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Old 10-18-14, 10:26 PM
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The "you better not part it out thread"---88 T2

Hello All!

It has been a while since I last started a build thread.

As some may know, I have had many 2nd Gen. Rx7s.

I started with my 87 Base Rx7...Then bought a 90 GTU....Then a 89 GXL...Then a 87 T2...Then a 90 No. 9 manufactured...I think that's all the Fc

Oh and of course my 93 FD



Needless to say I stripped and parted the bulk of the Fc3s'.... (less the FD).


Well about three weeks ago I was going to make a trip out to Wisconsin to check out a 88 T2.

Some things came up and I couldn't make the 6 hour round-trip to pick it up.

Time went on and I somehow managed to lose not only the craiglist add due to expiration, but the person's contact information as I changed over to a new phone.

Until last week (week of October 12, 2014).

Well...I started talking to the guy again and he said he thought I did not want it anymore. I basically told him my sob story and then said I will have break from law school in a week so I will come out then.

So I called up a buddy of mine and said get ready for Friday because we're going to get the T2.

Friday came (10/17/14) and we started the three hour trip there.

We finally get to where the T2 is at and, as expected, it looks in a little worse condition than described.


Through conversation with its owner I came to learn the car was sitting for 7 years in a storage unit in Washington. The guy bought it and brought it to Wisconsin, but it wouldn't start when it got there so it sat again for another year.

So as my buddy and I start to get worried we figure screw it...lets try and start it.

At first it doesn't start. The batter that was supposedly charged wasn't.

Thankfully we had spares.

So its owner goes to start it up....and while trying to turn it over pumps the gas!

My buddy yells...STOP....DON'T Pump the gas! (it probably caught him off guard)

So the guy gets out and says "Oh I didn't know, you guys want to try?"

So my buddy says Nick you go in and lets get this thing running.

He removes the EFI fuse, I push the gas completely down and attempt to start for 2/3 seconds.

Then I stop, my buddy puts the EFI fuse back in and I start it up......


As it starts to run...it pours out a massive amount of white smoke...

So we let it warm up and see how warm this FC will get....

Surprisingly it stayed under half on the temp gauge.


Well I shut off the car then say to the guy before we talk price I'd like to get the compression checked on it.

So we go to get the tools and yeah....totally didn't bring the correct plug socket



Long story short, lets just say it was worth the trip....

Here she is when we stopped at the Harbor Freight to get "safety parts" in Wisconsin






And when we got her home at about Midnight



......
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Old 10-18-14, 10:40 PM
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And now earlier this morning in the light






SO anyways......

I decided to top off the radiator fluid and I pour some in the radiator and then it starts to leak out of the bottom of the water pump

Thankfully I have an abundance water pumps laying around I can change, which I will be doing tomorrow when I finish my homework.

SOOOOOOOOO.....


Well early this afternoon my buddy stops by again and says something to the extent of [well are you ready? lol]

I say...well this might be part of the coolant problem. He then says well why would it be shooting out that much white smoke? I said, but you remember when I drove it up my driveway last night there wasn't white smoke coming out....He said oh yea I forgot....



Now the moment most people are curious about....Compression.....

This is on cold start now mind you....

He removes a plug....sets up everything for the first test....

I turn the Key.....He says huh...110 PSI....

I was like dang seriously....he said yeah, but now we need to check the rear housing...

I then said...crap.......

However, he then proceeds to say....Oh nvm it was the rear ahhaha....


So he changes it to the front housing.....I crank it over....He says....oh...dang....well...its not that good.....


I start to worry.....Then he smiled and said....yeah its only 105+ PSI....


Phew



So far the only thing I have done to it is vacuum the car and then I swapped the T2 rims (which are for sale if anyone is interest) for my BBS RYSII (17x8 & 17x9 +40mm)


I truly think these look really nice on the T2.


Well this will be a slow build thread as dealing with kids and law school keeps me away from my cars, but nonetheless I will keep updating as I get things done to her....


Should be a fun ride guys/gals....Stay tuned!


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Old 10-19-14, 10:41 AM
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in before the part out!
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Old 10-19-14, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by archaphil
in before the part out!


Only a matter of time huh?


I just realized I put a lot of "he said, I said, then said" lol
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Old 10-20-14, 11:05 AM
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Small update...

Changed out the water pump and coolant. She runs ok considering the history of her.

I will post some videos up when I get back home.

For now just a pic.


The "you better not part it out thread"---88 T2-image-2339471452.jpg

That is coolant on the driveway ahhahaha it is clean now :p
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Old 10-20-14, 06:54 PM
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Couple Videos






However, when I changed the oil today I went to start it back up and it would start, then after about 3 seconds it would almost feel like it shut completely off.

There was no throttle response or anything...Anyone have any ideas?

I would start the car...it would run...then would die within a matter of seconds like it lost signal to the motor.



AND I CANT GET THAT ANNOYING BUZZING TO STOP!!!
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Old 10-20-14, 10:29 PM
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Well as I could not keep my T2 running today () I decided to take a few pics. This morning with my FD and then this evening with my buddy's 91 N/A. One of the cleanest ones in Minnesota by far







The drainage under my buddy's car is NOT from his...It was from mine when we filled the system





Any help with my running problem would help
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Old 10-21-14, 10:59 AM
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do you have a video of it starting up then dying? Does it cut out on its own or under throttle? if the throttle doesnt save it from cutting out it sounds like the fuel pump is cutting out. Check out the FSM and have a look at the pump and associated relays
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Old 10-21-14, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ibeljin
do you have a video of it starting up then dying? Does it cut out on its own or under throttle? if the throttle doesnt save it from cutting out it sounds like the fuel pump is cutting out. Check out the FSM and have a look at the pump and associated relays
Cuts out on its own. I'll post a video up later today.
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Old 10-21-14, 05:39 PM
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you check the gas stuff like I mentioned yet? it did sit after all
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Old 10-21-14, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by archaphil
you check the gas stuff like I mentioned yet? it did sit after all
I will probably this weekend. I'm in classes all day and night until Friday .

