Project KA FC
10-12-12, 09:44 AM
#102
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Friend gave me a pair of Enkei Aegis, size sucks but apparently they're rare and I'm gonna try and get them rebarrelled since they're 3 piece.
10-22-12, 11:01 PM
#103
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Well, Mineral Wells yesterday was a blast! Unfortunately I don't have any action shots until I get the pictures off my lady's camera, but here's some I took with my phone.
Loaded up:
Went to a mall in Dallas and hardparked with this Porsche. We were the only cars in the whole end of the parking lot. Hopefully it pissed him off:
Saw this awesome gila monster at the mall:
Made it out, slid all day, had fun.
Only problems I had was it getting a little hot. I think I'm going to go ahead and get a 3-core radiator and electric fans, besides that it handled/felt awesome. It was actually super hard to get traction with the 16"s, once I swapped to the 17" Enkei's it felt great.
Can't wait for the next event, need power steering and a bucket seat before then though.
Loaded up:
Went to a mall in Dallas and hardparked with this Porsche. We were the only cars in the whole end of the parking lot. Hopefully it pissed him off:
Saw this awesome gila monster at the mall:
Made it out, slid all day, had fun.
Only problems I had was it getting a little hot. I think I'm going to go ahead and get a 3-core radiator and electric fans, besides that it handled/felt awesome. It was actually super hard to get traction with the 16"s, once I swapped to the 17" Enkei's it felt great.
Can't wait for the next event, need power steering and a bucket seat before then though.
10-27-12, 08:58 AM
#104
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this is a pretty sick build. I love the ride height your sitting at with the crown vic wheels! Looks super clean and very original! Keep up the good work and you give me inspiration to keep going with my little RX lol
10-31-12, 02:58 PM
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Finally got around to getting tires mounted on my rear wheels and put em on. Not surprisingly they're about an inch sunk, looks gay as **** but when I get camber links and pull the quarters a little, they'll sit super flush with 0 ish camber.
It's kinda hard to fit two tires/wheels in an S30 without taking out the passenger seat.
Also, decided I didn't like the K-Sport hydro and was going to go with something else, so I traded it for a Recaro and some tires. The Recaro practically bolted to my stock sliders, all I had to do was drill a couple new holes in the sliders. It's super comfy, but doesn't sit as low as I'd like and doesn't offer enough side support as I'd like. But whenever I get around to buying a fixed back Bride, I'll just put it in the passenger side.
And here's a couple action pics from Mineral Wells:
It's kinda hard to fit two tires/wheels in an S30 without taking out the passenger seat.
Also, decided I didn't like the K-Sport hydro and was going to go with something else, so I traded it for a Recaro and some tires. The Recaro practically bolted to my stock sliders, all I had to do was drill a couple new holes in the sliders. It's super comfy, but doesn't sit as low as I'd like and doesn't offer enough side support as I'd like. But whenever I get around to buying a fixed back Bride, I'll just put it in the passenger side.
And here's a couple action pics from Mineral Wells:
10-31-12, 09:16 PM
#109
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I don't want to gut it yet haha. My last drift car was completely gutted and stitch welded, and it was a pain in the *** to daily haha. I'll probably end up gutting it whenever I cage it and it becomes fully track/not street legal. For now it does fine with full interior though.
01-02-13, 01:47 PM
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So I traded a battery for this single VSKF. It's a 19x10 +13, idk what Im going to do with it yet. Definitely test fitting it on the FC but probably going to make a table out of it.
On other topics, I picked up an s13 coupe a couple weeks ago and have been putting it back together to sell to fund this and the s30. Pics of it in case anyone's interested.
Once I sell it, I'll put new coils on the s30, probably rebuild the KA in the FC so I'll have a fresh motor for 2013, do a new cooling system, get knuckles, etc. Hopefully by the time my tax refund comes in I can get new wheels and a kit.
On other topics, I picked up an s13 coupe a couple weeks ago and have been putting it back together to sell to fund this and the s30. Pics of it in case anyone's interested.
Once I sell it, I'll put new coils on the s30, probably rebuild the KA in the FC so I'll have a fresh motor for 2013, do a new cooling system, get knuckles, etc. Hopefully by the time my tax refund comes in I can get new wheels and a kit.
01-09-13, 01:34 PM
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S30 is running hacked up dc2 Integra coilovers.
I bought this steering wheel a while back and just got around to buying a hub and putting it on. It needs a quick release cause it sits too far away from me though. And it's a tad smaller than stock so I'll definitely need to run power steering.
