blackstatis

of the people who have tig welded these, what kind of process did you use... pre-heat? post-heat? butt joint? what kind of fill rod and etc...?

also does anyone know FOR SURE what kind of metal this is. i know that its forged steel, but what kind of steel is important.

thanks

dcwfc3s

iTrader: (1)

This is my favorite thread - everyone is fun.

JustinsFDpoweredFC

Lots of good info in this thread

enrgy

Just finished reading all thread, very good info here Old thread, but I'll better ask here than create a new one.
What's the general consensus of what length to cut away from the spindle while using stock fenders? Someone on this thread mentioned cutting away 15mm, others a bit more. I have a local welder who's done many s13 spindles so he can do that for me since I am from Europe and shipping spindles for someone to do in the US is not very reasonable price wise. I will have Abercrombie tie rod ends, inner spacers and also will extend my lca ball joint while having 8.5j R17 front wheels under stock fenders.

enrgy

Anyone? I just don't want to cut away too much and I guess many people on here have done their knuckles.

NWHero

iTrader: (1)

im not quite sure what having stock fenders have to do with cutting your spindles? steering angle doesnt have much to do with fender clearance.

wheel width/offset, spacers, lca length, camber, tire size, ride height, will all affect fender clearance, but not steering angle.

joshuaput

cut 15 to 20mm. weld see how they work. if they suck get another set then cut it different. idk. I would just pay some dude to ship you some.

enrgy

I can get it done for 50-100 bucks or so in here, if I will ship it to US it will cost much more for only shipping back and forth so I will take a chance to mess up a set of knuckles if needed.

Thanks for info, I will try something in the lines of 15-20mm.

Riggs

Hey everyone, it's been a while.

In the time that I last posted on the site (or even lurked) I have installed custom lengthened balljoints on S4 LCAs as well as lengthened inner tie rods to match. Balljoints are 2 1/4" longer than stock. Everything was aligned recently and the car has been great even on daily driver duties for about a week now.

Only problem is that I find that the steering over centers when I'm making U turns or generally giving the steering wheel the business. Only about the last 1/4 turn of the wheel causes this. No rack spacers, stock rack and outer tie rods.

Have I just gone too wide or what?

If so, no big deal. I'll just get new stock parts and cut and TIG them up but shorter. I'd rather not have to though.

Zenki FC3S

well you have 2.25" extended ball joints, they dont need to be that long...

some heim joint rod ends would help maybe

Riggs

I'm aware that they don't have to be that long, but I'm wondering why I am overcentering now. How would rod ends help the issue?

I don't think I really have THAT much angle at this point... I mean I've definitely seen purpose built cars with more for sure. Do I need to look at repositioning my rack or something? It seems S chassis have the overcentering issue and that rack spacers help fix it. I know their racks are in front of the axle whereas the FC has the rack behind.
Maybe caster plays a part as well?
I may need to check ackerman at this point too.

Riggs

So according to RcTek - Radio Controlled Model Car Handling - The Ackerman Steering Principle
and considering my setup (widened track and angle modded knuckles) I believe I have less ackerman simply because of lengthened arms, also because of the way my knuckles were modified.
maybe this plus a low caster number are causing the issue?
Could really use some advice from someone with experience on this.

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

did you even work on your car bro? your rack is in the front.

Riggs

It's obviously a typo.
I just told you all I custom fabricated my own front end parts.
But hey of you're stuck on trying to call people out for being morons because of silly typos... then by all means, captain.

Zenki FC3S

i have never been a fan of lengthened ball joints. over 2.000" is just too much in my opinion.

lengthening the balljoint 2.000" is going to change the geometry of the suspension and possibly make it drive funny.

i have been considering lengthening my ball joint or making a new LCA, i have a couple ideas, but either way it would only be .500" just enough so my tire doesnt rub when at full lock,

Nick Ritter

anyone know who makes angle kits for these cars (FC3S) anymore ? besides PBM

can't get ahold of abercrombie (really wanted his kit heard great things about it)

hotline racing/ jtp doesn't do knuckles anymore just emailed him.

only person i found left is teals suspension and haven't heard of anyone using them of how much angle they are getting. is that kit just bunk ?

don't mean to bump an old thread but don't want to start a new one

SpikeDerailed

iTrader: (7)

Have you checked with Mazdatrix/Kyle Mohan, he has knuckles listed from time to time on ebay.

Nick Ritter

i have not, i will look into that i contacted teals and the kit is very decently priced and is able to hit 65 degrees of angle with 4 degrees of spread. He also has replacement parts on hand like extended ball joints s13 tie rods etc. looking for the most angle with less than 6 degrees of spread at full lock abercrombies kit hit 72 degrees at 4 degrees spread, really want that kit but i guess anything is better than stock lock what ever that is, like 35 sum idk.

it would be great if someone is willing to share their experience with teals !! already read the thread on it not really helpful just bickering https://www.rx7club.com/drifting-226...stuff-1085716/

thanks, nick

SpikeDerailed

iTrader: (7)

If you have only stock lock right now going to threaded inner tie rods feels like a world of difference and that only gets you to around 45* of lock.

Nick Ritter

id rather just jump to the 65 degrees, less $$$ in the long run

thank you though