The OFFICIAL drift setup thread
12-10-09, 01:12 AM
#1
The OFFICIAL drift setup thread
Ok, so i'm starting this thread to help out my fellow Rx7 drifter brethren setup their cars and/or improve their drifting/driving style... if you have a question about your setup, build, driving style, technique post here!!
now keep in mind the better your are at being specific with your question the better chance i have for answering your question.
also, if others have input on questions, please feel free to post your experiences/input!
Let me start in posting my setup...
Suspension:
DG-5 coilovers with 8kg front and 6kg rear springs
GP sports super angle kit
HotLine Spindle modification with special camber modification (total steering angle is 55 degree's and total camber is 4.5deg neg
battle version toe links in the rear
mazdaspeed camber adjusters
mazdaspeed center camber adjuster
mazdaspeed dtts eliminator kit
energy suspension bushing kit
0 toe front 3/8 toe in rear
Brakes:
stock!!!
SS brake lines
pbr pads
hand brake--- STOCK!!
Engine:
street port s5 13b-t
1000cc pri and sec inj
Haltech e8
Borg Warner s300 series turbo
v-mount
setrab 635 dual oil coolers
aeromotive tsunami fuel pump/aeromotive fpr
HotLine fuel surge tank
all -6 fuel lines
Drivetrain:
OS-Giken twin disc clutch
OS-Giken super lock lsd
stock t2 trans/driveshaft/axles
Mazdaspeed hard rubber diff mounts, transmission mounts and motor mounts
Wheel/tire:
Volk TE-37's
17x9.5-18 front 18x10.5-5 rear
Falken RT-615K
235/40/17 265/35/18
and finally... here's the build process of my FC from 2005-present... you gotta start somewhere....
now keep in mind the better your are at being specific with your question the better chance i have for answering your question.
also, if others have input on questions, please feel free to post your experiences/input!
Let me start in posting my setup...
Suspension:
DG-5 coilovers with 8kg front and 6kg rear springs
GP sports super angle kit
HotLine Spindle modification with special camber modification (total steering angle is 55 degree's and total camber is 4.5deg neg
battle version toe links in the rear
mazdaspeed camber adjusters
mazdaspeed center camber adjuster
mazdaspeed dtts eliminator kit
energy suspension bushing kit
0 toe front 3/8 toe in rear
Brakes:
stock!!!
SS brake lines
pbr pads
hand brake--- STOCK!!
Engine:
street port s5 13b-t
1000cc pri and sec inj
Haltech e8
Borg Warner s300 series turbo
v-mount
setrab 635 dual oil coolers
aeromotive tsunami fuel pump/aeromotive fpr
HotLine fuel surge tank
all -6 fuel lines
Drivetrain:
OS-Giken twin disc clutch
OS-Giken super lock lsd
stock t2 trans/driveshaft/axles
Mazdaspeed hard rubber diff mounts, transmission mounts and motor mounts
Wheel/tire:
Volk TE-37's
17x9.5-18 front 18x10.5-5 rear
Falken RT-615K
235/40/17 265/35/18
and finally... here's the build process of my FC from 2005-present... you gotta start somewhere....
Last edited by J.T.P.; 12-22-10 at 02:55 PM.
12-10-09, 05:38 AM
#3
Veryy nice setup JTP!
So for your front, you are running -4.5 camber? Mine is maxing out at 3.5 after shaving down the camber plates. Time to do the moar front camber mod you showed me a while back.. I Still need the rear individual camber links.. I need that zero rear camber!
Engine build in the process right now for more power..
Oh and congrats on becoming the new moderator!
So for your front, you are running -4.5 camber? Mine is maxing out at 3.5 after shaving down the camber plates. Time to do the moar front camber mod you showed me a while back.. I Still need the rear individual camber links.. I need that zero rear camber!
Engine build in the process right now for more power..
Oh and congrats on becoming the new moderator!
12-10-09, 08:34 AM
#4
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Suspension:
Stance AL+ plus coilovers with 9kg front and 7kg rear springs
Scottie's knuckles
K-Sport S-13 tie rod ends modded to work on the FC
MMR diff and subframe bushings
awr ind camber adjusters
craptastic center camber adjuster
seam welded the rear sub and solid mounted diff.
Os Giken 1.5way
Brakes:
stock!!! lol
SS brake lines
stock pads
hand brake--- STOCK!!
