The OFFICIAL drift setup thread
12-10-09, 07:44 PM
#27
Suspension:
Tein Type Flex Coilovers (6k/5k)
SuperNow Adjustable Sublink
Eyecandy Tie Rods
Front and Rear Strut Bars
Racing Beat DTSS Eliminators
Brakes:
Hawk Pads
Stock everything else.
Engine and Trans:
Stock Port N/A
Cone Filter
Apexi Cat back
(Currently getting the Tranny overhauled but will have)
Racing Beat Street/Strip Clutch and lightened Flywheel, aluminum I think
Wheel and tire:
17x8 + 35 in the front. Stock 17" 350z wheels for burn offs.
I'm gonna look into those AWR Adjusters for next year. And maybe a set of 8k springs in the front and move the 6k to the back. Will this cause too much stress on the rest of the coilover, since it didn't come with the 8s? I had read somewhere that 2k + or - was ok and wouldn't wear them out too much. Any truth to that?
Tein Type Flex Coilovers (6k/5k)
SuperNow Adjustable Sublink
Eyecandy Tie Rods
Front and Rear Strut Bars
Racing Beat DTSS Eliminators
Brakes:
Hawk Pads
Stock everything else.
Engine and Trans:
Stock Port N/A
Cone Filter
Apexi Cat back
(Currently getting the Tranny overhauled but will have)
Racing Beat Street/Strip Clutch and lightened Flywheel, aluminum I think
Wheel and tire:
17x8 + 35 in the front. Stock 17" 350z wheels for burn offs.
I'm gonna look into those AWR Adjusters for next year. And maybe a set of 8k springs in the front and move the 6k to the back. Will this cause too much stress on the rest of the coilover, since it didn't come with the 8s? I had read somewhere that 2k + or - was ok and wouldn't wear them out too much. Any truth to that?
12-10-09, 07:53 PM
#28
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I'm gonna look into those AWR Adjusters for next year. And maybe a set of 8k springs in the front and move the 6k to the back. Will this cause too much stress on the rest of the coilover, since it didn't come with the 8s? I had read somewhere that 2k + or - was ok and wouldn't wear them out too much. Any truth to that?
I'd look into SWIFT springs, if you are buying aftermarket springs. They are very linear, and if you are going to be taking the time, then it's worth it to get the best parts available.
12-10-09, 08:09 PM
#30
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well, here is a million dollar question...
for those that do daily drive the car, and drift as much as you can in the same car... what would be a useable suspension setup, and at the same time is it functional in real world conditions driving it to and from the track, even in rain?
for those that do daily drive the car, and drift as much as you can in the same car... what would be a useable suspension setup, and at the same time is it functional in real world conditions driving it to and from the track, even in rain?
12-10-09, 08:12 PM
#31
You'll be fine with an increased springrate. As long as you feel that it is what you need to make the car perform better. The FLEX coilovers, are more of a street/weekend track coilover set up, so that is probably why they ran a slightly softer rate on them. The HE/DriftSpecs come with 8/6 I believe, which is just about right.
I'd look into SWIFT springs, if you are buying aftermarket springs. They are very linear, and if you are going to be taking the time, then it's worth it to get the best parts available.
I'd look into SWIFT springs, if you are buying aftermarket springs. They are very linear, and if you are going to be taking the time, then it's worth it to get the best parts available.
I was just going to go with Teins, I think they're like 50$ for a pair.
12-10-09, 08:22 PM
#32
well for special camber modification you'll need to grind out the upper spindle mount hole on the coilover collar to drop the spindle in towards the coilover giving you more camber... but for SUPER SPECIAL camber mod you'll have to ask DaveEdge...
12-10-09, 08:44 PM
#34
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Haha thats some NASA stuff right there!
12-10-09, 08:50 PM
#36
I already broke like 4 stub shafts and one halfshaft.. Sometimes when you break the stubshaft, the diff is not reuseable because the other piece of stub shaft wil be jammed for good inside..
Exampllee:
Doing this gangster Standstill burnout with 255/40/18s with na rearend
then the result will be
I want a t2 rearend already. Im just going to do what I did with a blown corolla gts lsd. Gutt the clutch type lsd and weld it.. Therefore a welded t2 diff.. Then eventually if I have moneys, go 1.5 way so I can get more speed..
12-10-09, 08:57 PM
#38
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Congratulations on the new Moderator gig Justin, very well deserved! ....Man you have come a long way in such a short time! Anyways great idea starting this thread, it is inspiring to see guys with your caliber of driving helping out all of the privateer community. Justin is defienetly one of the best grassroots drifters and amazingly enough he has done it time and time again with a FC3S, very inspiring to say the least!
