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Limit Reading Result
HC ppm 64 383 FAIL
CO % 0.35 7.88 FAIL
NO ppm 0727 63 PASS
RPM 6042 BYPASS
Dilution 17.98 VALID
Limit Reading Result
HC ppm 200 128 PASS
CO% 1 0.10 PASS
NO ppm na na na
RPM 2359 BYPASS
Dilution 15.00 VALID
So I passed the curb idle, but failed the 40km/h emissions test. High HC, high CO, and low NO: rich air-fuel ratio. Any suggestions apart from a new O2 sensor?
Anyway, I'd like to draw your attention to the rediculous rpm readings. wth? At the time, my less than perfect idle was around 1200. I went back for a re-test after setting my TPS (now she idles beautifully) and asked to observe the process. They use some sort of inductive sensor that sits on the hood and couldn't get a reading to "calibrate". Eventually he switched to a sensor that grips the spark lines that did get readings, but they were crazy (3000+ at ilde). He tried all sorts of fiddling and combinations of lines, eventually managed to find the idle rpm (~750). When he accelerated the readings were way too high settling at 6000rpm for 40km/h. Looking over his shoulder I could see the tach reading 3500 rpm.
Turns out that even by bypassing the rpm sensor the test timed out, I got no results and didn't have to pay. Does anyone have a magic combination of ignition system setting and RPM sensor placement? I just want to stop getting tickets for expired stickers. Available options for the ignition system are: 2 cycle, 4 cycle, quad 4, and distributorless. The mechanic originally had it at 2 cycle, then switched to distributorless where he got the idle readings...
Has anyone else even seen this problem before? I've seen members' etest results with correct rpm readings, and havnt found anything like this in the archives.
Clamp an inductive probe to one of the leading wires, and have it set to 4 cylinder. It's not rocket science and this guy should be jobless for not knowing. I own stock in Canadian Tire and am now embarrassed that someone employed by "my" company is so stupid. All he needed to do was check the manual.
As for the readings, I assume the car is in good tune with a good set of spark plugs? If so, then test the ACV valve, make sure it is running in closed loop, or if all else fails, replace the cat. Those HC readings make me thing that it's simply in poor tune (injectors, plugs, CLT) or that the ACV isn't working.
Without a proper RPM reading the test is invalid anyway.