^^^^ same as JTP -might go hydro
Engine:
2005 LS2 from a GTO
LS6 intake manifold and TB
Stock GM ECU with HP Tuners
BFR (big ******* radiator)
Earl's oil and PS cooler
Walboro 255 inline pump
aeromotive 100micron filter/aeromotive fpr
Sumped tank
-8 fuel feed
Tex racing T-101 4speed dogbox
RPS ultralite clutch/FW combo
Wheel/tire:
right now RPF1 17x8 ( I know weak) and 17x10 +18
Here is the donar car:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4oH7iq6_oU
LS2 and stuffs going in now...
Stance AL+ plus coilovers with 9kg front and 7kg rear springs
Scottie's knuckles
K-Sport S-13 tie rod ends modded to work on the FC
MMR diff and subframe bushings
awr ind camber adjusters
craptastic center camber adjuster
seam welded the rear sub and solid mounted diff.
Os Giken 1.5way
Brakes:
stock!!! lol
SS brake lines
stock pads
hand brake--- STOCK!!
^^^^ same as JTP -might go hydro
Engine:
2005 LS2 from a GTO
LS6 intake manifold and TB
Stock GM ECU with HP Tuners
BFR (big ******* radiator)
Earl's oil and PS cooler
Walboro 255 inline pump
aeromotive 100micron filter/aeromotive fpr
Sumped tank
-8 fuel feed
Tex racing T-101 4speed dogbox
RPS ultralite clutch/FW combo
Wheel/tire:
right now RPF1 17x8 ( I know weak) and 17x10 +18
Here is the donar car:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4oH7iq6_oU
LS2 and stuffs going in now...
12-10-09, 10:58 AM
#5
let me ask you this... what's your reasoning for wanting a hydro hand brake?
Last edited by J.T.P.; 12-10-09 at 11:01 AM.
12-10-09, 10:58 AM
#6
Veryy nice setup JTP!
So for your front, you are running -4.5 camber? Mine is maxing out at 3.5 after shaving down the camber plates. Time to do the moar front camber mod you showed me a while back.. I Still need the rear individual camber links.. I need that zero rear camber!
Engine build in the process right now for more power..
Oh and congrats on becoming the new moderator!
So for your front, you are running -4.5 camber? Mine is maxing out at 3.5 after shaving down the camber plates. Time to do the moar front camber mod you showed me a while back.. I Still need the rear individual camber links.. I need that zero rear camber!
Engine build in the process right now for more power..
Oh and congrats on becoming the new moderator!
sunburn, i don't mean to use this pic as an example, but it's the most convenient pic to compare to..
notice how much "flop" the front wheel has "at" angle... i would suggest adding more static negative camber to correct this. There is other ways of going about it, namely adjusting caster, but stock caster works just fine with other corrections in alignment settings.
Last edited by J.T.P.; 12-10-09 at 11:07 AM.
12-10-09, 11:02 AM
#7
That is soooooooo much angle. I am jealous, haha.
What contributes to your ability to have good rear traction? Lots of toe in, zero rear camber, soft rear springs, and a properly set up pinion angle? Is there anything else? Not that I need rear grip... I'm just curious.
What contributes to your ability to have good rear traction? Lots of toe in, zero rear camber, soft rear springs, and a properly set up pinion angle? Is there anything else? Not that I need rear grip... I'm just curious.
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12-10-09, 11:16 AM
#8
too much toe in will make the car unstable at angle, wanting to make it go straight very easily off gas.
close to zero rear camber and somewhat large tires adds to it, obviously putting down more rubber to the pavement will always give more traction.
pinion angle is important, but not as much as basic alignment settings, or at least you shouldn't be worried about it, since that can also cause some other issues if not set right.
fairly soft springs and soft suspension settings in the rear also aid to making the rear sit and grabbing traction.
the "myth" of making the car stiff to drift definitely isn't correct, well not it my book... i like to have the rear suspension move and work to get grip, this also promotes more throttle input during drift, which is always exciting.
and one final note... try taking off your sway bars... but only at the track you need them for daily driving... otherwise things can get loose at higher speeds..
12-10-09, 11:20 AM
#9
Mother****ing Wow
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don't do it!! as long as stock is working well ( and if not, make it work well) leave it.. i guess in the end it's up to you, but FC hand brakes should work just fine as long as you're input thru the steering wheel is aggressive enough to initiate the drift.
let me ask you this... what's your reasoning for wanting a hydro hand brake?
let me ask you this... what's your reasoning for wanting a hydro hand brake?
I need camber and caster in the front bad. In that pic above I have my camber settings maxed negative.