I'm ordering my fuel filter, screen, and getting new gas.

Also ordered some block-off plates I'll put on.
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Old 10-23-14, 03:00 PM
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Small update:

Bought a new fuel filter, new gas, and fuel pump screen. Will be doing some work this weekend.

Also bought a miata thermostat, emission block off plates, and might be purchasing a different pulley setup shortly.

Will post pics up once the work has been done
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Old 10-24-14, 08:05 PM
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Small update

So as I mentioned earlier I was going to do some routine maintenance along with some random ish....

First got this in the mail:


Then started to remove the crappy job of speaker wiring the PO did


Unfortunatly the PO cut two spots in the rear bins for speakers so I will be using the ones my buddy got from an S5. They are black and I will most likely be converting my entire interior to black down the road.

SO started it off with removing the fuel pump to replace its screen


The old one was pretty crappy, but the tank was not that bad at all


Once we replaced the filter on the fuel pump we started to dissassemble the front.

I am removing the airpump and all emissions as Minnesota doesn't have emissions restrictions

More pics of the start of emissions removal




Due to light restrictions....I stopped for the night.

Stuff I got done so far:
1) Replaced fuel pump filter
2) Replaced fuel filter
3) Deleted the Airpump
4) Deleted 60% of the emissions so far.


This is what I have taken out so far...


(All emissions junk worked and is up for sale if anyone is interested )


That is all for tonight. I will take more pics tomorrow and hopefully she'll be up and running before the end of the weekend





Stay tuned
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Old 10-25-14, 05:21 PM
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If the car dies immediately after starting it is usually one of two things. It could be a large vacuum leak or it can be that the AFM fuel switch that is supposed to supply a ground signal to the circuit opening relay to allow the fuel pump to continue to allow the engine to run after the rpm has climbed above 500 rpm is problematic. Jumpering the fuel check connector would tell you if the switch is possibly defective.
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Old 10-25-14, 07:19 PM
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Well I will post pics up, but we primes the system after removing/replacing things. I have not tried to jump it yet, but I'll post a video up tomorrow. Doesn't even start now and if it does it'll die really soon and chug to the death :p
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Old 10-25-14, 07:52 PM
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So I went out and jumped the yellow plug. It did not help. Just cranks. You think it could be the clogged cats?

Its so weird. One day I went out and drove it around... Then next morning it started up fine I drove it in the garage. I went to start it up later on in the day and it would just crank over.

WTF!

Anyways, here are some more pics:











Will update as soon as I find out tomorrow...
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Old 10-25-14, 09:20 PM
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Check for the routine spark and fuel. Perhaps the primary injectors are clogged. If the exhaust was clogged you could remove the oxygen sensor as that would create a passageway for the exhaust to exit although removing the sensor can be quite difficult to do.
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Old 10-25-14, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by satch
Check for the routine spark and fuel. Perhaps the primary injectors are clogged. If the exhaust was clogged you could remove the oxygen sensor as that would create a passageway for the exhaust to exit although removing the sensor can be quite difficult to do.
Plugs were a little dirty. There is no throttle response. If it does start up and I give it some gas it doesn't seem to do anything. It'll crank, slowly turn over, then die.

I deflooded it a couple times, but I'm not going to continue to try and start it.
Don't want to screw the motor up. I'll try it out tomorrow again once I remove the exhaust.
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Old 10-25-14, 11:42 PM
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Make sure the AFM is good and also test the TPS.
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Old 10-26-14, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by satch
Make sure the AFM is good and also test the TPS.
I'll check it out. Just printing out the last of the fsm. Any pointers on how I should approach it? Also, I have a bunch of afm from n/a, but not sure if I have any left from a t2.

What is the difference between the two? Am I able to use one for a temp fix if it is the problem?
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Old 10-26-14, 12:33 PM
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I think an NA AFM would lean out some at higher rpm's so you wouldn't want to get on it but you could definitely use one just to see if it helps get the car started and idling.

The FSM (section 4A intake air system) provides a resistance test for the sensor.
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Old 10-26-14, 04:51 PM
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So I disconnected the exhaust. Didn't help. I'll upload a video when I'm back inside.

For the tps, how do I test it?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 10-26-14, 05:18 PM
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Oops double post

Last edited by Broke_A_Baller; 10-26-14 at 05:19 PM. Reason: double post
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Old 10-26-14, 05:19 PM
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As promised, the video of the "start-up" and well...you'll see


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Old 10-26-14, 05:36 PM
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You need to verify if the flapper door to the AFM is not stuck (and switch it out if need be). You could also unplug it if the fuel check connecter were jumpered just to see if the car will start and idle some before the exhaust manifold begins to glow.I doubt the TPS is peventing the car to start but to test it would read 1 volt at an idling position after warm up and when the button is depressed it would read close to 4.5 volts when the throttle linkage releases from the button and there are no spikes in the readings as they should be smooth and linear. You could always unplug the TPS to see if by chance it actually makes a difference in starting the car.

If the fuel check connector were jumpered the Blue wire in the circuit opening relay would have voltage w/key to on and the same wire connected to the fuel pump would read about the same voltage (close to 9 to 12 volts).

And again, the primary injectors might be clogged or a large vacuum leak is present.

And the air intake must be connected to the throttle body for the car to start.

Last edited by satch; 10-26-14 at 05:45 PM.
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