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iannetti ceramics apex seals

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Old 02-28-05, 10:04 AM
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THE ACE IS BACK!!!!! WHOOOOOOH! How are you doing mate?

Sorry for the offtopic post

Ace, riceracing's already corrected his original responce, lets not drag old problems back out and just keep it to it being a misunderstanding. Internet is often a heartless environment enough
Old 03-01-05, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Multiplex
THE ACE IS BACK!!!!! WHOOOOOOH! How are you doing mate?

Sorry for the offtopic post

Ace, riceracing's already corrected his original responce, lets not drag old problems back out and just keep it to it being a misunderstanding. Internet is often a heartless environment enough
Hey Bas, I never left I was always here......

And yeah, I saw that the posts have been "corrected", I just wanted to express my own personal opinion.....

And I do agree that the ceramics (and the 3mm especially) are way better than the plain metallic ones even for road use......I just disagreed on the type and tone of response from a seller
Old 03-02-05, 09:41 AM
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Hi ace,

Ah, secretly reading along with us huh I trust life is treating you good

Disagree with such reactions we all do.. But things are good now

These ceramic seals are sounding better and better. Are there any good pages about these? Wouldn't mind reading a bit more about the why,how,etc.
Old 03-03-05, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Multiplex
Hi ace,

Ah, secretly reading along with us huh I trust life is treating you good
Yep

And "as much as possible". I'm back in Greece now, with all the "pluses" and "minuses" that this means......working my *** off though
Old 03-04-05, 02:51 AM
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you mentioned one piece 3mms, what sort of port are you using these on mostly? pport? full bridge?


Ace: yeah, its been a while
Old 03-04-05, 04:59 AM
  #31  
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I personally prefer them on every type of engine, By runing one piece you are eliminating axial loads due to angle nature of corner piece (important in HIGH HP engines) also you are greatly increasing the strength of the two piee styled seal that almost always break near the tapered end on a two piece style....

The small insignificant pressure loss of multy piece V's one piece is totaly livable.

Even in Mazda's own SAE published scientific paper 92039 the documented/tested variations in power over one piece seals and multi piece is a massive average of 1.5% and at revs above 7k rpm its less than 0.5% & at peak power 9k rpm there is less than a 0.25% difference in power.

The differences are simply not there to justify weakening the seal and imposing extra radial friction due to the seal ends being pressed into the side housings that does not happen with one piece design.

I must say that this SAE article as submited by Mazda Motor Corp's racing divisions matches up what I have found in my own very small and not so thorough analytical way that there is minimal difference and infact very quickly over the life of the engine the quality ceramic one piece seal will do a better job over the life of the engine due to holding exact tolerances and not wearing into a banana shape like shitty steel type seals do so quickly when they are hard pressed upon, let alone when they wear out slots and other negatives that I have pointed out before.

One piece quality ceramic seals are the performance and durability choice that I personaly run and recomend to all my customers, the evidence from the authority (LeMans 24Hr rotary winners) proves it beyone doubt and others like me have experience very similar things over the course of years.
Old 03-16-05, 12:49 PM
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thank's for the info here Rice Racing.. and thank's for sharing it..

/jönsson
Old 05-15-05, 04:25 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Robertio
Are you seeing the same compression for Iannetti seals as steel ones? In the UK it seems the norm that you get much lower compression on ceramics.

FWIW, the Iannettis in my last engine were a huge waste of money for me as they lasted <12k on the front rotor before becoming a large collection of small bits of ceramic. Good old Mazda steel one are going in this time as they are somewhat kinder on the wallet if/when they fail.

I'm surprised you were able to get 12K before running into a problem. I can assure you the seal was probably not the problem. The reason I say that is because of rapid spring wear. The stock springs wear very quickly rubbing against the hard ceramic and that is why I developed a hard faced spring kit to compliment the NRS seals. See for your self in the pictures below.

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Old 02-21-13, 10:27 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by RICE RACING
I am quite polite and friendly and extend my help to many rotary enthusiasts.... such as Dimitris for example. Its hard to monitor every single sub forum and thread to see what is being talked about realy good products. You may understand the negative implications an opinion can have specialy from someone who wants to push that view. I extend my peace offereing and say to everyone if you want to learn more about it feel free to PM me or read the below post I have put out in other areas to extend you knowledge of this performance high durability product I sell and sell lots of.

**Posted**

Just wanted to share with fellow builders my experience with this *world class* high durability/quality product.

We have been doing some endurance testing with GURU racing (X-Treme rotaries) here in Australia and are very excitied by the data/results we have achieved. We have been doing back to back tests in a 20B ski racing boat which runs a bridge ported 3 rotor water to air IC, 22 psi boost operating at full throttle full load 9000rpm for periods of up to 30 minutes continuous !!! Have done three such race meetings and numerous testing days and the seals are living up to all expectations.

http://www.xtremerotaries.com/boatvideo/roh_boat_1.wmv
http://www.xtremerotaries.com/boatvideo/roh_boat_2.wmv
http://www.xtremerotaries.com/boatvideo/roh_boat_3.wmv
http://www.xtremerotaries.com/boatvideo/roh_boat_3b.wmv

http://ausrotary.dntinternet.com/for...light=ski+boat

We have the boat running with Ianetti seals in the front and middle rotor and NRS premium grey seals in the rear rotor Comp readings have stayed consistent around the 7.90 kg/cm region for all rotors since run in period.... A leading brand of aftermarket ferrous "steel" seals did not handle a test session without showing extreme signs of duress on leading radius edge

I sell lots of these seals in their two main specifications (black ceramic for NA/turbo race engines *mostly to replace fast wearing Carbon seals*) and premium grey ceramic (best material money can buy !) for unlimited HP rotary applications.
Originally Posted by cruiser
See... that's the way to sell the product.

But I have one question - I read that these seals are not so nice to the rotor housings. Any comments on this ?
mate,
i'm an engineering student and doing my final year project at the Uni of Greenwich,UK. can you please tell me the material used by mazda to manufacture OEM apex seals. please help me as there is a lot of info floating around and i don't know what to believe.
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