12-10-09, 11:29 AM
#11
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12-10-09, 12:45 PM
#13
you're pretty much on the money.. everything you mentioned adds to rear traction, but the right amount of everything, not too much, not too little.
too much toe in will make the car unstable at angle, wanting to make it go straight very easily off gas.
close to zero rear camber and somewhat large tires adds to it, obviously putting down more rubber to the pavement will always give more traction.
pinion angle is important, but not as much as basic alignment settings, or at least you shouldn't be worried about it, since that can also cause some other issues if not set right.
fairly soft springs and soft suspension settings in the rear also aid to making the rear sit and grabbing traction.
the "myth" of making the car stiff to drift definitely isn't correct, well not it my book... i like to have the rear suspension move and work to get grip, this also promotes more throttle input during drift, which is always exciting.
and one final note... try taking off your sway bars... but only at the track you need them for daily driving... otherwise things can get loose at higher speeds..
too much toe in will make the car unstable at angle, wanting to make it go straight very easily off gas.
close to zero rear camber and somewhat large tires adds to it, obviously putting down more rubber to the pavement will always give more traction.
pinion angle is important, but not as much as basic alignment settings, or at least you shouldn't be worried about it, since that can also cause some other issues if not set right.
fairly soft springs and soft suspension settings in the rear also aid to making the rear sit and grabbing traction.
the "myth" of making the car stiff to drift definitely isn't correct, well not it my book... i like to have the rear suspension move and work to get grip, this also promotes more throttle input during drift, which is always exciting.
and one final note... try taking off your sway bars... but only at the track you need them for daily driving... otherwise things can get loose at higher speeds..
Since I daily the car, I've always run pretty factory stuff.
-3 front camber, -3 rear camber, random pinion angle, zero toe all around. I always run sway bars too. I will try a setup closer to your next season, if I can afford the engine change like I hope to. Otherwise it's 215 front 205 rear with 70psi in them again for next year.
12-10-09, 01:05 PM
#14
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12-10-09, 02:51 PM
#15
Awesome thread. Its good to see somebody who really knows drift set up make one.
My FC is -3ish front camber, ~0 rear camber
Toe- i have no idea.
Stance GR+ medium stiff in front and about 3 clicks from full soft in the rear
no swaybars- awesome and simple
JTP knuckles- magic
ATS Deftforce LSD
I love the **** out of my car, its got loads of grip and angle and its super predictable and consistent. I deff have justin to thank for why my car is so fun to drive now.
My FC is -3ish front camber, ~0 rear camber
Toe- i have no idea.
Stance GR+ medium stiff in front and about 3 clicks from full soft in the rear
no swaybars- awesome and simple
JTP knuckles- magic
ATS Deftforce LSD
I love the **** out of my car, its got loads of grip and angle and its super predictable and consistent. I deff have justin to thank for why my car is so fun to drive now.
12-10-09, 03:00 PM
#16
Since I daily the car, I've always run pretty factory stuff.
-3 front camber, -3 rear camber, random pinion angle, zero toe all around. I always run sway bars too. I will try a setup closer to your next season, if I can afford the engine change like I hope to. Otherwise it's 215 front 205 rear with 70psi in them again for next year.
-3 front camber, -3 rear camber, random pinion angle, zero toe all around. I always run sway bars too. I will try a setup closer to your next season, if I can afford the engine change like I hope to. Otherwise it's 215 front 205 rear with 70psi in them again for next year.
Awesome thread. Its good to see somebody who really knows drift set up make one.
My FC is -3ish front camber, ~0 rear camber
Toe- i have no idea.
Stance GR+ medium stiff in front and about 3 clicks from full soft in the rear
no swaybars- awesome and simple
JTP knuckles- magic
ATS Deftforce LSD
I love the **** out of my car, its got loads of grip and angle and its super predictable and consistent. I deff have justin to thank for why my car is so fun to drive now.
My FC is -3ish front camber, ~0 rear camber
Toe- i have no idea.
Stance GR+ medium stiff in front and about 3 clicks from full soft in the rear
no swaybars- awesome and simple
JTP knuckles- magic
ATS Deftforce LSD
I love the **** out of my car, its got loads of grip and angle and its super predictable and consistent. I deff have justin to thank for why my car is so fun to drive now.
i chose to run mazdaspeed hard rubber diff mounts, trans mount and motor mounts... i like some give for hard clutch kicks, shifts, etc...