Anyone have a good 3 port power steering rack? I'll need one for the ka.
I bought this steering wheel a while back and just got around to buying a hub and putting it on. It needs a quick release cause it sits too far away from me though. And it's a tad smaller than stock so I'll definitely need to run power steering.
Anyone have a good 3 port power steering rack? I'll need one for the ka.
01-10-13, 09:28 PM
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I'm going to do a factory rebuild with arp head studs and a cometic head gasket so I'll have a solid fresh power plant for 2013, a new cooling setup with a 3 core radiator and electric fans, dtss eliminators, knuckles, and probably a couple other miscellaneous mods. That's the basics of what I want to get done by the time drift season starts up again. Hopefully it'll all be done by April or May and I'll be able to make as many events as possible.
01-10-13, 10:53 PM
#120
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I'm going to do a factory rebuild with arp head studs and a cometic head gasket so I'll have a solid fresh power plant for 2013, a new cooling setup with a 3 core radiator and electric fans, dtss eliminators, knuckles, and probably a couple other miscellaneous mods. That's the basics of what I want to get done by the time drift season starts up again. Hopefully it'll all be done by April or May and I'll be able to make as many events as possible.
01-10-13, 11:12 PM
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Good move on dumping the clutch fan. an unshrouded fan that far away from the radiator only stirs hot air around the engine bay, which doesn't cool the car and wastes power.
If you were going to keep a clutch fan, then you'd need to build a proper shroud so the can and actually pull air through the radiator.
However, dumping the clutch fan makes the engine rev MUCH happier.
for drifting, large radiators are good as you run the car hard for 30-60 sec, then go back to idling for a few minutes. basically, you shock them with tons of heat, then you have several minutes for the fans to cool things down. Get a radiator with big end tanks, or install a large swirl tank so the system stores lots of water, and use two smaller fans. one big fan has less surface area than two smaller ones that can cover more width.
I just ran the fans on my car off the factory fan relay- it kicks on any time the water temp hits 205 deg. voila. while I'm on track, it stays about 200 and the fan doesn't run since there's air forced through the radiator. pull into pits and the temps start to go up since there's no forced air. (insert need for fans here.)
An alu flywheel and pulley set will help the car rev- watch the forums and you can always find some dumbass highschooler that drifted his entire life's savings into a telephone pole, and he's got to part the car NOW so he can go to school next week. (I picked up a spare tranny, flywheel, clutch, LSD, and ASP pulley for $300... average used price for all of that is about $900 separately)
I'm not sure if the ECU you have will like going to an S14 MAF, but it's a lot larger diameter and smoother airflow through there is a good thing. the S13 MAF is pretty restrictive.
get a heat shield around the air filter to isolate it from the exhaust and radiator heat. you'd be amazed how much power you pick up just by cooler air. a CAI doesn't help much because of the stupid long intake tubes then, and it messes with the harmonics.
If you can find them on the cheap, run the early S13 exhaust cams in both sides (the 248s, not the 240s). They're pretty durn cheap, and they'll move the power band up so you're pulling to redline. (my car is fastest on the straights shifting at 6700rpm).
Keep revs below 7000 so your bearings last. go any higher, and bearing life goes from years to weeks.
A header helps, if you can find/build something that will fit the FC chassis. If your exhaust has precats at all- it should since you're using OBD-I engine- that also raises engine temps another 20 deg just because of the added restriction right by the engine.
those are all pretty cheap and easy things to do, and it'll get the car to roughly 165whp +tq on the stock ECU. a proper tune will get you another few hp and a wider powerband.
If you want to keep running it NA, an Xcessive intake manifold and good header will cost you another $750-1000.. a proper bottom end refresh w/ balancing, and you can be looking at 200whp on stock compression.
Those that said they had to up the compression and do crazy **** on their cars and still couldn't make 200hp were doing it wrong. I've seen proper race-built KAs putting out over 300whp, but that takes 13:1 compression, race gas, ported heads, and HUGE cams.
Anyway, hope some of that helps. keep things simple and do them right, and the KA is reliable as anything else out there, with tons of torque but can still rev when needed.
If you were going to keep a clutch fan, then you'd need to build a proper shroud so the can and actually pull air through the radiator.
However, dumping the clutch fan makes the engine rev MUCH happier.
for drifting, large radiators are good as you run the car hard for 30-60 sec, then go back to idling for a few minutes. basically, you shock them with tons of heat, then you have several minutes for the fans to cool things down. Get a radiator with big end tanks, or install a large swirl tank so the system stores lots of water, and use two smaller fans. one big fan has less surface area than two smaller ones that can cover more width.
