im getting slack here in america because they dont know whats in a JDM car .

i asked the far east forum where to get parts for a jdm diff rebuild

but rutt must have moved it to 3 gen parts wanted
but they post
its torsion and im stupid


so my question is where would you in japan get the parts . as in whose parts are good for 500 hp car and what is transferable like is it a S4 TII clutches . whats interchangeable with this car

it was a 92 type r

mazda
mazdaspeed
OBX
whose parts should i use


and what condition are these lsd sections in usually , like what happens when they go bad . what are the like good , what does the japan scene do to customize a FD lsd and then how does it act .


my 92 i burnt up towing
rebuilt it
now it pops
so i got a 96 from a importer
it pops worse
both only when turning

i have an extra torsion unit im considering using till i can get a clutch type in good order any problems you guys might know of using the torsion


and are all JDM FDs clutch type LSD ?????

Circuit Theory

iTrader: (52)

First off you are killing yourself by posting like this. Do some research on your own about lsd's.

If your imported 96 LSD is popping when turning that is usually a sign of an aftermarket LSD. It is popping because while you turn one wheel spins faster than the other and that locks up the LSD which then makes the tire skip which is also the time you would be hearing the "popping".

I find it hard to believe that you rebuilt your LSD, especially since you do not know how it works and what a torsen lsd is or even how to spell torsen.

some mechanical/clutch type lsd's do not make as much noise as others but they all do make noise if they are beefed up aftermarket units. If you want a quiet lsd for cheap but you still want it to work then you should get and stock Torsen LSD off of a low mileage FD or nearly any Automatic FD since they generally are not driven as hard. if you are driving and FC then you should go for the 87-88 mechanical LSD since it seems to last longer and take a bit more abuse than the 89-91 viscous unit.

Last of all What the F is a 92 type R?

Jerk_Racer

....and you know what's in a "JDM car"?

cooldude

i know whats in MINE but one car is not a positive indicator of how mazda made them

so if you dont know you ask

unless your bored and need to type

cooldude

i have done research on lsd sections thanks
i can not type or spell ....correct

as for my units the 96 section is in the car now and it feels weird as you turn
the only experience i have is driving stock LSD cars from mazda like a GSL SE, or a S4 TII and they dont behave like this and dont make noise so its some what frightening to hear this pop pop pop as you turn and be confident its not the gears. i was not driving it till i can finish other cars, because i wanted to open it and inspect it. so i figured in the mean time i would see if any one could make me more positive of what i have if its modifyed and if its performing. so i was hoping that cats with the car and cars that have been modifyed or broken can share what its like. mine seems to walk left to right like only one wheel turns at a time. its weird . under power its some different .a friend was telling me that ball berings are moving in and out of seats and alowing the unit to lock and un lock and it would make noise i dont have room to test the cars limits around my shop. so im un sure of what it would be like turning a corner at 100km
its just been in a parking lot. its a car assembled out of a few cars and has no title and is intended for track use and probably a lot of sitting if it continues to suck money. currently im going to open it and see whats in it . then ill set up a teack day to see if its a car or not.

as for did i build the unit
HELL NO
but an older tech at my shop said he could rebuild my first burnt up unit. i didnt question weather he could or not but i have had my doubts as to weather it was built right. it had all new bearings a spacer a new ring and pinion from a aspec car so it has more gear and would have more legs down long straights. we used the old clutches and had a fault similar to the poppong i have with the 96 unit but not so loud. we took it appart and the iner most clutch had tabs missing from it so we figured it needed them so i have just recieved S4 TII clutches and intend to give it another shot. but while we were wondering i needed a transmission so i got a 96 rear section sub frame brakes and all. and just hoping for the best installed in the car . it really needed to be moved back to the shop at my residence.so any way i want a very nice LSD unit for track. i dont care if it makes noise but id like to know what it is and why its doing it.

as for 92 type r
i posted my vin here and i was told it was a 92 HO3 type R MFG 3 20 92
the day after my birthday

https://www.rx7club.com/far-east-forum-203/manufacture-date-fd-574200/

so that my story and im sticking to it
post your reply for the world to see

lol

any way be cool and if i get any info at all ...... ill be better than i was

user 9348703

im lost.......

Tanjo

ya no ****. Just keep the one you have in there now. If its popping only when you turn, but hooking up real good straight, its better than stock anyways.

suganuma

If it wasn't popping before you rebuilt it, but now it's popping, something is probably wrong.

If the one you had imported pops while going around turns, it's most likely an aggressively set up clutch version. If this is the case, most of them are adjustable once you get it apart for how much you want it to slip or not. This becomes important in slower slalom parts of a course, but also longer turns as getting the car to turn-in can sometimes be affected by it. You can overcome this by forcing the car to oversteer to get on a good angle for the turn, but obviously this is slower...among other things. For drag, it works great. This is only my experience.....

Also, this section is probably the least helpful one I've found. I suggest you do research and/or ask other people somewhere else.

If you're running under ~350rwhp, just keep the stock torsen diff.

Harold93

COOLDUDE, you dont nessisarily need a JDM LSD if you are realy looking for performance and durability you need to start lookin ginto the KAAZ LSD it is solid!! i am mostly a high grip guy but there are two of my buddies out here running it on drag cars and they love it. It is mechanical, oh and for the guy at your shop i think he took you even mazda cant rebuild the LSD out of anythign before 95. good luck, if you need to trace down parts let me know

Harold

Rutt

Your first post was one of the typical demands for parts but it did seem like you wanted more info on FD LSD's so I moved your thread to a forum with more traffic instead of deleting it.

My suggestion:
Find out what type/brand diff is in the pumpkin and then work from there.
The popping is probably causded by a high initial torque setting.
High initial torque setting require more force to make the plates slip. This is good for launching and hard breaking but this sucks when navigating through parking lots or slow turns because both wheels try to turn at the same speed instead of allow the inner wheelside of the diff to slip and turn slower.

There are also three different types of "lockup" for clutch LSD's:
1way - activates only on accel
1.5way - fully on accel and partially on decel
2way - fully on accel and decel

The rate at which lockup/slip occurs is also controlled by the contact angle inside of the pressure ring (30*, 45* and 55* are the most common angles) for the 4-way camshaft and the design of the cam.

Holding strength of the diff will depend on:
The number of plates used (normally 10 to 20).
Type of plates used - metal or carbon
Oil flow - many early LSD's failed prematurely because of poor oil flow
Incorrect oil and low oil will also kill the plates. Japanese owners are notorious for NOT changing the fluids in a vehicle.
Quality of the metal used for internal parts of the diff.

Some of the clutch lsd makers:
ATS - 1/1.5/2way
Cusco - 1/1.5/2way
KAAZ - 1/1.5/2way
Rigid - 1/1.5/2way

Aftermarket Torsen:
Quaife - 1way
Route 6 - 1way
Xebec - 1way

Hybrid: Torsen + clutch plates
OS Giken - 1.5way only

Clutch LSD's need specific fluids for the plates and need scheduled overhauls but are rebuildable and can be tuned specifically for tracks and drivers.

Torsen LSD - low maintenance; no special fluids needed; Quaife has a lifetime warranty on failures. Can not be tuned for lockup type or rate of lockup.

Hybrid - best of both worlds

Get it overhauled to your specs with the CORRECT PARTS and then go rip some pavement!!