12-10-09, 03:07 PM
#17
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Hey Dudes.
This is what I'm doin...
Suspension:
DG-5 coilovers with 8kg front and 6kg rear springs
GP sports super angle kit
Aurora Sperical rod ends
Toyota Elec. Powersteering pump
Spindle modification with SUPER SPECIAL camber modification
Poly control arm bushings front
AWR toe links in the rear
AWR Indv. camber adjusters
Alum. Diff mounts
Alum. Subframe mounts
Reinforced subframe pickup points
AWR Spherical Trailing arm sleeve/bearing
NO REAR SWAY BAR
Mazdacomp diff mount
STOCK center camber adjuster
mazdaspeed dtts eliminator kit
0 toe front 1/16th toe in rear
Brakes:
Powerslot rotors
SS brake lines
HAWK pads
hand brake--- STOCK!!
Engine:
13B-RE
1000cc pri and sec inj
Haltech e8
LS1 Ign. coils
World Elec. Boost Controller
Borg Warner s366 series turbo(T3 Flange)
Greddy 48mm W/G External dumped
Tubular Large runner mani
v-mount
STOCK oil cooler w/ -10 Lines
Oil pedestal(to mount Oil Pres./Oil temp senders)
aeromotive A1000 Pump/FPR
ATL 10 Gal. Fuel cell
all -6 fuel lines(rails run in parallel)
KG parts Fuel rails (modified to fit 1000 cc Denso inj)
Pineapple racing Oil Pan w/ baffles pickup surround(modified to fit RE)
Mazda comp OPR
Mazda Comp Serpentine(ribbed) belt conversion
Banzai RE mounts
Drivetrain:
Exedy Hyper Single Clutch
Kazz 1.5 way LSD
stock t2 trans
C's Short shifter(meh)
Driveshaft Shop Axles
Chassis:
TIP Engineering cage
Stitchwelded front strut towers
Wheel/tire:
Volk TE-37's
17x9.5-8 front 18x10.5-12 rear(spacers)
235-40-17 front, 245/55-18 rear tires
This is what I'm doin...
Suspension:
DG-5 coilovers with 8kg front and 6kg rear springs
GP sports super angle kit
Aurora Sperical rod ends
Toyota Elec. Powersteering pump
Spindle modification with SUPER SPECIAL camber modification
Poly control arm bushings front
AWR toe links in the rear
AWR Indv. camber adjusters
Alum. Diff mounts
Alum. Subframe mounts
Reinforced subframe pickup points
AWR Spherical Trailing arm sleeve/bearing
NO REAR SWAY BAR
Mazdacomp diff mount
STOCK center camber adjuster
mazdaspeed dtts eliminator kit
0 toe front 1/16th toe in rear
Brakes:
Powerslot rotors
SS brake lines
HAWK pads
hand brake--- STOCK!!
Engine:
13B-RE
1000cc pri and sec inj
Haltech e8
LS1 Ign. coils
World Elec. Boost Controller
Borg Warner s366 series turbo(T3 Flange)
Greddy 48mm W/G External dumped
Tubular Large runner mani
v-mount
STOCK oil cooler w/ -10 Lines
Oil pedestal(to mount Oil Pres./Oil temp senders)
aeromotive A1000 Pump/FPR
ATL 10 Gal. Fuel cell
all -6 fuel lines(rails run in parallel)
KG parts Fuel rails (modified to fit 1000 cc Denso inj)
Pineapple racing Oil Pan w/ baffles pickup surround(modified to fit RE)
Mazda comp OPR
Mazda Comp Serpentine(ribbed) belt conversion
Banzai RE mounts
Drivetrain:
Exedy Hyper Single Clutch
Kazz 1.5 way LSD
stock t2 trans
C's Short shifter(meh)
Driveshaft Shop Axles
Chassis:
TIP Engineering cage
Stitchwelded front strut towers
Wheel/tire:
Volk TE-37's
17x9.5-8 front 18x10.5-12 rear(spacers)
235-40-17 front, 245/55-18 rear tires
12-10-09, 03:22 PM
#18
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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Suspension:
Front
BC Coilovers 10kg Springs
Stock swaybar
Custom Shortened spindles
MMR Delrin Control arm bushes
Rear
BC Coilovers 8kg Springs
No swaybar
Shortened stock camber links
Custom adjustable toe rods (eccentric bolt welded)
MMR rear diff mounts
Welded solid front diff mount
DTSS Elim
Adjsutable single camber link
Brakes:
RE Amemiya Front
Stock Rear
Hydro Handbrake
Engine:
1JZGTE
Intake
Exhaust
280rwhp
Drivetrain:
Locked diff
Heavy single plate clutch
W55
Solid engine and gearbox mounts
Chassis:
6 Point weld in cage
Front cusco strut brace
Wheels:
Sparco NTR 17x9 + 10 Front
Sparco NTR 17x9 + 0 Rear
Front
BC Coilovers 10kg Springs
Stock swaybar
Custom Shortened spindles
MMR Delrin Control arm bushes
Rear
BC Coilovers 8kg Springs
No swaybar
Shortened stock camber links
Custom adjustable toe rods (eccentric bolt welded)
MMR rear diff mounts
Welded solid front diff mount
DTSS Elim
Adjsutable single camber link
Brakes:
RE Amemiya Front
Stock Rear
Hydro Handbrake
Engine:
1JZGTE
Intake
Exhaust
280rwhp
Drivetrain:
