ComicArtist

So here's my issue.

I got my 1jz in my FC running yesterday. The car currently has a welded NA rear end.

I'm going to have to have a custom driveshaft made for the JZ, and I don't want to make it for my NA diff because as soon as I dump the clutch, it'll start snapping input shafts and all that jazz. So I want to go ahead and put a S4 T2 rear end in it, live with the clutch type for a little bit, and then eventually put a carbonetics or kaaz in it.

Here's the thing, I found a S4 T2 diff that the guy has FD torsen internals in. Is it worth picking up just so I can have the driveshaft made, drift the car for a little while, and then swap a real LSD in it? Apparently the torsens are good up to like 400hp, which is more than this 1j will be making for a while.

Plus, I can go ahead and have my driveshaft built and not worry about snapping axles or input shafts.

Whatcha think?

joshuaput

if it isnt a billion bucks then do it.

ComicArtist

The guy hit me back up. It was basically a billion bucks plus me making a 10 hour drive and pulling it for him. So never mind.

On this topic though, what are the opinions on Torsens from people who have actually drifted on them? I know they're like the holy grail to Miata guys but I haven't seen an rx7 guy who actually liked them

eage8

iTrader: (9)

They're way better than an S5 viscous diff, and better than a 30 year old stock S4 clutch type.

I ran one on my turbo FC Autocross car for a while and it was way better than the stock viscous. semi-recently and upgraded to an OS Giken, and it's better, but not nearly as much better as I thought it would be.

I still have my old FD torsen in a box if you're interested.

beachFC

iTrader: (13)

Torsens suck donkey *****, a shimmed s4 diff is 1,000,000 times better than a gay torsen.

ComicArtist

Why is this? Obviously a clutch type diff is going to react differently, but why exactly does the torsen suck so much?

I really just don't want to have one shipped, I'll drive a couple hours to get one but I'd really like to avoid shipping.

beachFC

iTrader: (13)

They never actually "lock" for one. In most cases, they're chosen to help REDUCE wheel spin in corners hahaha.. not ideal for drifting.

They're designed to be open going straight, but as soon as one wheel has less traction than the other(wet, corner, etc) it will apply a preset ratio(ie: 3:1) of torque to the other wheel. Meaning, if one wheel has less traction, it can apply up to 3x the torque to the other wheel.. they don't ever really lock together. Its either open, or one wheel is getting more torque than the other.


Here's a doozy. Say one wheel dirt drops, that wheel now only needs ~30 ft lbs of torque to spin.. the opposite wheel is only going to receive 3x that amount, 90 ft lbs.

Which is ****** boo boo.

joshuaput

get an s4 clutch type. pull the clutch packs and weld the **** out of it. done

sp0ngebob

iTrader: (1)

if you look at how a "TORque SENsing" or Torsen diff works, youd see why its not ideal for drifting but more for either road racing or spirited driving.

they use worm gears cut at an angle to reduce the amount of "back drive" that the axles can have on the diff. its really hard to explain in words, but once you see a picture of one you go "OHHHHH...i get it" and its all clear.

btw, the more perpendicular the worm gear do the drive gear, the less backdrive is possible, until it reaches effectively perpendicular

Fleemer

N/a diff is stronger then you think. Dont put more then ~300hp at it and it will be fine. You dont need more then 300hp unless you want to buy a bunch of new tires all the time.

Get an n/a diff, weld it. Run it until it breaks.

Make sure you have solid diff mounts or you wont have a good time.

As others said torsen isnt ideal for drifting but it works good enough. Its more reliable then a s4 clutch as it wont wear out over the season and "locks" sortof enough. You can allways weld the torsen lol.

Zenki FC3S

yea i think j lowe is on a welded NA diff and he has like 500 hp REW

Reallygood101

iTrader: (1)

can anyone verify on the welded NA diff being a good cheap route for up to 300hp im gonna b goin 1jz over the winter and its crazy hard to find t2 diff and axels so maybe ill just stay wit my welded NA diff if its strong enough

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Aaron Cake is running a S4 GXL clutch-type LSD at 500hp. There's no need to butcher a S4T2 one by welding it. If you're prepared to go that route, people practically give away NA open diffs here.

bumpstart

300 rwhp and a hard launch will bust the bearing caps and carnage follows

if driven conservatively then it will last as long as you want it to

the same 7 inch diffs are in the s2000.. ask on those forums what they think



ps
back in the day ( weekly race meets in my 13bt rx2 )
i killed more of these medium type diffs than i could count .. likely more than anyone on this planet



1 hip high pile .. beside a hip high stack of broken axles .. before i moved to the hilux diff

i very much doubt the ability of the bearing caps. or the inner axles . to deal very long with a 1Jz

go to the 13bt diff .. s4 lsd with a repack.. or trip over an open one ( the open ones are common in oz ) and weld it up

you will need the outer half shafts that go with it,, your NA stuff will not bolt up

and there is some detail changes in s4 mid vin that make you take the inner and outers as pairs
( as mixing the s4 early inner/ late outer and vichy versa does not work )

Justen

iTrader: (12)

But if you do decide to butcher one, save any good clutch packs and mail them to me. I could use some spares

sil8ty

i'm breaking Tii axles with like 475whp.

add grip + power and even the bigger Tii diff will snap.

i HIGHLY doubt j.lowe is running an NA diff. that car has nitrous and a bunch of power + grippy *** tires. he'd have blown those axles from under that car a long time ago.

NA is good for dudes who are running a stock NA motor and no-grip all seasons.