"The Rebound"
#209
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: bloomington, mn
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
not to clutter this thread but you have not read the PSM post about them. They WILL NOT SELL YOU the flca WITHOUT modding YOUR knuckles. They are selling it as a kit. Not to say it couldn't work with JTP's, but spending extra money twice for a similar result is stupid.
#211
not to clutter this thread but you have not read the PSM post about them. They WILL NOT SELL YOU the flca WITHOUT modding YOUR knuckles. They are selling it as a kit. Not to say it couldn't work with JTP's, but spending extra money twice for a similar result is stupid.
to be honest there's a small increase in angle the biggest difference is in the roll center correction which is pretty awesome... although if i ran smaller wheels.. like 9" or even 8.5" fronts instead of 10" there would be a greater increase in angle..
What PBM is offering is a LEVEL UP solution.. (saying a basic rack spacer and tie rods ends would be level 1, my knuckles would be a level 2 and the PBM drop knuckle and FLCA would be level 3) it's pretty much the end all for front suspension upgrade for the FC... paired with their full rear suspension solution it's a total package for a Max'd out FC drift suspension
Last edited by J.T.P.; 12-04-13 at 01:46 PM.
#214
loved seeing this car get down in the ASB video and love the seeing it in it's current state.
i have pics of this car on my phone as motivation to finish my FC. I currently drift a LS1 s13.4 but wanted to try something different.
Keep up the good work and looking fwd to seeing u drift n 2014.
i have pics of this car on my phone as motivation to finish my FC. I currently drift a LS1 s13.4 but wanted to try something different.
Keep up the good work and looking fwd to seeing u drift n 2014.
#215
Registered User
iTrader: (11)
PBM is saying Martin's wheels (17x9+20 & 235/40/17) are the highest offset you can run and (I'm assuming) still have max angle. If your wheels, while wider, have the same (or less) back-spacing than a 9J+20 wheel wouldn't you still be getting the maximum angle available from the kit? Or, do the wider wheels hit/rub in some place other than the frame-rail / control-arm / sway-bar due to the increased width over Martin's setup?
#216
What were the specs of those 10" wheels you were running?
PBM is saying Martin's wheels (17x9+20 & 235/40/17) are the highest offset you can run and (I'm assuming) still have max angle. If your wheels, while wider, have the same (or less) back-spacing than a 9J+20 wheel wouldn't you still be getting the maximum angle available from the kit? Or, do the wider wheels hit/rub in some place other than the frame-rail / control-arm / sway-bar due to the increased width over Martin's setup?
PBM is saying Martin's wheels (17x9+20 & 235/40/17) are the highest offset you can run and (I'm assuming) still have max angle. If your wheels, while wider, have the same (or less) back-spacing than a 9J+20 wheel wouldn't you still be getting the maximum angle available from the kit? Or, do the wider wheels hit/rub in some place other than the frame-rail / control-arm / sway-bar due to the increased width over Martin's setup?
#223
What a great build up yet again. After reading the whole thread and noticing all the PBM(PSM) goodies your running I just had a quick question. Currently I'm running the solid diff bushings and front mount, and the solid subframe bushings, I got on the PBM site and noticed a few more goodies for the rear but i really don't understand what each of them do and what they actually help with. Any chance you could explain the following?
Toe Eliminator Bushing
Trailing Arm Rear Upper Bushing
FC Trailing Arm Front Bushing spherical bearing conversion
Thanks in advance
Toe Eliminator Bushing
Trailing Arm Rear Upper Bushing
FC Trailing Arm Front Bushing spherical bearing conversion
Thanks in advance
#224
Full Member
The toe eliminator (usually referred to as DTSS eliminators) get rid of the passive rear wheel steering.
the other two (I think you're using two names for the same part actually) just limit the travel of the trailing arm to a vertical swinging motion instead of a rubber bushing that over time gets sloppy. Taking the slop out means a more tunable and predictable suspension.
the other two (I think you're using two names for the same part actually) just limit the travel of the trailing arm to a vertical swinging motion instead of a rubber bushing that over time gets sloppy. Taking the slop out means a more tunable and predictable suspension.
#225
custom engine mounts with poly bushings and stock t2 s5 trans mount for now.. considering changing to 1 poly and 1 solid engine bushings and solid mounting the new g-force trans I'm working on putting in
as riggs said toe elim bushings do just that..
trailing arm upper bushing basically eliminates the top spherical bearing since there's no longer any movement at that point with the toe eliminator bushings installed.
fc trailing arm front bushing conversion basically just eliminates the sloppy front bushing as riggs mentioned... you can also lock it out to the full rear position when using the toe links, which will increase the wheel base a bit which slightly helps stabilize rotation of the car in drift.
What a great build up yet again. After reading the whole thread and noticing all the PBM(PSM) goodies your running I just had a quick question. Currently I'm running the solid diff bushings and front mount, and the solid subframe bushings, I got on the PBM site and noticed a few more goodies for the rear but i really don't understand what each of them do and what they actually help with. Any chance you could explain the following?
Toe Eliminator Bushing
Trailing Arm Rear Upper Bushing
FC Trailing Arm Front Bushing spherical bearing conversion
Thanks in advance
Toe Eliminator Bushing
Trailing Arm Rear Upper Bushing
FC Trailing Arm Front Bushing spherical bearing conversion
Thanks in advance
trailing arm upper bushing basically eliminates the top spherical bearing since there's no longer any movement at that point with the toe eliminator bushings installed.
fc trailing arm front bushing conversion basically just eliminates the sloppy front bushing as riggs mentioned... you can also lock it out to the full rear position when using the toe links, which will increase the wheel base a bit which slightly helps stabilize rotation of the car in drift.
The toe eliminator (usually referred to as DTSS eliminators) get rid of the passive rear wheel steering.
the other two (I think you're using two names for the same part actually) just limit the travel of the trailing arm to a vertical swinging motion instead of a rubber bushing that over time gets sloppy. Taking the slop out means a more tunable and predictable suspension.
the other two (I think you're using two names for the same part actually) just limit the travel of the trailing arm to a vertical swinging motion instead of a rubber bushing that over time gets sloppy. Taking the slop out means a more tunable and predictable suspension.