Locked diff
Heavy single plate clutch
W55
Solid engine and gearbox mounts
Chassis:
6 Point weld in cage
Front cusco strut brace
Wheels:
Sparco NTR 17x9 + 10 Front
Sparco NTR 17x9 + 0 Rear
12-10-09, 03:33 PM
#19
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you're pretty much on the money.. everything you mentioned adds to rear traction, but the right amount of everything, not too much, not too little.
too much toe in will make the car unstable at angle, wanting to make it go straight very easily off gas.
close to zero rear camber and somewhat large tires adds to it, obviously putting down more rubber to the pavement will always give more traction.
pinion angle is important, but not as much as basic alignment settings, or at least you shouldn't be worried about it, since that can also cause some other issues if not set right.
fairly soft springs and soft suspension settings in the rear also aid to making the rear sit and grabbing traction.
the "myth" of making the car stiff to drift definitely isn't correct, well not it my book... i like to have the rear suspension move and work to get grip, this also promotes more throttle input during drift, which is always exciting.
and one final note... try taking off your sway bars... but only at the track you need them for daily driving... otherwise things can get loose at higher speeds..
too much toe in will make the car unstable at angle, wanting to make it go straight very easily off gas.
close to zero rear camber and somewhat large tires adds to it, obviously putting down more rubber to the pavement will always give more traction.
pinion angle is important, but not as much as basic alignment settings, or at least you shouldn't be worried about it, since that can also cause some other issues if not set right.
fairly soft springs and soft suspension settings in the rear also aid to making the rear sit and grabbing traction.
the "myth" of making the car stiff to drift definitely isn't correct, well not it my book... i like to have the rear suspension move and work to get grip, this also promotes more throttle input during drift, which is always exciting.
and one final note... try taking off your sway bars... but only at the track you need them for daily driving... otherwise things can get loose at higher speeds..
With my car I picked up a tonne of rear traction going from 6kg to 8kg (no sway bar) maybe to do with too much camber gain when it was softer? or perhaps I had too much camber to begin with (2 degrees). Was night and day. 1.5mm toe in helped too.
12-10-09, 03:35 PM
#20
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this thread is awsome.... definitely something that is needed.
my setup is jic flt-a2's 8k f 7k r.
dont know my camber, but the rear is more than the front.
stock brakes ss lines, hawk blue front pads hawk hp+ rear pads. slotted rotors.
i used to have a hell of a time on transitions, and this is making more sense now that i am reading more of you guys setups.
honestly, i know i am about to sound like a dork.. but i am about to try these setups on turismo right now... with the steering wheel that is.
my setup is jic flt-a2's 8k f 7k r.
dont know my camber, but the rear is more than the front.
stock brakes ss lines, hawk blue front pads hawk hp+ rear pads. slotted rotors.
i used to have a hell of a time on transitions, and this is making more sense now that i am reading more of you guys setups.
honestly, i know i am about to sound like a dork.. but i am about to try these setups on turismo right now... with the steering wheel that is.
12-10-09, 03:53 PM
#21
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The camber could also come into play...
12-10-09, 03:58 PM
#22
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Thats a really good point!, probaly was bottoming out, never really checked but it was pretty unpredictable at times. Something to look at for other dudes with low cars and 6kg no sway bar!
12-10-09, 04:49 PM
#24
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To be honest dude, not sure. Its all turbo stuff. I just found a diff that was local and open head. I think some of our turbo 5 speed came open head. But all our turbo auto's are LSD. Kinda Weird.