I just ran the fans on my car off the factory fan relay- it kicks on any time the water temp hits 205 deg. voila. while I'm on track, it stays about 200 and the fan doesn't run since there's air forced through the radiator. pull into pits and the temps start to go up since there's no forced air. (insert need for fans here.)
An alu flywheel and pulley set will help the car rev- watch the forums and you can always find some dumbass highschooler that drifted his entire life's savings into a telephone pole, and he's got to part the car NOW so he can go to school next week. (I picked up a spare tranny, flywheel, clutch, LSD, and ASP pulley for $300... average used price for all of that is about $900 separately)
I'm not sure if the ECU you have will like going to an S14 MAF, but it's a lot larger diameter and smoother airflow through there is a good thing. the S13 MAF is pretty restrictive.
get a heat shield around the air filter to isolate it from the exhaust and radiator heat. you'd be amazed how much power you pick up just by cooler air. a CAI doesn't help much because of the stupid long intake tubes then, and it messes with the harmonics.
If you can find them on the cheap, run the early S13 exhaust cams in both sides (the 248s, not the 240s). They're pretty durn cheap, and they'll move the power band up so you're pulling to redline. (my car is fastest on the straights shifting at 6700rpm).
Keep revs below 7000 so your bearings last. go any higher, and bearing life goes from years to weeks.
A header helps, if you can find/build something that will fit the FC chassis. If your exhaust has precats at all- it should since you're using OBD-I engine- that also raises engine temps another 20 deg just because of the added restriction right by the engine.
those are all pretty cheap and easy things to do, and it'll get the car to roughly 165whp +tq on the stock ECU. a proper tune will get you another few hp and a wider powerband.
If you want to keep running it NA, an Xcessive intake manifold and good header will cost you another $750-1000.. a proper bottom end refresh w/ balancing, and you can be looking at 200whp on stock compression.
Those that said they had to up the compression and do crazy **** on their cars and still couldn't make 200hp were doing it wrong. I've seen proper race-built KAs putting out over 300whp, but that takes 13:1 compression, race gas, ported heads, and HUGE cams.
Anyway, hope some of that helps. keep things simple and do them right, and the KA is reliable as anything else out there, with tons of torque but can still rev when needed.
01-11-13, 06:57 AM
#122
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Thanks man. I'm not too worried about power right now, it's decent and does alright, but I'll keep that in consideration when I'm putting the motor back together.
Where are you at that KA stuff is so expensive? Haha here in Oklahoma you can get a full running dohc 5 speed motor set for $300. I've bought three KA swaps in the last year and paid less than that for each.
Where are you at that KA stuff is so expensive? Haha here in Oklahoma you can get a full running dohc 5 speed motor set for $300. I've bought three KA swaps in the last year and paid less than that for each.
01-11-13, 08:17 AM
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I'm in Houston. Prices are triple what they are in OKC and Tulsa area...
To clarify though, the parts in question were Exedy flywheel ($375 new), ACT clutch ($400 new), ASP underdrive pulley ($125 new), and used VLSDs go for about $200 each.
Trans go anywhere from $50 to $250, depending on what crowd you're running with around here. it's pretty crazy what some people think their stuff is worth for 20 yr old beat up crap!
As to the points above, there's a lot of stuff oyu can do for cheap that will add up. cams make a HUGE difference on these engines- more than most people want to believe. the other big bottleneck is the intake manifold. with the stock IM, you'll never get over about 210whp unless you go stupid high on compression and force the airspeed through the manifold near sonic. get a better manifold with larger, shorter runners, and suddenly these truck engines start to breathe and they'll make real power.
To clarify though, the parts in question were Exedy flywheel ($375 new), ACT clutch ($400 new), ASP underdrive pulley ($125 new), and used VLSDs go for about $200 each.
Trans go anywhere from $50 to $250, depending on what crowd you're running with around here. it's pretty crazy what some people think their stuff is worth for 20 yr old beat up crap!
As to the points above, there's a lot of stuff oyu can do for cheap that will add up. cams make a HUGE difference on these engines- more than most people want to believe. the other big bottleneck is the intake manifold. with the stock IM, you'll never get over about 210whp unless you go stupid high on compression and force the airspeed through the manifold near sonic. get a better manifold with larger, shorter runners, and suddenly these truck engines start to breathe and they'll make real power.
Last edited by Matt93SE; 01-11-13 at 08:20 AM.
01-12-13, 07:42 AM
#125
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