12-11-09, 01:58 AM
#40
well, here is a million dollar question...
for those that do daily drive the car, and drift as much as you can in the same car... what would be a useable suspension setup, and at the same time is it functional in real world conditions driving it to and from the track, even in rain?
for those that do daily drive the car, and drift as much as you can in the same car... what would be a useable suspension setup, and at the same time is it functional in real world conditions driving it to and from the track, even in rain?
12-11-09, 03:23 AM
#41
\\TRASHTALK//
Suspension:
Ksport Slide Kontrolls 12kg spring rate front and rear
Ksport S13 Tie Rod Ends
Ceasars Angle Mod
No sway bars
Super Gangsta Camber mod Front. Rears are at zero
Lil bit of toe in rear
Stock Brakes
Engine:
S4 T2
Haltech e6k
550/720cc
Wheels/Tires:
225/40/18x9.5 -27
275/35/18x12 -3
need more power. other than that the car feels great.
12-11-09, 03:26 AM
#42
Nice, I'll PM Davedge about that soon and maybe a tattoo when we're back in Cali sometime
Stock 13BT with all OEM internals
TD06-20G@7 psi for now
720/1000 - WOLF 3D V4+ ECU
Stance AL+ Pro 9/7
Front sway, No rear sway
FEED DTSS removal bushings
MMR Diff mounts, sub frame collars
Tomei Trax 2 Way
Hawk HP+ and S/S lines
Stock Angle ಠ_ಠ
Stock 13BT with all OEM internals
TD06-20G@7 psi for now
720/1000 - WOLF 3D V4+ ECU
Stance AL+ Pro 9/7
Front sway, No rear sway
FEED DTSS removal bushings
MMR Diff mounts, sub frame collars
Tomei Trax 2 Way
Hawk HP+ and S/S lines
Stock Angle ಠ_ಠ
12-11-09, 07:10 AM
#43
I want the clutch type lsd for the purpose of gutting the internals of the lsd, so I can weld the diff. I did this on the ae86 and it worked great. gutted out the clutch plates and everything inside the diff, and just welded where the stub axles housing to the diff casing. Imagine a welded t2 diff. No more fear..
12-11-09, 10:04 AM
#45
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I would only recommend that you consider what others have done, that have been successful, and have REAL knowledge and experience, but don't take it as THE ONLY/THE BEST setup. That, you will have to find out on your own.
For example, if someone came in here saying that they were thinking of buying a ACT clutch setup... I'd say that is a bad idea, because I have had that setup, and it was ******* terrible. Maybe it works for someone else though, that has a unusually sized left leg, and clutch release forks made out of adamantium.
Ya dig?
12-11-09, 11:27 AM
#46
For a mixed use track/daily car you can't really get too specific I think. Just a healthy amount of camber front and rear, zero toe everywhere, keep your sways on, and run some coilovers that don't suck. A general "sporty" setup will be OK for everything, but it seems to me like the more you try to make your car really good at one thing (say drift competition), the more it's gonna be kinda bad for another thing (say going to the grocery store, running canyons, or street drifting).
That's kinda why I say what I say, but that's just my opinion.
That's kinda why I say what I say, but that's just my opinion.
12-11-09, 01:20 PM
#48
I want the clutch type lsd for the purpose of gutting the internals of the lsd, so I can weld the diff. I did this on the ae86 and it worked great. gutted out the clutch plates and everything inside the diff, and just welded where the stub axles housing to the diff casing. Imagine a welded t2 diff. No more fear..
12-11-09, 01:34 PM
#49
I heard you can run both
Bashing the floor pan will get you more camber with the single adjuster bar.
It seems the indiv. adjuster are the way to go, more accurate and precise.
Anyone have any luck with running both, that can chime in?
Bashing the floor pan will get you more camber with the single adjuster bar.
It seems the indiv. adjuster are the way to go, more accurate and precise.
Anyone have any luck with running both, that can chime in?
12-11-09, 06:08 PM
#50
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That is purely up to the person driving the car. We can put on the table the way we each set up our individual cars, but one is not necessarily "better" for all drivers/tracks/conditions.
I would only recommend that you consider what others have done, that have been successful, and have REAL knowledge and experience, but don't take it as THE ONLY/THE BEST setup. That, you will have to find out on your own.
For example, if someone came in here saying that they were thinking of buying a ACT clutch setup... I'd say that is a bad idea, because I have had that setup, and it was ******* terrible. Maybe it works for someone else though, that has a unusually sized left leg, and clutch release forks made out of adamantium.
Ya dig?
I would only recommend that you consider what others have done, that have been successful, and have REAL knowledge and experience, but don't take it as THE ONLY/THE BEST setup. That, you will have to find out on your own.
For example, if someone came in here saying that they were thinking of buying a ACT clutch setup... I'd say that is a bad idea, because I have had that setup, and it was ******* terrible. Maybe it works for someone else though, that has a unusually sized left leg, and clutch release forks made out of adamantium.
Ya dig?
oh well, whatever. sorry for the confusion.